[Dan Brown]

Would you take $50 for the pair mailed to 13316 New York?

[Dan Brown]

I am interested in both IAME engines if they are not sold yet. Dan Brown  eldiabloracing@hughes.net

Thanks

[Dan Brown]

Yes I have , and will do that today. I was working in the shop yesterday afternoon after Easter dinner and thought maybe someone had the info handy .

[Dan Brown]

[quote quote=77805]I have a complete one as well. I was told it was only 2-3 races on it. I race Laydowns with axle clutches. $10 plus shipping [/quote]

Mike I sent you a Private Message.

 

[Dan Brown]

I bought a Mychron 4 off this guy on EBAY a while back, he pulled the exact same scam and shipped it to the wrong address, said Paypal and Ebay gave him the wrong address. I filed a Paypal protest and won. Looks like this might be business as usual for this guy. Lots of great people in the karting community, apparently he is not one of them.

 

[Dan Brown]

Craig I have a bunch of used seats , but I am about 45 minutes North of Syracuse. If you come out this way for some reason get ahold of me, I can meet you someplace. I won’t want much for one, depending on the seat $20-40.

Dan

[Dan Brown]

Brand new Fireball engine packages are around $1500, they are a very reasonably priced TaG package. Used ones on here typically bring around $500-$600.

[Dan Brown]

Thank you.

[Dan Brown]

Thanks for the info Nik. When you say the M4 mounting holes were 90 degrees off, do you mean the ones you mounted were drilled different or did you turn the base plate 90 deg. and mount it? If you turned it that would make the camber move on the serrated teeth and the caster adjust by the grub screws. I would think that would work fine as my ikart uses grub screws to adjust both ways without an issue.

Dan

[Dan Brown]

I agree, in my opinion the whole situation was handled poorly. Regardless of why the competitors were delayed, there is no way that the mechanics of one team have any right to block the grid or stop  someone from entering the track, that is a call only a race official can make. As far as the mechanic pulling a drivers plug wire, he should be ejected and banned. No one except an official or a member of a drivers own team has a right to touch that teams equipment.

I understand the rules of not being ready and presenting yourself on the grid at the correct time, but if the drivers were ready and an officiating issue such as checking bumpers delays over the half the field from entering the grid, then the race director needs to address those issues with his staff, not handle the problem by not allowing the racers to compete. And if two drivers were able to start their karts and get past the people trying to block them, why were they allowed to compete when the others sitting there patiently and respectfully were denied?

With this being a large international event, and teams spending incredible amounts of money and making the commitment to travel and race this event, I would think that the race director and the event staff would do a much better job than this in officiating the event and dealing with circumstances as they present themselves. This is a black eye on our sport, and when situations like this are handled this poorly, everyone loses.

[Dan Brown]

Yes I did , sorry been crazy busy here trying to get ready for the AKRA Grand Nationals in Florida next week. I will email you.

 

[Dan Brown]

Ambrose I am going to try and make it Friday, I will let you know tomorrow night. I moved my seat forward and down, re-scaled the kart putting the rear weight at 60.5% . I watched some video of myself in the kart and I now believe that the extra height of the XLT Ribtect plus the tighter fit against my upper body is causing too much lift on the inside rear tire. The Ribtect is around 3″ higher than the Tillet and the Lightning Light seats I have. Plus I slid around a little in the other two seats, I found myself pushing my hips into the outside of the seat and gripping the wheel hars to keep myself stationary. The Ribtect has me locked into the kart, I feel like I am part of the kart instead of sitting in it. But I think the extra leverage being applied by the taller seat and the tight fit is hurting my corner exit. I am going to start by removing my struts, I have dual seat struts on each side. I think that is going to make a huge difference in how the kart reacts. I would actually like to go too far and set the kart up tight, and then work backwards until I find the sweet spot. I feel I am really close, and when I hit on the correct setup  am going to love this kart even more than I do now. Just my luck , Racing season up north here is almost over, by the time I get it all figured out snow will be covering the track!

[Dan Brown]

Kyle can you email pics of chassis to eldiabloracing@hughes.net

Thanks. Dan

[Dan Brown]

Thanks again Craig, I really appreciate the advice.

 

[Dan Brown]

Ambrose, I am not going to be able to make it tomorrow. I will p.m. you my cell phone # so we can plan another day hopefully in the next week or two.

 

[Dan Brown]

Ambrose, not positive yet I am going to make it, I will let you know tonight. If I do come I have a tire machine in my trailer and a compressor so mounting new tires is no problem. It is about 3 1/2 hours from here so I will have to leave pretty early and make arrangements for my kids to get on the bus.

