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Viewing 25 posts - 26 through 50 (of 68 total)
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  • in reply to: How does this tire wear look? #13566
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    I am very interested in hearing what some of the more experienced people say.

    My humble opinion is that you are indeed running too much negative camber.  The outside of the fronts are pretty much unused.  But, having said that, there are times when running that extra camber helps in lap times due to the response mid-late corner.

    The wear in general looks good (no understeer, oversteer issues).

    Ray

    in reply to: Tuning the idle jet with EGT #13309
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    Sorry I lost sight of this thread Rob.  Here is Al’s response to my question about the small circuit tuning:

     

    People have a misunderstanding for the reason the low speed number on the EGT being lower than the number on the top.  The EGT number is lower because of the greater heat and/or pressure, (the effects of the pipe) on the low speed verses the high speed.<br clear=”none” />Just like on the high speed, you want the EGT to read it’s highest when coming out of a tight turn.  If the temp goes down, you need to richen the mixture.  If it goes down further, it may be because the engine is too rich, so then you can lean it out and see what happen.  It’s a challenge I know, but it’s what you have to do.<br clear=”none” />Detonation occurs long before you can hear it, and when it occurs, it’s because of excessive heat and/or pressure.  <br clear=”none” />I have no experience with your carb, but I doubt, (a guess really) that the clip position will have much to do with the low speed.  Play with it and find out for sure.  Let me know, I always like to expand my knowledge base.<br clear=”none” />The EGT is very dependent on the ambient air conditions, you can’t just set it and forget it.  Get an air density gauge and compare it to your carb settings.  Over time I think you will see a pattern emerging between the two.  Low air density, less fuel, lower temp, and the opposite with high air density.  Engine compression is also something to keep a record of as the engine gets time on it.  Low compression will also affect EGT temps.  Low compression, low temps

    in reply to: Driving: Slow in Slow out #13308
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    I wasn’t going to go there Rob, but I’m more confused now than I was before I knew what the question was.

    Here is what I found very useful.  Following closely behind someone who is JUST a little faster than me.  Following someone 2 seconds faster than me is useless because they just walk away.  But I found I learned what speed was possible by following someone JUST ahead of me.

    Ray

    in reply to: Big and Tall #11824
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    Cut off your left leg right at the hip.  This will reduce braking and thus increase your speed upon turn in.  It will reduce your weight by approximately 15% and thus improve your chances to compete.  I found it very important to re-scale the kart as the balance will be significantly off.

    Alternatively, you can cut off the right leg and simply pin the gas pedal on permanently.  This is a little better for kart balance as the engine is on the right side.

    Good Luck!

    in reply to: Opinions please #11772
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    You could get one of those helmets that tilts up/down.  That would allow you to have your glasses on (with the straps) and get the helmet on your noggin.  Then flip down the front face shield.

    not a great link- but he shows the ‘modular’ helmet and he uses it because he can have his glasses on and then flip it down.

    http://siennabrickroad.com/2010/04/gear-part-one-helmets/

    Ray

    in reply to: Pit bike motors #11385
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    Could go one further and see if there is something on a scooter that would have more muscle.  The pit bike motors are so small and low quality (well, the piece of junk I had..)

    We’d simply need more hp to make it interesting enough to gain traction.

    It does beg the question though:

    http://scootercatalog.com/250cc-4-stroke-liquid-cooled-engine.html

    in reply to: Alignment #11321
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    Looks like you’ve got yourself a homemade front end alignment tool.  You’ll want to lock the steering column so you can take measurements (or get someone to help).  Take a tape measure and measure from one side to the other.  Front edge to back edge should be about equal (toe in/out).  Top edge to bottom edge could be equal (for dead neutral camber) or perhaps not if you need to adjust for various handling issues.

    One thing to keep in mind is that the chassis will flex when you get in it (with wheels on) and will invalidate your careful measurements.

    in reply to: Driving: Slow in Slow out #10907
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    So you are saying that after the initial threshold brake I should immediately begin picking up some throttle (until max throttle at the apex)?

    How is this for another vague question:  Should you threshold brake every time you brake?  Or are there times when you can be lazy with the brake?

    To me it seems like the brake should 100% if you need it, otherwise you’d lose time getting back on the throttle..

    Ray

    in reply to: Music before a race? #10255
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    I listen to the Star Spangled Banner.  Over and Over and Over again.

    in reply to: WTB One OTK Rear MXC Wheel #9924
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    Which one.  The left or the right one?

    in reply to: Tire Stagger for chassis tuning #9641
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    TJ – have you found many tires that were really out of bed?  I could see being concerned with a rear tire that was 0.5-1.0″ different in circumference than the other side.  But I haven’t come across to much of a difference to warrant a concern.

    Bob – I do know guys that buy lots of tires and match them up by size.  But I don’t know anyone who staggers them.  But if you did want to, you could put larger diameter tire on the outside rear wheel.

