[Sean S]

Steen, thanks man!
I though of doing that on the spindle but I thought that the negative camber of the front end would thrown off. I’ll give it a shot and see how close it gets.

Ric, I know… I know… I need one but I’ve been hesitant to pay $60 + $20 for shipping. There has to be guys that got around that price and thought of something simple as two legs and a horizontal bar.

Level/balance out a shaft w/hub clamped in a vice… Just thoughts.

[Sean S]

I checked under Tech Updates, but it just referred to pg.43 of the tech manual. I’ve been confused by the meaning of “dual braking system”. David, I was actually talking with your father about this at Grattan at last years closed test event. I’m running a Leopard with a stock Tony rear brake system, but it has 2 master cylinders, one for each side of the caliper/piston/pad. Wouldn’t that be dual braking system for redundancy? I’ve read a lot of the safety stories, the racing advantages/disadvantages, etc. I would love to throw a set of fronts on knowing I have that extra stopping power, but $1000+ is ridiculous for just front brakes concerting that amount of money is almost half of the cash for 2 year old roller!(so if anyone has a set they are selling let me know) I just wanted to chime in get a YES/NO answer on what the current setup I have qualifies as.

[Sean S]

I replied but didn’t see the second page of troubleshooting, so edited/removed my post. Hopefully that works for you.

[Sean S]

I’ve had quite a few problems with electrical and timing. I would check the rotor/stator as you’ve mentioned, but someone correct me if I’m wrong. I’ve had rotor go bad/de-magnetize which cause it not to start. I was also at the track an witnessed a stator to go bad during a race and immediately started popping and afterfiring.

You can try a few simple test before going out to purchase anything. Take off the rotor and see if it will attract anything… stick to toolbox or something (should have a good magnetic bite to it) Not sure if there is a way to measure magnetic strength of one. You can also get a multi-meter and check the output from the stator. I have my exact data output from two working stators of mine, but I have to find them on my hard drive tomorrow.. it’s 3:22am now and I’m on my phone. PM me your email and I will email the screen shot data that I have. Keep us posted with any updates or success.

[Sean S]

I’m in 100%, please keep me posted on the exact date. I can resend my contact info if you have a email group going around. I will also push this along to a few other guys I run with. I believe you spoke with him already, but Larry and Johnny are in also.

[Sean S]

Robert,

Thank you very much for the invite to this closed testing event. It was my first time at Grattan and it was an amazing experience. Even though it was a bit on the chill side, the weather held out and it was perfect Fall karting. The mini race at the end was a blast and I was finally able to see how fast your kart really was… as you rip past me, lapping me like I was standing still. Also tell the track crew that I will be available for grass cutting next season :) I want to thank the corner workers, cooks, racers/crew who showed up, anyone else I may be forgetting and especially Robert for putting it all out there and making this event possible. I hope there is still a possibility for this to happen again. See you guys next season!

Sean

[Sean S]

Thanks Bob, that was an awesome video and great track. I was going to ask you since I notice it in your video also… so this is getting off topic from pipe flex. I ran a different ratio this year and I smoked my newer (sprint) clutch with only a few weekends on it. I know it was my fault at the start for getting overly excited and blipping the throttle, which just overheated the clutch (which probably does nothing besides load it up with fuel even more). Off the start it slipped twice pretty bad and it was the same slip/over rev that I heard in your video. Are you running the road racing clutch? I have mine on order, but I figured the sprint clutch would hold up for the weekend, just as it did all the other years. This track does have 1-2 tight corners vs the very long straight.

Is this slip normal for a taller ratio like you/we run? Have you tried both sprint and RR clutches? I’m trying to figure out if the main cause was just from me heating up the clutch at the start and not having a chance to cool for over 30 minutes, or if it’s due to the clutch slipping/heating up in the tighter corners. The clutch was chunked up and looks overheated.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/4v4dLQp.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/7ikVIMQ.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/HCwSQSi.jpg[/IMG]

[Sean S]

Thanks Tony

[Sean S]

Anytime Chris! Glad it worked out for you.

[Sean S]

Now that the chain is off, try and spin the axle. Does it spin freely? Did your engine possibly move and tighten the chain a lot? If not, check your rear bearings. Probably not it, but put the starter nut back on the shaft and try to wheel it around either by hand or with the 17mm socket to check for compression/stuck piston. I don’t see how that would lock up the axle, but it’s something to check for. If everything checks out, clean bearing and all surfaces with brake clean and grease the bearing. Make sure you pay attention to what way those washers face when being installed. One is coned(clutch side) and the other is stepped (between drum and starter nut). Once back on see how it spins.

Is it the MY 07 (Red/Green button Electronic Box)or 09 (Key Start) engine?
Give this a good read and see if this helps with greasing the bearing, torque specs and chain tension.
http://www.swedetechracing.com/print_forms/parilla-leopard-manual.pdf

[Sean S]

Ehhh… I want to say the needle bearing either seized or came apart on you. The only way the flywheel should move with the axle is if the engine is running and the clutch is engaged. The drum should spin freely with with the axle. Have you ever replaced the clutch drum needle bearing or even greased it? Try taking a set of flat heads behind the drum and carefully wiggle it off (careful of clutch right behind the drum). If not, wait to see of Tony responds since he seems to have the most experience and knowledge with the Leopard. Keep us posted, I would like to know what happened.

