[Rob Kozakowski]

The minimum weights for SOME classes – mostly non-shifter – are too high these days, at least at the National level.

Formula Super A / Formula A used to run at 140 kg = 308-309 lbs.

I know that the TAG karts of today are heavier with the battery, radiator, hoses, clutch, wiring harness, on-board starter, bigger displacement engines, etc., plus all the extra plastic, but it’s doubtful that they’re 55 lbs heavier (SKUSA TAG Senior at 365) than they used to be 20 years ago – and if they are, that’s just further proof that the sport has gone in the wrong direction with TAG.

As for today’s weights, if the average guy in a National level TAG Senior is adding 34 lbs, how can you argue that the weight at that level of competition shouldn’t be reduced by at least 15-20 lbs?

[Rob Kozakowski]

First, no Rotax Max will spin the tires off a standing start or from a low speed.  They have nothing at low RPM.

Some people claim that the old style clutch is even worse from a dead stop than the new style.  Unless you’re road racing with a standing start, this shouldn’t matter.

Others claim no difference from a standing start between old and new style clutch.  Both clutches engage around 3000 rpm, so there shouldn’t be any real difference.  They say it’s all jetting and throttle application.  While I have no experience with the old style clutch, that is 100% the case with the new style – jetting and throttle application.

With the Dellorto carbs on the Rotax Max, you can’t just hammer the throttle.  You need to roll into it, or you will give it more fuel than the carb can handle at low RPM.  The new EVO carb is a little less sensitive to this.

If your problem is nothing below 4000-5000 rpm, it really shouldn’t matter. You should probably never be in that low of a range when racing the Rotax Max.  If you are in/below that range, work on gearing and/or work on your driving/chassis setup so that you aren’t scrubbing speed or bogging the engine down.

[Rob Kozakowski]

Obviously, start with getting the frame / components straight.

My first question would be what axle?

ASN Canada rules?  50″ max width?  I’m guessing you have a 50mm axle?  If that’s what you’re running, if you don’t have it in there already, I’d start by going with a soft or super soft axle to try to get that narrow rear end to flex as much as possible – and remove / detach the middle axle bearing. If you’ve got a medium/hard axle in there, it may lift quickly with a stiff rear for decent entry, but sit back down too soon on exit, especially with the combo of lower HP and lower weight and narrower width of the Canadian-rules LO206, compared to the Rok GP.

If I’m guessing correctly, the reason high air pressures are helping is that the sidewalls are no longer flexing under side loads, and instead of generating side bite, the tires are now just sliding which will help the kart rotate – the kart might not be binding as bad on exit, but you’re not getting the forward drive either.  With lower pressures, I’d guess you get the side bite, and with the back end setting back down too fast, you’re probably having to add more steering input and killing your exit.

A soft axle is almost a “must” for the 4-cycles at 50″.

[Rob Kozakowski]

Tyler –

OTK brakes are kind of notorious for needing pretty constant maintenance.  Guys I race against love them when they’re working, but they are bleeding them frequently, replacing pads regularly, and swearing at them as a result.  And remember, the newer OTK uses DOT5 silicon brake fluid – not 4, not 5.1.

I’d start by flushing out the old fluid, and making sure they’re bled with new fluid (and talk to an OTK dealer to make sure you’re using a good DOT5 fluid and using the correct method to bleed them – I know some experienced guys who struggled getting it right when switching to OTK from other brakes).  This should hopefully fix most of your problems.

[Rob Kozakowski]

Jay, if you want GPS and can wait a bit, the Mychron 5 is supposed to be coming out soon, with a built-in GPS feature, rather than being an add-on as it is with the Mychron 4.  Just another option for you to consider.  I don’t know what the pricing will be, but my guess is it will be similar to buying the 4 and adding the GPS to it.

[Rob Kozakowski]

I’m glad to hear that you guys are running at 55″.  Calgary is at 55″, Edmonton is at 53.5″ – technically 136 cm (a compromise for local political reasons).

Calgary and Edmonton are allowing 7.1 rear tires.

As much as the ASN specs are nice, Western Canada just doesn’t have enough ASN-spec 4-cycle chassis kicking around to make it feasible for everyone to run at the ASN-spec 50″.

[Rob Kozakowski]

The older vintage Tony’s will pose more challenges than most for mounting a 4-cycle.  Frame rail spacing on the older Tony’s is unique and will make it harder to find a mount; and the cross rail angle sucks and it will have to be cut and moved to give sprocket clearance.  I guess the good thing is that when you move the cross rail, you’ll have to also move the seat post with it?

I agree with Dan – this is a case where it’s probably better to find a different chassis.

[Rob Kozakowski]

Evan, check out my comments in the tech forum on 35 sprockets… point #2 is pretty important to align the sprocket halves and get the bind out of the chain… a lesson I was taught by a Western Canadian Briggs champ.

