[Todd Kageals]

Alan,

I’m fairly certain that the spring are strong enough.  It’s fairly difficult to get them off and I doubt the pipe moves much at all.  The inside of the pipe looks clean but I will double check as you suggest.  The exhaust manifold groove are free from gunk but at least the last three grooves have some surface rust.  I might run it though the sand blaster to make sure it’s clean.  I’ll also try some of the high temp RTV you mentioned although I can’t even get that stuff to last back on the other end of the pipe between the pipe and the silencer.

[Todd Kageals]

Well….I don’t think that’s my problem.  I lube the O-rings every time and I use the Viton rings sold by sharkshifter who also sold me the manifold.  What about the stock manifold with the stock OEM seal?  Anyone try that?  Isn’t the stock seal a thin/wide metal ring?

[Todd Kageals]

Just thought I would post back on what we came up with.  Dad essentially made a nut like posted above but with a 3/8 square drive hole in the middle.  We chuck a short socket extension in the drill with just the Coleman clutch on the end.  We drive it with my 20v drill.  It started 2 karts through a full day of practice and a full race day and still had 2 of 3 “bars” on the battery.  It works great.  The kart was a little flooded at one point on Friday and we just spun it with the drill until it started!  Soooooo much easier than turning it by hand.  Chris….. yeah….. I’d love the on-board starter you guys have built.  However, I can’t spend the money for it  BECAUSE of all of the things you mentioned above…..lol!

[Todd Kageals]

David,

I’d LOVE to have that onboard starter but I just can’t justify the $600+!

I’ve got a Chinese gokart starter motor on the way ($20.00).  Going to do as I said above with the adapter and will report back with how it works out.  I’d use the Coleman too but those things are $250.  Let’s face it…. I’m cheap!

[Todd Kageals]

Our engines have been getting harder to start.  I wonder if we are starting to lose some compression now.  I’ll go ahead and do the piston/rings in both motors before we get started this season!

[Todd Kageals]

Josh,

I’ll admit to being a novice but I am on my 3rd season of road racing (5 races/year)+several sprint track and even some practice days and I STILL have not changed pistons/rings.  What happens when you run them too long?  I run 2 karts (my father and I).  Stock Honda CR125s.  ’99 cylinders.  I built both motors myself.  One with a used but good ’99 cylinder, the other with a brand new cylinder.  All OEM Honda stuff.  Was planning on running another season before rebuilding. :)

[Todd Kageals]

Has anyone seen the electric starter setup on the Honda motor that utilizes the kick start shaft?  there’s a shifter kart on eBay with this setup.

[Todd Kageals]

Agreed.  I was there this past weekend and had a great time.  “Pushing” was not an issue the way it was all worked out.  The track was good (except the bumps in….5?).  I too tested the grass.  Nice run off areas for those of us who are so inclined.  Will be back at the next one later in the year.  A big thanks as usual to Rodney and the guys who make it possible for us to continue to go road racing.  Avg. speed was around 80 +/- in  a shifter.  Anyone know what the top speed was on the straight?

[Todd Kageals]

Or just buy the parts and assemble it yourself.  That’s what I did.  I got the cases from ebay (a very good set is around $300).  A good gearbox is about $200.   A new cylinder/piston/crank/bearings and all associated parts for a COMPLETE rebuild ran me about $1000.00

Not sure what the kits cost but I remember them being way more than $1500.00

Todd

[Todd Kageals]

Is this still for sale?

 

[Todd Kageals]

I’m interested too.  If you could send some pictures to: toddkageals@cox.net, that would be great.

 

Thanks,

Todd

[Todd Kageals]

What an awesome product!  I assume you have to charge the battery separately.  I wonder how many starts it’s good for before needing to be recharged.  The weight is not an issue for me as I have to add lead to my kart to meet the minimum anyway.  This sure would make life easier!  $650 is up there though!!!  I’d LOVE to have it but I have gotten so good at starting my stock Honda that I don’t think I could justify $650.00.  MAYBE $400.00.  Most guys I know just spin the rear tires with their hands while the kart is on the stand and then put it on the ground.  If you stall you are SOL!  The electric start could save the entire day/session for us road racers.  Wonder if this will be legal??????

