You didn’t say how you are gauging the lift, just by the feel of steering wheel resistance?
I’ve done what you’re saying under very controlled conditions in the shop. It can be off a good bit and still feel right. Also, I didn’t go lock to lock, I set up a pointer and a protractor. Manufactures don’t try to make the lock points equal, it just ends up real close because of modern manufacturing.
If you just want a down and dirty way to check it at the track after a bump then go for it. If you’re setting it up in the shop to be the ultimate chassis I’d look at it different.
Gif