As Gary said, the 35 chain can be run pretty much all year, with simply lubing it before every session – if things are properly aligned.

Are you guys running at max 55″ in BC, as opposed to the ASN Canada 50″ max?  What size rear tires do you run there?

[Rob Kozakowski]

The sprocket hub shouldn’t be a problem.  I just did the same on a CRG for a friend.  And there will be a small gap on each side… this is normal.  Two things that I do with the 35 sprockets…

1. Ensure that you have both halves facing the “same” direction.  Most split sprockets will have a line to indicate which side of the two halves belong together.  Those lines should line up with each other when mounted.  If you put one half on the wrong way, it won’t line up properly and the chain will jump, bind, etc.

2. After ensuring the above, start tightening the nuts while leaving some play.  Then shove the motor mount forward  to take up the slack in the chain.  Then spin the axle – this will help “gap” the two halves properly.  Then fully tighten the nuts and bolts.  Finally, tighten the mount with the appropriate level of slack in the chain.  Spin axle to test it.  If you don’t do this, you will often have no gap on one side and a big gap on the other… chain binds, jumps, etc.

[Rob Kozakowski]

Britt, I believe that any karting event held in Canada and hosted by an ASN Canada affiliated club (i.e. West Coast Kart Club) is required to be run under ASN Canada insurance.

And I’m also pretty sure that there is an agreement in place where even if the event is sanctioned by IKF (sanctioning defined as: IKF classes, IKF technical rules, and IKF sporting/competition rules apply), ASN Canada’s insurance (and insurance-related rules – driver’s safety equipment, track safety, etc.) apply.

[Rob Kozakowski]

Evan, you’re correct that it isn’t an exact 2 mm measurement.  But it’s close enough that any difference will not be extremely meaningful.  Your best bet to provide the most precision is to take the measurements consistently at the longest distance possible (outside end of the spindle).

When the odds are that your wheels may not be “exactly” straight ahead, when the tie rod sees a tiny bit of adjustment when the ends are tightened down, when the kart flexes on the ground, etc.  All of these things make having an exact measurement next to impossible.

[Rob Kozakowski]

This is only a guess, but since the event was run in Canada, it’s possible that ASN Canada’s safety requirements may have applied.  Only juniors are required to wear neck collars/protection in Canada… it’s optional for senior drivers up here.

[Rob Kozakowski]

If CRG is your thing and you’re looking new(er)…

In Canada, PSL Karting offered a CRG/PSL RS5 28mm frame that was purpose-built for the LO206, and run to Canadian specs (50″ max width, 6.0 rear tires).  I’m not sure where you’ll find them in the USA.

If you’re set on CRG and LO206, that would be a very good option, as the cost of the chassis was much lower than a typical “TAG” chassis, by using 40mm rear end, 17mm front end, older brake system, only 2 rear axle bearings / carriers, etc.

The downside to that setup is that it isn’t suitable for moving up to other classes with more horsepower.

The CRG KT-1 is a 30mm 2-cycle chassis that can be setup to take a LO206, and should work just fine for a bigger guy, or run at 55″, 7.1 rears, etc – and can still take a more powerful engine package if you want.

For the step-son, a cadet kart would probably be the way to go.

[Rob Kozakowski]

Walt,

The Pacific Northwest’s IKF Region 6 (and BC, Canada – Region 8) Gold Cup series has been around forever.

It has nothing to do with the WKA Gold Cup series.

[Rob Kozakowski]

It’s next to impossible to give this advice because karting is continually getting more fragmented, with pockets of classes that are popular in one region that may not exist “next door”.  So, if you just want to stay local, pick whatever is run locally.  If you might travel or race beyond that level, the following kind of summarizes what might be available to choose from…

Shifter – is mostly “Stock” Honda, but the KZ (ICC/Euro) stuff is making a comeback in a few places.  You’re correct that Mod Moto is all but dead, with the exception of some road racing, and the odd small club level stuff.

2-cycle racing – it’s a mess on a National level, but most regions will have 1 or 2 classes that are decent.  In general, you’ll either look at “TAG” (Rotax Max, IAME, Vortex Rok each have their own 1-make deals, and in a few places they’re run together as “TAG” with a few other engine options); and some places still have an old-school KT-100 presence.

4-cycle racing – I’d say that the new(ish)Briggs LO206 might be the saviour of karting in North America.  Any smart club and region should be running these things, and it is catching on more and more across the country.  It might be the only class in all of karting that has a presence and is run to the same specs, from coast to coast.  Aside from the LO206, 4-cycle is just as big a mess as 2-cycle.

[Rob Kozakowski]

Oddly enough, if you read what they say on that website about the G-Force helmets, they even say they are geared toward autocross and drag racing.

My recommendation – find something else.

[Rob Kozakowski]

I had a G-Force for a little while, but a different model.

