[Patrick Roth]

Here’s my “any input”…  I would not suggest widening the front or adding caster as it would increase the jacking and keep the inside rear from helping with your drive off sooner.

Do others run the Mojo Reds?  I’ve never run them myself but it might be worth trying higher pressures (say 14 and/or 16 psi hot).  If 12 psi hot is the absolutely place to be with tire pressures (or it doesn’t get better with higher pressures) than I would suggest narrowing the rear and going to a medium or long hub.  If this doesn’t help than you might want to try without the front bar in.

Do you have any seat struts mounted?

[Patrick Roth]

My two cents…  start by reducing the overall rear width and then proceed to take caster out.  Its been a number of years since I ran TaG but I never tightened the third bearing and/or had the rear bumper tight (this doesn’t mean it’s a bad idea, but for your reference it is not something I ever used on the karts that I owned).

 

[Patrick Roth]

I would suggest private lessons rather than a “school”.  Texas and Oklahoma have several high-caliber drivers that are worth reaching out to and see if they offer lessons.  I’m in the Houston area and had a lesson from a S1 driver and it was some of the best money I’ve ever spent on karting.  If Houston is too far, give Dallas Karting Complex and/or Oklahoma Motorsports Complex a call to see if they can help you.

[Patrick Roth]

I like the idea of the claiming rule in theory but the application seems full of issues…

I wish they would limit the variation in the overall package.  For example, pick one fuel (none of this MS98 or C12), one silencer, one carb, one cylinder, one reed set, and one fuel delivery system.  I’d even like to see a standard airbox used so that those people that race at tracks with noise restrictions aren’t having to adjust to using a filter when going to the large events.  If they want to use a claiming rule than limit it to cylinders and carbs rather than complete engines.

Just my two cents…  Cheers!

[Patrick Roth]

Are you running the Braga or the Zuera?  What is your caster setting?  Front and rear ride height?  How many laps are on those tires?

For what it’s worth, I aim for around 13 psi HOT with MG whites and I run a plastic front bar.

When I first started driving a shifter (CRG Road Rebel) a few years back I experienced a similar phenomenon.  I was fortunate enough to have a S1 driver coach me to the point where I brake in a straight line as much as possible (in the shortest distance possible) and focus on as little steering input as possible (and a smooth, yet quick, unwinding).  A lot easier said than done but after a lot of practice my front tires looked more like they are supposed to.

[Patrick Roth]

I haven’t seen anyone use anything other than the laser Snipers to set front geometry.  I’ve seen the ads for toe plates and other lower cost methods but I have literally never seen them used at the track.  The point of this is the price point for the lasers seems acceptable for most and those that don’t own their own set, borrow from others.

I personally like the Snipers and would never consider using anything else because I don’t have to turn on my brain due to their ease of use.  I’m not saying stringing is rocket science but it does require more expertise to use and I can’t imagine it being nearly as fast as the Snipers.

I do like your thought on stringing on the ground but getting everything level would be a bear and making sure you take out the variables associated with wheels, tires, etc.

 

[Patrick Roth]

I would not recommend using the Frixa brake pads on a non-Frixa rotor.  While I prefer the Frixa brake setup over the steel VEN05, my experience was when I purchased both the Frixa rotor and the pads (never tried the Frixa pads on a non-Frixa rotor).  I think I recall someone trying Frixa pads on a non-Frixa rotor and it wasn’t good at all…

My last 4 karts were CRG’s with VEN05 brakes and I highly recommend you stick with OEM.  I have tried numerous times to save a few bucks and go with aftermarket and on several times they have disappointed me.  While some claim “OEM compound” I can’t say that they ever felt the exact same as OEM…

If you do go with aftermarket, I have had the best luck with the ones that Acceleration Karting sells.

[Patrick Roth]

I used to run a Vortex ROK TT and recall struggling to find a manual as well (granted this was a few years ago).  I ended up calling a few places that either sold Vortex parts and/or rebuilt them and I was able to at least get answers to my specific questions even though they didn’t have manuals.  I believe Comet Kart Sales and J3 Competition were who I contacted…

As far as the Kosmic kart goes I’m not much help.  Comet Karts Sales sells the chassis line so they may be a good source of info (in addition to asking about the Vortex).

