[Christiaan Bouhuys]

All 3 seats sold. Thank you.

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

^ forgot to mention: I use the Beta wrench in combination with the Motion Pro torque wrench adapter.

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

Chris,

You need a thin 12mm wrench. I initially bought the MotionPro adapter but that doesn’t really fit either. Normal ‘car’ wrenches are too thick and will not fit.

I ended up using the 12mm Beta wrench which is nice and thin and fits 95% of the times: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=10726

I also know of people that grind off the end of the wrench to make it fit. But I would get the Beta wrench and be done with it.

Good luck…

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

PM sent

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

Guys…make me an offer I can’t refuse..!

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

Hi Dan,

Apologies for my late response, I apparently had turned off EKN email notifications…

The seat dimensions can be found here: https://www.tillett.co.uk/shop/documents/downloads/Kart%20seat%20dimensions%202014(1).pdf

Look for Tillet T9.5 size XL. These dimensions should be all you need.

Let me know.

-Christiaan

 

 

 

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

Make me an offer..!

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

Not all drivers are (created) equal…:). Have a top level (fast and consistent) driver drive these various engines and he will show/tell you they are quite different and one is undoubtedly better and faster than the other.

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

I agree the best solution by far of fixing the ’01 issues is changing the fuel. Here on the east coast fuel is open and we have been running C12 instead of MS98 on the (SKUSA-spec) stock honda package and it does solve all the issues with detonation on the ’01 cylinder.

And I cannot think of any downside to changing the fuel spec from MS98 to C12 other than people (or SKUSA) being stuck with existing inventory of MS 98. So maybe the spec fuel for S-5 can remain MS98 (I don’t think they have the level of detonation issues the other classes have).

I agree with Stephen that we should start a petition and get this over to SKUSA. Surely they must listen if enough (top-level) drivers get behind this…

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

John,

I had no issues (was way under the sound limit) last year with stock moto. Only difference to your set-up is that I used a 14″ silencer and the blue two hole freeline airbox.

Two thoughts:

1. Your silencer packing may be gone, try to repack the silencer. If that does not help try a 14″ silencer (maybe with downturn end pipe), RLV sells a special quiet silencer if I remember correctly

2. Try the freeline airbox. It should be better than the 4-hole RLV anyway (the freeline is the airbox of choice for stock moto).

 

Good luck.

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

Mal,

Don’t take it personal. CR just loves an argument and you just can’t win as he has way more time on his hands to browse these forums than anyone else and he is willing to engage in endless rebuttals without much regard for factual accuracy or consistency of position (anything to win an argument).

It’s a pity some people are here just to get their personal satisfaction of being an online forum bully instead of having an open-minded conversation and trying to help other people.

-CB

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

I read that. My point is valid with the ‘if’. No glasses needed.

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

CR:

#1 now contradicting yourself? earlier you said it was not possible and now it is and now your argument (for arguing’s sake) becomes ‘so why is it special’? Dude…

<span style=”line-height: 1.5em;”>#2 I think that’s the key. Using a karting engine with stock exhaust which is designed for a broad and driveable powerband. Having that engine make 55hp (vs. close to 50 with carb) is an achievement.  </span>

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

http://www.elsberg-tuning.dk/engineering.html

http://www.fasterandfaster.net/2007/06/ktm-vs-suzuki-125cc-gp-racer-vs-1000cc.html

 

And many more google search resuls on ‘max hp 125cc motorcycle GP’

This was 2007, 55hp with 125cc w/carburetor. We are 7 more years of development ahead and with EFI this looks totally possible.

Also there was a topic 1-2 years back about TecSav putting out 50hp with their KZ engines under KZ rules (30mm carb).

This forum seems to be a place where whatever you say people will argue with you just for arguing sake. The 55hp was not ‘made up’ by a EKN user, it was from a press article in a karting magazine.

Now let the flaming and arguing begin (again) :P

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

The key here is that is makes 55hp with a 38mm carb. The best KZ’s with normal 30mm carbs make close to 50hp so 10% gain by going to 38mm and EFI is not that much of a big step up

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

I agree, get the longer bed. I bought a used Tundra doublecab with 8ft bed although I was not specifically looking for a long bed. I soon realized things would be a lot more uncomfortable had I bought a standard bed. With the 8ft bed, I can fit my tools, spare tires, and airtank in the front, fit the kart in without taking any parts off, and put the folded-up kart stand and fuel supply in the back while being able to close the hatch. I have a hard cover on the bed that keeps things dry and safe and closes almost all the way if it would not be for the kart stand wheel sticking out a couple of inches.

I use the space in the cab for a folding table and chairs, a few boxes of supplies and tools and my cooler and my racing bag.

I can put just about enough in my truck for all I need for a 2-day racing weekend and would not be able to with a standard/smaller bed.

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

Ray,

The way the piston top looks at the intake side tells you about the mixture of the pilot; the way the piston top looks at the exhaust side tells you about the mixture on the main jet.  I don’t exactly know about the physics behind it, it just seems to work this way…

-Christiaan

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

Ray, I look for the right color on spark plug first (I like to see light cafe latte color), then on piston top. Piston top for me is more a matter of looking for signs the mixture is off (wet/dark = too rich; signs of detonation (pits, peppery metallic looking deposits) then looking for color to determine the optimal jetting (too hard anyway looking through spark plug hole with LED light).

As long as the piston top shows the engine is jetted within the ‘normal’ range (i.e. showing no signs of being too rich or too lean) I then make small jetting changes and decide on what feels best / most strong while keeping an eye on spark plug color and piston top to make sure I am not getting too lean.

I am by no means an expert engine tuner that finds the exact magical jetting every time but what I do at least ensures my engine runs good and safe.

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

Bill,

In my experience  it takes more than two jet sizes down to go from a rich bog to a lean pop situation. A rich bog means you are a couple of jet sizes too rich from optimal, and from optimal to lean pop is probably another 1-2 jet sizes.  If the bog with the bigger main jet occurred when opening the throttle after it being closed for >1s,  you may be running to big of a pilot jet and should have gone down in pilot jet instead of main.  But best advice is always to look at the piston top, it should be able to tell you what the mixture (lean/good/rich) is on pilot (intake side) and main jet (exhaust side).

[Christiaan Bouhuys]

Stock moto at 405lbs:

Liberator with chicane CCW: ran low 37s last Saturday while doing engine testing and not focusing on chassis set-up.  High 36s are possible with dialed-in chassis.

Tempest CCW with chicane mid to high 1.06’s. Tempest is not run CW as far as I know.

Avenger CCW high 31s.

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