[Anonymous]

It isn’t much. There definitely is a little more, but not much. We didn’t have to adjust our baseline setup when we changed over to the 401.

[Rod Hawkins]

[quote quote=66391]It isn’t much. There definitely is a little more, but not much. We didn’t have to adjust our baseline setup when we changed over to the 401.

[/quote]

TJ, thank you so much for your reply. So if a standard pill provides 3 degrees of caster, you wouldn’t buy an after market set of pills that provide a 1 degree or 2 degree caster to match a 401 and EVRR? If you are at your level and didn’t adjust it, I highly doubt someone like me is going to notice a difference.

BTW, Seems like you are always willing to help people out and I have even done a search on the subject on google and the info didn’t match what I was looking for, but it was about chassis set up and on a different forum and I recognized your name as someone replying to the question. The sport needs more people like you. Thanks again!

[Rod Hawkins]

[quote quote=66391]It isn’t much. There definitely is a little more, but not much. We didn’t have to adjust our baseline setup when we changed over to the 401.

[/quote]

also, any other set up tips when comparing the 401 vs EVRR?

[Anonymous]

I don’t have 1˚ or 2˚ pills, but they can be useful. I have found that adjusting in 3˚ increments with the standard factory pills works fine for me though.

As far as setup tips for either the 401 or EVRR, take it out of the box, assemble it, and don’t touch it… for the most part. Make sure the seat is in placed per manufacturer settings and set up everything else neutral and it should at least be close in competitiveness.

We always start here:
– Flat front torsion bar
– 1 big spacer for front track width
– Neutral caster, neutral camber
– N axle
– 3rd bearing loose
– 1390mm rear track width
– 1 or 2 seat struts per side
– Loose side pods, loose rear bumper
– Medium rear hubs

Always make small adjustments. The OTK chassis is built to be very tunable and easy to find the sweet spot. Neutral baseline setup works 90% of the time if you aren’t doing national level racing.

Glad to help! It helps me learn to teach as well.

[Rod Hawkins]

[quote quote=66395]I don’t have 1˚ or 2˚ pills, but they can be useful. I have found that adjusting in 3˚ increments with the standard factory pills works fine for me though.

As far as setup tips for either the 401 or EVRR, take it out of the box, assemble it, and don’t touch it… for the most part. Make sure the seat is in placed per manufacturer settings and set up everything else neutral and it should at least be close in competitiveness.

We always start here:
– Flat front torsion bar
– 1 big spacer for front track width
– Neutral caster, neutral camber
– N axle
– 3rd bearing loose
– 1390mm rear track width
– 1 or 2 seat struts per side
– Loose side pods, loose rear bumper
– Medium rear hubs

Always make small adjustments. The OTK chassis is built to be very tunable and easy to find the sweet spot. Neutral baseline setup works 90% of the time if you aren’t doing national level racing.

Glad to help! It helps me learn to teach as well.

[/quote]

Thanks again!! it looks like my notes matches what your “baseline” is. Did you guys notice a big difference between 401 and EVRR. Just getting into OTK from Birel, any hints on how to make the brakes have a tad more “bite” (some have suggested EBC Green pads, while others say to do the larger rotor, but I am only running F100 and wt limit is 360# and the larger rotor is overkill).

[Anonymous]

We didn’t make any adjustments from our baseline on the EVRR to the 401. The kart feels slightly more front heavy from the added caster but not enough to warrant any changes from our perspective.

A softer more aggressive pad should do the trick. The OTK brakes are known to take quite a bit of force to lock them up.

[Gary Lawson]

Sto get more braking lower the pivot point on the pedal

[Author]

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