[Patrick Roth]

For both the kart and the engine I would suggest calling OTK Kart USA.

 

[Patrick Roth]

Everything is off the kart and is now taking up space in my garage.  I welcome reasonable offers…

 

 

[Patrick Roth]

Do you have a reference as to what tire pressures others are running?  I see where you have tested a pretty wide range but in my opinion you should get a ballpark of where others are running and then start tuning from there (try to take this out of the equation so you can focus on other things).

I recently attended a race (new track to me on tires harder than I’m used to) where I would’ve chased my tail if it weren’t for a friendly competitor letting me know the tire pressures he was running.  Once I set the tire pressures it became tuning myself and then a little on the kart (balance felt good still, just needed slight tweaks in front and rear width).

[Patrick Roth]

My experience with an Extreme (30mm) chassis was quite good.  Yes, it is “cheap” in price but I can’t say that there was anything specifically “cheap” about the design and/or build quality.  The only thing that I didn’t like was when the one I used was assembled it didn’t have foot rests (not sure if this was the lack of being supplied with the kart or an omission during assembly) but this was fixed with $30 worth of foot rests.

For reference, I rented this kart for a regional 4 cycle series (I’m 6’0″ 185lbs) and as far as performance, I was just as fast in this kart as I was in the CRG I had used at the previous event (only 0.03 seconds of the leader who was running a CRG and had lots of laps under his belt).  I have always run CRG karts in both TaG and shifter (I currently run a shifter as my primary class and the 4 cycle was just to have some fun) so this is the only brand I can compare performance with.  It is a long story how I ended up renting an Extreme chassis but I came away pleasantly surprised and in my opinion, is worth a serious look for someone who wants a new kart but doesn’t have the budget for one of the bigger brands.

 

 

 

[Patrick Roth]

All items are still for sale.  I’m finally going to get around to removing the brake package from the kart this weekend.  These are arguably the best brakes on the market!

Asking $650 for the complete brake package and $100 for the shifter components.  Prices do not include shipping or PayPal fees.

Thanks for looking!

[Patrick Roth]

I’m 6′ 0″ tall and have never wished for more leg room through a longer chassis or extended porch.  It’s really a personal preference but figured I’d throw out my experience as a data point for you to consider…

Just about any chassis that a 4 cycle motor can be mounted to can be fast.  The fastest guys at my club run all sorts of different chassis’.  One runs a DR 4 cycle, another a CRG 4 cycle, another a 30mm CRG, another a 32mm Birel, another a 32mm Intrepid, and the list goes on and on.  The point being these guys are fast on old/new chassis of varying brands with varying tubing sizes.  My recommendation is to find a kart that is supported locally and if there isn’t one than get some recommendations from the guys at your local club.

I will put in my two cents if you want to go brand new.  To keep flexibility I would recommend a 30mm, 30/32, or a 32mm chassis (you never know if you will want to switch to TaG or at some point you may decide to sell the chassis and these appeal to a larger crowd).  I recently rented an Extreme World Formula kart from RPM Racekarts in which I ran a World Formula motor (not that much more power than the 206).  I was extremely impressed with the design and the way it handled and I was running the 30mm version.  In one weekend I was barely a tick behind the class leader who was racing his kart in which he had a lot more laps and experience with.

 

[Patrick Roth]

I just noticed where Roy’s ad includes a motor mount which is another ~$200 item…

[Patrick Roth]

Now that I have the disclaimer out of the way, I’ll see if I can’t be more helpful… ;) I’m unable to view the ebay item so I’ll make some assumptions.

1) A key decision is to go with either a 99 or a 01 top end.  Based on price alone, the 99 is cheaper and there is arguably little, if any, performance gain by going the 01 route (but the 01 is the choice of just about every SKUSA racer out there).  I’m going to assume you’ll be going with a 99 top end.

2) A complete rebuild kit (both the top and bottom, less the crank) can be had for about $500 from Fastech.  You could also identify the parts and try to save a few bucks by going to a large distributor such as Partzilla.

3) If you go with a new crank make sure you get the slip fit available from a karting specific supplier.

