Many years ago I would put two chassis side by side with the noses sticking out the right side of the bed over the fender and the bumpers down in the bed. Slide fold up kart stand, tool box underneath. Pile fuel jug, tires, and air tank around karts.
Did this to test at local tracks after school or work.
They are an IAME part. Available from any IAME dealer.
We are updating the picture to the current part. Currently have the one for air cooled engines shown.
This may be a problem with how you turn the steering wheel.
Most likely you are currently pulling the steering wheel which is pulling your torso away from the back of the seat. You are using your core to hold yourself in position.
You need to push on the steering wheel to turn. The hand/ arm motion is a mix between a pushup and a cross (punch). You should be able to feel the steering wheel flex under your hand.
If done correctly you don’t have to wrap your fingers around the steering wheel. Just use your palms.
This will force your upper body back into the seat and you will stay fixed in position.
Soichiro Honda first created a piston ring company. Then developed into motorcycles, cars, and all sorts of combustion engines.
He focused on R&D so lots of radical ideas were implemented and tested in real world settings.
Did a little research. First Honda using oval pistons was 1979 NR500 GP motorcycle. Production for public sale was 1992 with 90 degree V-4 750cc for a paltry $50k. <!–nextpage–>
Honda has built experimental engines with square and rectangle pistons. The Oval piston engine was a production engine in a motorcycle. Anyone could purchase one with enough $$$ as it was a race homologation special. It was a V-4 engine designed within the rules that did not allow 8 cylinder engines.
As you stated its for non-karters to use as a play toy I would leave the gearing alone. Most likely they will not be able to maximize corner speed and would need the extra teeth to get decent acceleration. 15,600 is still fairly low on a Leopard. We routinely use them at 16,800 without any failures.
If these are at the tread rubber sidewall junction they are not a problem at all. Time and exposure to things like ozone lead to the drying of the rubber and small cracks appear in this area where small amounts of the sidewall rubber and tread rubber combine in the vulcanizing process.
If the cracks are in the main part of the sidewall this can be a bigger issue and the tire shouldn’t be used. Air leaks can develop.
If cracks are in tread rubber themselves then tire has most likely been exposed to tire treatments and it has degraded the rubber and should not be used.
I have used tires with joint cracking many times.