[Sean S]

email sent

[Sean S]

PM sent

[Sean S]

Unplug the starter from the harness and try taking some jumper wires and connect to a known working battery(car battery maybe), ground one lead on an allen bolt and just touch the positive + to the starter connection to see if it spins it up (hold the starter if it’s removed from the engine). I’ve had a problem similar to this… along with every other electrical gremlin that is possible on the 07 and Tony has always been right there with a quick and accurate response, so thanks Tony! The issue with mine was the starter brush broke and was not making a connection, hence nothing when you push the button. Give all the above info a try and update your status.

[Sean S]

bump

[Sean S]

What do you mean when you guys say the batteries don’t last? The lower amps that come with the cheaper batteries won’t start the kart after a while or are you getting cracks/leaks on the top side also? Everyone that I talk to uses an external starter, so it’s hard to say if this vibration problem is just my kart or if this happen with most others also. I’m trying to come up with a battery relocation maybe to the front like the MY09’s use.

[Sean S]

Found this info for you with base line carb setup.
http://www.kartonline.com.br/userfiles/TTKnowledge_Packet_V2.pdf
I run a Leopard and have no idea on a Rok. If it helps, my water temp is avg around 140 and just hit 152 last weekend. Temp seemed really high, so I confirmed with friend running Leopard with stock rad also. Flex with a Leopard goes this way, the longer the flex for more top end down the straight (correct me if I’m wrong), so I’m not sure if I would put a longer piece in for a tight track. If you have an on-board starter then you wouldn’t need an external. People like to save the battery and starter brushes for when they really need them or a spin on track. I use mine all the time since my dad isn’t at every race with me. Hope this helps.

Sean

[Sean S]

Yep, the last one I picked up was from Tractor Supply (deer/woods camera battery)and it was $27 compared to the $60 plus shipping that I purchased online. And you are right the amps, they are 7.5 vs 9.0, 12v. I was at the kart shop picking up my engine and I was just having a few words with another customer. He was the one that mentioned that battery, not the owner of the shop. He was some type of engineer and started getting pretty deep with the cranking amps, output discharge, vibration, location, etc. I looked it up really quick and I’m 99% sure this is it.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=22656

I figured if it was that small and light weight I could just mount it under the front faring and behind the steering wheel to reduce the vibration.

Tony,
thanks again for the quick response.

[Sean S]

I saw this post and just now had time to pull the stator off and grab my second one. I had a problem with my spare that I bought from someone on here and never worked which made me think it was something else electrical. I ran the continuity tests and found that I wasn’t getting anything on the Blue and Red wires. I cut the housing away to find out that it has been tampered with and whoever made an attempt to solder it with 2 other pieces of wire, shrink wrap and tape, but didn’t make the best connection.

Here are the results from my current engine stator.
The number under are a second test a few minutes later.

Here are the results of the spare/hacked stator.

Avi,

Not sure about you guys, but do you think my spare is shot or is there anything else to check. I wasn’t getting the continuity sound on the blue and red wires even when I stripped away the jacket to the fresh wire, but i was getting the number read out which looks good… confused

Sean,

[Sean S]

PM’d
Check messages

[Sean S]

Another great year at Waterford Hills. Thank you Bill and MKC for making this possible! Can’t wait for MIS September 6th & 7th.

[Sean S]

That post was rushed without details since I was at work and just looking for a basic answer on wider track = more flex or contribute to bouncing. I guess that video was a bad example also since it was a second run on an engine break-in and that was my 10th lap around that track. I wasn’t driving hard, but towards the end as I was pushing a bit more is when the hopping started to arise. I’m mainly on road courses in the past years, so short tracks are a bit different for me.

Measurements:
-Track with wheels = 56.5″
-Tony Kart Type N = 40.5″ or 1030mm
-Tony Kart Mag Hunbs = 3.5″
-Hubs are 1″ out from bottom on each side

Equipment:
-06/07 Tony Kart Krypton 30mm
-MY07 Parilla Leopard
-1 set of seat struts
-Full caster
-Scrub radius: All spacers inside of spindle (wide width) except for 1 small
spacer on the outside behind the wheel nut.
-Was running front torsion bar and was removed last weekend.
It free up the kart and feels nice, but hopping still persists

[Sean S]

I would like to know also. I had a 1999 that I sold with my old kart and still have a 2001 with parts in my garage. I think someone mentioned the head having more performance on the 99.

Moto guys?

[Sean S]

That is a great video btw. You will know right away if the starter brush is bad. Pull the bottom half with the drive gear off (2 or 3 allen bolts) and hold the armature from the spline. Then remove the 3 phillips head screws (Good luck… so tight I had to cut groves and use a flat head) and the two allen bolts. While holding the armature spline, pull off the golden colored magnet housing and see if the brushes are attached. One of mine fell right out when I pulled off the housing. Good luck

[Sean S]

Thanks guys
I just picked up this guy for $10 since it was about the size I’m looking for.

[Author]

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