4) For the top end you’ll need a 99 cylinder and head with a set of power valves installed.  The nice thing about the 99 is the power valves can easily be removed and installed on another cylinder.  Depending on how complete your bottom end/engine is you may or may not need some additional items (cylinder studs and nuts, water hose joint, etc).  DO NOT HONE THE CYLINDER (it has plating)!

5) Hopefully your motor will come with an intake boot and reed cage.  If so take a real close look at the reeds and replace if there is any sign of cracking or fraying.  The safe bet would be to replace the reeds to put you at ease.  If it doesn’t come with the intake boot and reed cage, you’ll need to buy them.

6) The “hot” carb is the Keihin PWM carb.

7) As long as your track allows, the cheap route is to go with an air filter intake rather than an airbox.  The air filter is the preferred route.  I recommend a support of the filter/airbox to keep the intake boot from ripping.

8) On the exhaust side you’ll need a flange coming off the cylinder.  In my opinion, they all stink so pick your poison.  The o’rings constantly need replacing or the OEM metal band also will crack and fall apart over time (I don’t like this one because it seems like an opportunity for small metal parts to get into the cylinder).  The 01 has a nice manifold with a wide rubber seal but this won’t work on the 99.

9) SKUSA runs a SK1 exhaust pipe; however, check your club rules to see if the RLV pipes are allowed.  If the RLV pipes are allowed you may want to put a wanted to buy ad on this site as there is likely a SKUSA racer that has a pipe laying around from before the switch to the SK1.

10) For a 99, a 14″ silencer is what I ran and is what I’ve seen many other people run.

11)  Mounting brackets – I highly recommend the MRC brackets for the coil and CDI as it moves everything to the back of the seat and takes away the vibration which seems to be the cause of several failures.  MRC also makes/sells nice exhaust pipe and silencer brackets at good prices.

12)  I recommend going with the MRC fuel pump and mounting bracket.  This is a single pump and simplifies everything.  I haven’t had a single issue with this setup.

13)  Electronics – I hope you got the CDI and coil with your bottom end; otherwise, you’ll need these items ($$$).  I’m assuming the stator is coming with the motor (if not this is another big $$$ item).

14)  Cooling – Closely inspect your water pump impeller and bearing (not sure if this is included in a bottom end kit) when you have the bottom end in pieces.  Replace if needed.  As far as the radiator goes there are a lot of options.  I recommend calling RPM Racekarts as they sell low cost radiators with a nice mounting bracket.  I’m sure there are others out there, this is just what I have found.

Hopefully this helps!  If the $$$ adds up to more than you are willing and decided to go the used kart motor route, I just notice a DDR 01 package go up for sale for $4k from Roy Montgomery.  Included in the package are two cylinders so you could buy the package and sell the other cylinder.  I know Roy and he is meticulous about his stuff and since he is a karter his package should fit the bill.

 

 

[Patrick Roth]

Bejamin,

Welcome to the forum!  I am by no means an expert but will chime in with my two cents…  If you were starting with a motor with a known karting history I would say the repair/rebuild would be relatively easy to deal with yourself; however, I recently watched a friend of mine try to save money by buying a bottom end off of ebay only to have it grenade and cost him a lot more in the end (costly bottom end rebuild in addition to a second top end).  I’m not saying to not go the ebay route, but my recommendation would be to pay for a complete rebuild by someone who does this for a living so they can inspect all the components.  It’s a lot of $$$ and takes away the fun of learning and rebuilding, but IMHO it’s better than the risk of learning the hard way and costing a lost more $$$.

With that being said, I believe everyone here would use a “slip fit” crank since a stock crank would require somewhat specialized assembly of the main bearings.  I’m sure each engine builder has their own black magic but Honda is a world class manufacturer and I doubt they would put their name on anything that wasn’t durable/reliable/consistent (not to mention they have used and perfected their motors for many years).

There are so many nuances about getting the setup that has the cost, speed, and reliability to match your needs I would highly recommend talking to an engine builder.  I have been extremely satisfied with my dealings with Musgrave Racing (MRC) and highly recommend a call and conversation with Willy Musgrave.

 

[Patrick Roth]

PM sent…  Thanks!

[Patrick Roth]

JC,

What year chassis did the 25mm spindles come off of?  How much are you looking for the pair?  I don’t need the hubs, just the spindles.

Thanks!

