Here’s my “any input”…  I would not suggest widening the front or adding caster as it would increase the jacking and keep the inside rear from helping with your drive off sooner.

Do others run the Mojo Reds?  I’ve never run them myself but it might be worth trying higher pressures (say 14 and/or 16 psi hot).  If 12 psi hot is the absolutely place to be with tire pressures (or it doesn’t get better with higher pressures) than I would suggest narrowing the rear and going to a medium or long hub.  If this doesn’t help than you might want to try without the front bar in.

Do you have any seat struts mounted?

I too have had a similar problem- TAG Leopard- Mg Yellows- finally decided that if I could get inside tire to set down quicker, it would help. Tightened the rear bumper and bar- better. Made axle stiffeners out of PVC, for a quick ck, problem gone. Little stiffer axle now, and like what I feel. I’m not real smart, so listen closer to these other guys!

I think it will be telling when you swap over to new yellows.  (make note which end the fast drivers are wearing out first, front or rear tires)  I would suggest going back to a medium hub with the new tires and tune from there.

If it does continue with new tires than I would suggest doing the things to add rear grip by narrowing the rear, going to longer hubs, lower the rear ride height (axle up), and adding another set of seat struts.

Ambrose,

I’m not familiar with the track there, but it looks like you are VERY low on entry to some of those corners. It also looks like you aren’t pushing very hard. If I may ask, how far are your times off the leaders?

The reason I ask is because it doesn’t look like push-kick that you are experiencing. It looks like you aren’t on the limit that the kart requires to work and flex properly.

Also, it’s basically impossible to try and tune a kart on old worn out tires. It isn’t going to react the way it’s supposed to on old rubber.

First thing I would do if you want to attempt to fix the oversteer, is to narrow the rear by 5mm each side and see if you can get the outside rear tire to dig harder. But my gut feeling is once you switch to a fresher set of MG Yellows, it will completely change the kart. My advice would be to leave it at a standard neutral setup and put the new tires on and see what it does first and go from there. Depending on temperature, probably aim for 9-11 on tire pressure at 405 pounds on Yellows.

The thing that sticks out to me is your hands are extremely smooth during your turn-in and I don’t see you trying to “jerk” the steering to get the kart to turn in more.

This combined with the things that stand out to me (short rear hubs, only one strut per side, loose rear bumper, and max rear width) as reducing rear grip, are what prompted my responses.

Cheers and please let us know what you end up finding out! :)

Ambrose,

Yes, it looked like you were early apexing a lot of the corners and swinging out way wide on exit, especially compared to some of the karts around you.

All sounds good to me. The 9-11 psi I referenced was cold starting pressure. Report back and let us know what you learn.

Something to consider:

This track has a number of corners that are heavily painted near the apex. The kart actually seems to understeer off corners that are not painted. Most of the oversteer occurs coming off the painted corners. As the heat goes on, it appears that you are consciously (or unconsciously!) adjusting to those corners by slowing through many of the painted sections and “straightening them out”.  I agree that the new tires may help considerably and moving the rears in slightly should help with the oversteer but I’d be curious to know how much oversteer remains on an unpainted apex with newer tires. Also, I wouldn’t waste much time trying to dial in handling until you change the tires. Agree that narrowing the rear would be my first change if oversteer remains. Best of luck.

What stands out to me is that you are having to put a lot of steering into the right hand corners but the kart is so aggressive on the left hand corners that you are counter steering most of the time. This would likely be due to a cross weight issue or an issue in the steering alignment. The most common cause would be that the steering shaft is bent or was not centered properly when the toe was adjusted. If the steering shaft is slightly off to one side when you “Square up” the toe it will cause the steering to be lazy one way and aggressive the other.  It only takes a small offset to have a big affect on the cornering. Other issues that can cause this are having different tire pressure on different corners or having a worn out tire compared to other tires. The circumference of the worn tire would be less and would change the weighting of that corner.