[Todd Kageals]

Actually Chris is correct here.  This silencer was sold as the one to get for places that required noise suppression.  The “tip” which is actually the entire end cap is riveted on, not bolted/screwed as it would be if it were supposed to be removable.  I bought it new and it did NOT come with a straight tip.  If it had, I would have just put it on there!   The reason I asked about the effects of just cutting it off is that I see different silencers (same ones in different lengths) being sold as ideal for short, medium and long courses.  I think I’ll just cut it off and see what happens.  I can always have a short tube welded on there if it has a negative effect on performance.

Thanks for the help.

Todd

[Todd Kageals]

Uhhh….what does one of these cost?

[Todd Kageals]

Patrick,

Which model Longacre.  I saw one on amazon but the reviews were not very good.

[Todd Kageals]

I think it is riveted together…..not screwed.  I could drill out the rivets and have the exhaust blow upwards I suppose.  I was not sure about doing that but I guess it’s not a lot different than having the exhaust blow straight out the back. 

Thanks for the advice.

[Todd Kageals]

I’ll throw in my .02.  I started last year in a shifter.  I wish I had started in TAG or Rotax.  I primarily run on the big courses but I run at MMX (GoPro Motorplex) in N.C. too.  At the sprint track, the TAG/Rotax karts are every bit as fast as the shifters.  Both types of karts post almost identical lap times there.  The difference is LOTS of guys are fast in the TAG/Rotax karts where there are only a few guys in the shifters who can run with them (I can’t).  On the road course, the shifters post better lap times.  The single speed TAGs have to compromise acceleration for top speed and vice versa on the road courses.  Even so, the TAGs are still fast (WAY faster than rental karts).  If I could do it all over again, I would start with a Leopard.  I know some guys who left shifters for the stock Leopard class because the racing is better (more guys can drive them fast enough to be competitive).  There is a two speed Rotax motor called a DD2.  It’s cool because it is direct drive (no chain) and has paddle shifters.  I rarely come across one of those though.  Good luck.  You are going to have a blast no matter which one you choose.

Todd

[Todd Kageals]

Well…..since Mike mentioned it.  If COTA is out, what about the F1 road course at Indy??

[Todd Kageals]

So they are not directional?????

[Todd Kageals]

I need two of the vented magnesium rear wheels.

$50.00??

[Todd Kageals]

I’d still like to buy a spare axle Chris.  Shoot me a PM with the price (assuming it’s straight ;)

 

Todd

[Todd Kageals]

<div class=”d4p-bbp-quote-title”>That’s great information.  Thanks.</div>
<div class=”d4p-bbp-quote-title”> </div>
<div class=”d4p-bbp-quote-title”>Curtis Cooksey wrote:</div>
Todd, all of the Swift axles are reinforced at the sprocket.

[Todd Kageals]

Keith,

Thanks for the info.  I located the axle numbers M20+R and I ordered a replacement.  Any advice on the installation?  Never removed it before.

[Todd Kageals]

Joe,

I can’t really give a fair compaison of the tires.  I bought them because they were the spec tire at MMX in NC.  I was running there before I started road racing.  I can say for sure that they are durable.  I got a full race day (2 practice sessions, 1 qualifying session, a 10 minute race and a 15 minute race) at MMX + a race at SPR (2 practice sessions and a 30 minute race) + a full practice day (6 10 minute sessions) at VIR + a full race day (2 practice sessions and a 30 minute race) at VIR out of them so far.  I plan to run them at least one more race at SPR as they still look pretty good.  I asked  a similar question a few week back and was told that the Hoosiers are probably about a second a lap slower than the MG Yellows but that they are more durable.  I beat some guys running the MGs and got beaten by some guys running MGs.  I’m just not fast/experienced enough to know how much time is in the tires and how much is in my driving.

Todd

[Todd Kageals]

Bob,

That sounds like an interesting setup but I doubt it approaches 29MPG.  Fuel costs for getting to the track was the major reason I wanted a van.  This thing is built on the Focus platform.  They basically took the front half of a Focus and welded it to box.  You COULD sleep in it too but you’d have to remove the karts and I would have to have A/C in there at night!  Anyway the setup you mentioned sounds cool.  I’d like to see some pictures of it.

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