Patrick

[Patrick Roth]

This seems like a silly question given a 25 year time span (we could have the same discussion about the price of gas, cars, toys, screwdrivers, stuffed animals, etc)…  Yes, inflation is partly responsible and yes, materials and components cost more (ex: bodywork).  Building on what Mark mentions, the market also plays a huge role not just in what price it will bear, but also in what it demands (magnesium components, variety of different seats, fancy brakes, data acquisition, etc).

How much was the cost of a kart in 2003 and 2007 to compare with the Legend (noticed you didn’t say “new Legend”) and new IMCA car?

Curt, how much would your front drive Roadster cost new?  How much are brakes and tires and how long do you think they will last?  How much are suspension components when they get damaged during contact or an off track incident?

I wish karts were cheaper to buy and operate but I don’t buy for a second that racing a car is less expensive at an equivalent level.  IMHO, even if they were penny for penny equal, driving a car on a track isn’t near as thrilling.

Cheers! :)

 

[Patrick Roth]

3 of my last 4 karts have been Road Rebels and I prefer the softer seats.  I tried the IMAF (loved the way the kart handled) but they were very brittle and cracked at the mounting points (barely made it 3 months and I quit using them after the second seat failed quickly).  I tried a soft Tillett many years ago and liked it (I think it was a T8?).  I also have used a Ribtect carbon fiber on a couple occasions and while I would argue it changes the handling, I found most of it to be corrected by simply running 1 (sometimes 0) seat strut rather than 2.

Currently I’m running a brand called Greyhound (purchased through RPM Racekarts) and it feels much like the IMAF and seems like it will be more durable.  

Regardless of the seat you buy, make sure you use really large washers between the seat and the mounting points to help extend the life of the seat.

[Patrick Roth]

I’ve tried various Sparco, Oakley, and K1 suits (I live in Texas) and the K1 suits I had were the lightest weight and most breathable; however, in terms of durability the Sparco and Oakley win hands down. 

I normally run an Oakley suit but when the temps get high (or I feel I need to shave every ounce of weight) I break out the K1 (custom ordered).

[Patrick Roth]

While I have never disected the design of a CRG brand axle bearing, I personally believe you would be paying for the name.  I have run CRGs for the past 5 years and have tried a variety of different bearings.  I currently run the SKF concentra bearings on my outer hangers.  While I really like the SKF bearings because they are “serviceable” and have lasted me several years, they are quite expensive.  Before I went to the SKF I tried a variety of bearings and if I were to go back to a “traditional” bearing I would buy the cheap ones and throw away as needed.

I could’ve swore that someone found a “serviceable” bearing that was much lower cost than the SKF but for the life of me I can’t find it?  All I mean by “serviceable” is the design was intentionally made to take off the dust covers easily, do a thorough cleaning, apply fresh lubricant, and reinstall dust covers.

[Patrick Roth]

It’s been a while since I ran a Leopard but will give you some feedback…

While not in the location you desire, I had success using Comet Kart Sales. They had good pricing, response time, and were unbelievably helpful over the phone in guiding me through the things I wanted to do myself.

A top end is fairly easy to do (may need/want to buy a wrist pin removal tool and circlip installation tool); however, the bottom end requires specialist tools to split (and reconnect) the crank to remove the connecting rod. The bottom end also requires removing the clutch using a special tool but this is definitely a tool to have for when you need to replace the clutch.

The “advanced” do-it-yourselfers in my area will do everything to disassemble the top and bottom end but will still send the crank out to be disassembled/assembled. Given that these things spin at 17,000 RPM’s, I used to do top ends but sent the motor out for complete rebuild when the bottom end needed done.

If you haven’t done this already, Google Iame Leopard rebuild and you should find a rebuild manual that walks you step by step throught the process.

[Patrick Roth]

Ironically, Dave’s son is one of the youths I thought of and asked myself “Would I prefer to not race him because of his age?” and the answer without a doubt is I would rather race him than a number of people with 1000’s of more laps or several times his age. Blair has certainly shown that he has the speed to race with the pack and while he is a novice, I am confident racing him knowing that he’s not going to dramatically change his line, drift down the straight, or try a high-risk passing manuever.

Fortunately I am spoiled by being part of a club where the junior level karters have been extradordinary to be on the track with.

[Author]

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