    Ray

    in reply to: 80cc Shifter or Not? … That is the question #9524
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    I went the shifter route (ICC, then CR125) and my honest advice is go Tag or Rotax.  Go get one and use it for a year.  Buy it used, sell it used.  You will have way more fun and won’t spend all your time fixing it, upgrading it, shifting it and going off the track!

    I like shifters, but if I could have learned on a Tag I believe I would have had a much better time, driven more, and spent way less money.

    Then I would have bought the shifter later (1-2 years later) and would have the experience to tune it and drive it.

    Ray

    in reply to: Driving: Looking Ahead #9507
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

     I am definitely guilty of road hypnosis.  I will get in a groove and find that my eyes will focus just ahead of the kart and not well into the distance or move around looking at different things.  This is usually when the race is in full swing and we’ve spread out.

    I think a big sign that says “LOOK AHEAD” would help.  Every 50 feet or so..

    Ray

    in reply to: Tuning the idle jet with EGT #9505
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    p.s.  I contacted Al and he gave me more info on using the EGT for the bottom end.  I don’t know why he hasn’t come over to here..

     

    Ray

     

    in reply to: Tuning the idle jet with EGT #9504
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    Thanks for the great info Eric.

    I’ve got Alexander Graham Bell’s ;) book around here somewhere.  I read it a lot.

    I’ll write down your notes and try them at the track this weekend.

    Ray

    in reply to: Tuning the idle jet with EGT #9368
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    wow.  I ask how to “tune the idle circuit using EGT” and I get:

    1.  Why would you want to do that?

    2.  It’s important and should be done.

    OK, anyone else want to take a stab?

     

    in reply to: Tuning the idle jet with EGT #9252
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    No one out there knows this answer?  What happened to Al?

    in reply to: Recommend Kart driver training in SoCal #9251
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    I also recommend slowing down before the turn.  It keeps you out of the weeds.

    I believe Walt means you want to make absolutely sure you are accelerating out from the apex.  If you are too fast into the corner you won’t be able to get on the gas early enough to make a fast exit speed.

    Ray

    in reply to: Adding 40 pounds… #9064
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    Do like I do, strap it to your gut.  Just start a program that sounds something like this:

    1. McDonalds

    2. Wendy’s

    3. Burger King

    4. Repeat

    in reply to: Stock Moto vs ICC (KZ) .. Which to choose and why? #8852
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    Steen – I think Tom is simply referring to the distances needed to travel to get to tracks.  We do in fact have a lower population density than Europe (84 people/sq. mile vs France at 289 or Germany at 609)

    Derek – best advice, find your local track(s), talk to the other drivers.  In my area (Denver) I have seen ZERO modern ICC engines.  You run across the occasional Pavesi.  But then if you want to race shifter class, only one option, CR125.

    Ray

     

    in reply to: What is the most common injuries in Shifter Kart racing? #8412
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    If I could include one feature on a kart.  It would be that every time I bump or get bumped my kart would spew 100 dollar bills all over the track.

    My injuries have been ankles (when I got thrown clear of my kart, sprained my right ankle).  Some rib soreness (crossing my fingers that I don’t ever brake one).

    in reply to: Data Acquisition #8411
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    I’d agree that most of the time I don’t see other drivers downloading in the pits.  But that isn’t true at important races.  I hide in the back of my truck (so I can see my laptop screen) and review what just happened and where I can find time while the laps are fresh in my mind.

    I find that going home and reviewing is very helpful, but not as helpful as seeing it RIGHT after it happened.  Mainly I’m looking at my lines and splits with the GPS mapping.
    Ray

    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    I’d say ‘consumables’ would be:

    air filter, air filter cleaner, air filter oil, fuel filter, fuel line, throttle cable, chain, any hardware that sticks out below the chassis (grinds down)

    Chassis:  front/rear bumpers on occasion will get ground down (front bumper on the bottom lip, rear bumper can grind against your tire).  Axles get bent.  Kingpins, kingpins get bent about once a year due to bumping something/someone.  Rear axle bearings wear out.  Rear axle gear teeth wear out.

    Engine:  ALWAYS keep a spare piston/ring/wrist pin/bearing.  You never know and it usually isn’t good.  Spark plugs, buy them buy the pack for use jetting.  Seals/gaskets, every time you take the cases apart it seems the gaskets get a little damaged.  You might want to consider a spare crank assembly.  Definitely need extra springs and viton rings for the pipe/manifold.  Spare base gaskets for the cylinder.

    Ray

     

    in reply to: rear track width on older kart #7869
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    TJ the kart is 13 years old, but was hanging on a wall (without any fittings, unused) for all of that time.

    So older karts did indeed have slightly narrower tracks that karts of today.
    Thanks guys

    Ray

    in reply to: rear track width on older kart #7844
    Ray Lovestead
    Participant

    Just curious.  Most of the kart manuals say the wider the rear track the more stable the kart will be.  They all suggest being at the max.

    My (in)ability to drive is a much bigger impact on performance as it is.

    Ray

Viewing 25 posts - 26 through 50 (of 68 total)