[Dan Brown]

Craig, thanks for the response. The ikart tunes so differently from all our other karts. Both of our Margays and my CRG are tight at Avon, the ikart is crazy loose. I am around 4 seconds off the pace, it is so loose. I am using Gary’s front end setup now, and it feels great on corner entrance but the apex off loose condition is always there. Front ride height on this kart is almost unadjustable, because if I drop the front end down from all the way up even 1 spacer the nose hits the track, at Avon it hits in the hairpin. In April I rented the track for a day to practice for the AKRA event, and I destroyed a brand new Buru nose when it hit the track in the hairpin after dropping the front end down 2 spacers. If I increase rear tire pressure to anything above 11 lbs hot, it is undriveable it is so loose. I usually start at 9 right, 9.5 left and then check after they are at temp and adjust. On Vega Blues I  start at 8.5 on the right. Gary and John Martin both agreed that the ikart loves rear weight, and running rear percentages around 65% seems to work the best. The chassis has an insane amount of front end grip, just point it wherever you want the front end will go there with no complaints. When I get the rear end to stick and follow along with the front I am going to love this kart. Gary was able to get his dialed in and was extremely fast, and I watched Sage Karam put on a show in one, he was untouchable he was so smooth. As far as lift at Avon, I get a great lift on entrance, but when the rear tire washes out the inside tire drops quickly. When that happens the result is usually a push/kick. I think it would be extremely hard to get the kart so tight that the front end pushed much at all. The front grip exceeds the rear grip so the usual result is the rear snapping loose. I may move the seat back  one more time, trying to get it around 65% like John recommended.

[Dan Brown]

Maybe I will drive down to OVRP on Friday and test with you, maybe two heads together can hit on a great setup.

 

[Dan Brown]

I removed the front crossbar and it helped dramatically. That bar is solid aluminum, not tubing like the rest of the chassis. I have never seen that before. Gary Peterson gave me the front end setup ideas, he has raced an ikart in Gearup for a couple years , until he switched to Kosmic for this season.  My seat is a Ribtect XLT , I started at 26″ back and flush with bottom of frame rails. Have since moved it back to the rear holes on the mounts, and have gone up with it. Next step is to move it down, but I am afraid it will rub on the tracks bad as the waist of these frames flex a lot. Steve Gressell bought a 2016 ikart, just told me he removed all the caster , ran zero toe and it pushed bad. He then added caster one turn of the grub screws at a time until the push went away and it rotates and bites great. He did say that he had a Tillet seat and it drove the best it ever did. The seat cracked so he just switched it to the ikart carbon fiber and it lost rear grip and started the hopping in the corners, so he now needs to find a new sweet spot to run it at.

[Dan Brown]

Ambrose, thanks for replying. We have been down to OVRP once this season, as well as Cherry Valley and Avon half a dozen times and even got a practice day in up at St.Lawrence Motorsports Park. I am thinking what we are experiencing is just an unwanted condition built into the ikart. I have spoken with several drivers who have run them on these same tracks, and it is a common response to hear that the steering feels extremely heavy and the rear end is consistently loose.  I removed some of the Ackerman  and caster, as well as going to zero toe and that lightened the steering up a lot, it feels much better but still not exactly to my liking. The T5 rear axle setup with the long hubs and dual struts seems has given me the best results in the rear so far, but I am looking for a lot more rear grip. I watched your video and it looks really familiar! Because of the constant oversteer on exits and you having to countersteer at every corner, it throws the entrance to the next corner off. Instead of concentrating on hitting my marks and trying to set up a pass in a corner, I am just trying to get through the corner with the least amount of lost time. I will readily admit I am not a finesse driver, it isn’t my style. I am more of a bulldozer kinda guy lol! I don’t race dirty and try to avoid contact with other karts always, but I like to get out of the groove and use the whole track to make a pass. I hate having a limited race line that I have to tiptoe on to get around a track. To me, that isn’t racing the competitors, it’s racing the track and that isn’t what I am looking for . The ikart performed the best for me at St.Lawrence, but that is a high speed track with sweeping corners and not nearly as tight and technical as the other 3 tracks. The heavier steering actually felt great, it helped stabilize the kart at the higher speeds while my CRG seemed to dart around more.