My opinion – the low prices reflect the quality – I honestly wouldn’t recommend them for kart racing, or any motorsport other than autocross or real slow drag racing.  I’d never wear one in wheel-to-wheel competition again.

The problem I had was that the padding inside seems “too” soft – I’m guessing it’s probably a very cheap, low density foam material.  What fit well when I bought it, quickly got compressed through (minimal) use to the point that the thing was loose enough that I didn’t feel safe in the event that I might go upside down.

If you want a better quality helmet from that website list in that lower price range, I’d look at the HJC AR-10.  I got one from Ted Hamilton (you can probably pm him – he’ll definitely help you out).  It’s still on the heavier side, compared to the mid-higher end Arai, Bell, etc., but the price is a lot lower, while still retaining good quality and fit.

[Rob Kozakowski]

In Canada, we can’t get the Briggs 4T – or we couldn’t, labelling issue I believe – otherwise I would use it.  I use Redline 4-Stroke Kart – Briggs Racing seems to direct Canadians towards it – and because it’s readily available – I prefer to get it from kart shops, but if I need it “now”, I can pick it up at other local performance automotive shops.  We run events over Saturday and Sunday, 4 sessions per day.  I change it at the end of every Sunday.

[Rob Kozakowski]

Keeping in mind that repeatability is what we are really looking for, here’s a potential problem with measuring alignment on the ground…  From:

http://kracer.com.au/blog/kart-setup-nitty-gritty/alignments-dynamic-or-static

<span style=”color: #2f2f2f; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 15.6000003814697px; line-height: 23.3999996185303px;”>”Secondly – and I had done a lot of dynamic wheel alignments before I realised this – unless you let the tyres run out to their true resting position, you’re not actually doing a dynamic wheel alignment at all! Obviously, when you get in the kart on the ground, the chassis sags and the wheels get more negative camber. However, unless you roll the kart forwards at least a metre or two, the tyres stay loaded up and don’t let the stubs sag as far as they actually will on the track. Sitting in the kart will often see camber go 2-3mm towards negative. Rolling the kart forward a few metres will see another millimetre or two of negative camber gain! Bet your mate that told you “dynamic alignments are the best” didn’t know that!”</span>

[Rob Kozakowski]

Exactly what Jim said.

There’s no right or wrong way to do it.  The key is being consistent with whatever method you choose so that you can reference back to what works and what doesn’t work.  Often times, the easiest way to maintain that consistency is to do it on the stand.

[Rob Kozakowski]

Andy, put things back into perspective, and enjoy the LO206… I swear, they’re a lot of fun as soon as you get it on the track.

1)  You’ve already said you’re on a budget.  So, I’m assuming the reason you have an ’08 Kosmic is because it was cheaper.  Why was it cheaper?  Because It has no real value as a TAG kart anymore because it’s too old for the TAG guys. So what value are you really hurting by modifying it for 4-cycle racing?  I’d agree with Steve… it might actually have more value now… it’s only real value today is as a 4-cycle or starter kart anyways.

2) Listen to Gary.  He’s got more knowledge and experience than just about anyone here.  Don’t worry too much about the offset.  Briggs has to warn us about the potential problems – cover your ass.  The good news is that the engine is detuned to only turn 6100 rpm… the reality is you won’t hurt it. Or take up Jim’s offer on the mount.

3) You’re doing this for fun.  If the seat placement is off a little, don’t sweat it.  If a 4-cycle chassis is a bit faster, don’t sweat it.  Just have fun.

I’ve seen LO206’s on a huge variety of karts… with and without mods.  The newer OTK Racers will definitely work, and can be fast, without any mods.

[Rob Kozakowski]

Do an initial comparison of the stand to the ground… then…

Do it on the stand.

In other words, just like Gary, Tony and TJ say.

 

When you’re driving, the load on the front end of the kart, even with the wheels pointed straight ahead, is always changing… under acceleration, under braking, riding over bumps, etc.  There is no such thing as a static load on the kart when you’re racing… so what does placing a static load on the kart, while on the ground really add to anything over putting a static load while on the stand?

[Rob Kozakowski]

You’re not the first, nor will you be the last one to do that!

 

[Rob Kozakowski]

Larry, just an FYI – that hose is supposed to have a hole in it – to allow it to vent.

If you replaced it with a hose without a hole, you won’t allow it to vent properly.

[Rob Kozakowski]

First guess is it’s probably something with the float needle / seat.

Pull carb off, drain fuel out of it, and blow into the fuel inlet.  Air should not be blowing through.  If it is, you probably either have some debris in there not allowing the needle to seat, or the needle / seat is shot and needs to be replaced.  If you cleaned with carb cleaner, you could have (likely) damaged the needle valve.

Could also be the floats.

Are they installed the right way?  With carb off and held upside down, shake it – do you hear them rattling?

Are the floats damaged and filling with fuel?  Is the float height set?

Finally, venting could be the other source of your problem.

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