The reason I thought maybe I am overloading the outside rear tire is partly the same as you said, I destroy that tire long before the other 3.  Also I ran at Cherry Valley about a month ago and during the first heat the kart was driving the best it ever had. I had on a brand news set of MG Yellows and was running real good lap times, within a few tenths of the leaders which is great for me. I kept getting slower every lap, and the kart seemed to get sluggish on acceleration. When I pulled in the pits I realized I had slid the rear axle 1 1/2″ to the left. The kart turned fantastic to the right with the extra width on the left side. I installed axle collars to help prevent it , and the first time back on the track was last weekend, running the same MG’s. After about 30 laps the right rear was junk again, and the oversteer got worse every lap. The pic I posted was taken on the day the axle slid, that pic is in the start of the right hander where the kart actually handles really good.

[Dan Brown]

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153867186554091&set=pcb.1637410956575502&type=3&theater

I will try it, thank you. I am starting to think that I may have gone too far with stiffening the rear axle, moving the seat back, longer hubs etc. I think I may be overloading the outside rear tire, asking more out of it than it is able to give. I have noticed that I am getting a very short life out of the rears, and that they show some coning on the inside corners.  I tried something today that I am not sure has been tried on an ikart yet. I welded in two pieces of 32mm tubing and added a rear clamp in flat bar off my CRG Kali. On the CRG in the vertical position it binds the chassis up tight, but when I clamped it in the ikart it basically does nothing. No matter if it’s in flat  or vertical it feels basically the same, maybe a touch worse.Here is a pic of me at speed heading into a right hander, it feels perfect here, but apex out it just gives up any and all rear grip.

 

 

[Dan Brown]

2 struts per side, rear ride height is all the way down. I have experimented with different widths, but have not tried removing seat struts, so I will give it a try.

 

[Dan Brown]

It has been  a while since I posted on this topic, but I am still having some problems with tuning so I thought I should re-address it. I Removed the Lightning Light seat and put in a Tillett T8 1/4 padded in an xxl size. This was on the last week of March. I drove the Ikart at our local track that weekend, it was only 40 degrees out and the snow had just melted, I was the first kart on the track for the season. The ikart drove okay, much better than the Tony Kart or the Margay did for me. The Tillett seat was too large, I found myself sliding around too much  and as my weight kept shifting in the corners it made the kart very unpredictable. I then proceeded to destroy me shoulder at work and had reconstructive surgery the next week which took me off the track for several months. I purchased a carbon fiber Ribtect XLT seat and installed it. I love the seat, it holds me in place perfectly. But the rear grip on the ikart went away badly. The kart starts to rotate perfectly, it just floats into the corners. But from apex out the rear just washes out, I can’t keep the rear tires planted in the track and get off a corner with any speed. I went from a Swift T1 soft, To a T3 and a T5 in medium and med/hard. I have the med/hard in it now with long hubs, and although it is slightly better it still isnt great. I have changed rear widths in and out, running 54.5 now. I removed caster and went to neutral, have 2 degrees positive camber and zero toe. This front end setting gives me nice even tire wear, a great stable feeling on the track and really lightens the heavy feel of the ikarts steering and removes some of the insane front grip these karts have. I have the front width as narrow as possible with 80mm front hubs installed. I have 62% rear weight, 38% front and side to side scaled almost perfectly at 50%. Running MG yellows and a Leopard Tag, best results are rears at 9lbs starting pressure. I recorded my last few runs in video, the inside rear appears to lift at entrance, then the outside rear tire washes out, the inside tire starts to drop back down, then the outside gains grip again and it happens over and over. In slow motion the rear of the kart appears to chatter up and down or flex almost snake like. 2 of my buddies bought new 2016 ikarts and we raced together yesterday. One has a Tillett, the other has an Ikart brand carbon fiber seat. The tillett equipped kart seemed much more stable, the carbon fiber kart seemed to hop in the corners too but was still better than mine. I love the feel on my body of the ribtect, it allows me to run many more laps without my body hurting as quickly as  it does in other seats, so I really do not want to change it. Any tuning suggestions?

 

[Dan Brown]

Steve rotate it until it reaches the piston reaches top dead center. I havent worked on a RokTT before but I am guessing the long line will be lined up when the piston is at TDC. The shorter line will be when you want the ignition to fire, prior to it reaching TDC.

Dan

[Dan Brown]

I bought 3 cheapies off Ebay over the winter. They just dont seem to last very long at the track, 5 or 6 starts is all they are good for. I was wondering if the more expensive ones last longer. I guess for the price I could have half a dozen of these charged in the trailer and just swap them after a few starts.

 

[Author]

Posts