An “engine builder” I used to know ran his motors on dirt with no air filter for a while to try to accomplish the same thing…   YMMV…lol

You guys are talking foolishly. What you are looking for is something that does not exist. The only thing faster you will find with such nonsense is shorter engine life. Cripes !!!!

Foolish

Best way to “loosen” up a LO206 (or any OHV Briggs engine) is to drive it more. Get out there and run a million laps, have your buddies drive, let new people try it out. Don’t worry, the engine can take it. These ain’t no sloppy-loose flatheads anymore!

Best way to be fast in a LO206 ( or anything for that matter ) is seat time. Best way to spend money in karting.

I regard posts offering BS ways to make things “better” the equal to falsely shouting “fire” in a theater. This causes racers new to the sport to think they are getting bankrolled to last place on the grid rather than realizing seat time is the key to better their performance. There is always the guy “with the answer”  for those that feel they can buy their way to the front. It especially infuriates me when discussed in the LO206 forums. There is no magic diet pill!!!

Only “magic dust” I ever heard of that was effective was in the hands of Cheech & Chong !!

Oh believe me, I didn’t buy engines from said “builder”…  However, didn’t BMW use iron oxide for break-in via water baths of the cylinder liner or something like that?  Seems like I read about it and decided, “not in mine!”

Extrudehone, on the other hand, might be worth the $$…

Walt, no doubt people try stuff in secret. Great, keep it a secret and don’t spread BS thoughts that are meaningless. I guarantee people trying this are wasting time, money, and effort, yet this concept will give people thinking of entering the sport reason to doubt their ability due to these far out ego building statements.

I’m not a certified jet engine and aircraft tech, people who know me are aware of my knowledge and ability. I’ve been around racing my entire adult life and an blessed to know some great engine minds. ( I’m 68 ) I know BS when I see it! Don’t mean this to be a personal attack in any way, just trying to keep grassroots racing growing. Comments such as yours belongs in the clone trick of the week, something for nothing category.

How are you going to know how much of this dirt you need to put in the engine? A little bit is good?? A lot more must be better??? How are you going to make sure it wears the cylinder evenly? Top and bottom? Thrust sides and the other sides.

First off, most engine builders would likely tell you that the cylinder to piston clearance is much larger in a stock engine than what we use when we can build from scratch.  Why do I want a looser fit?  It would seem what you’re really looking for is less ring tension.  However, by this grit method, you would achieve less resistance by loosing ring seal.  Not good.  Compression is king on these engines.

Speaking of compression, what kind of damage will you be doing to the valve seats as the grit is smashed into the seat by the valves resulting in serious pitting.  You may be able to cut/grind the seats enough to get rid of the pitting, although you might be surprised.  Again, the minimal gain you might get will be offset by the loss of valve seal = Not good.

Anyone that would suggest running them in the dirt has never taken apart a utility engine used on a cement mixer, tiller, etc. apart. The grit going in with the intake acts just like a sand blaster, literally hitting one side of the port, valve and cylinder and etching it deeply. Putting this in the oil is also counter productive, there are many parts you do not want abraded.

Loose LO206 engines work well but new out of the box show the best.

WOW !

Walt,

The LO206 classes (as well as World Formula) were made for people that don’t want to do the kind of things you’re talking about. They want an appliance. Something you bolt on and nearly ignore. Whether it’s because you a newby with enough to learn already or a more experienced karter who just wants to step back from the “bleeding edge” of constant research, testing and upgrades.
If that is the kind of thing you want to do the regular Stock and Modified classes are what you want. The class is designed to be a “change the oil and adjust the chain” only class. To do those kinds of things in a class like LO206 is just plain cheating even if it doesn’t help.

You don’t need to add grit then flush it out, just use this:

http://www.newmantools.com/lapping/time.htm

Just add it to the oil and then forget it.  Innovation within the spirit of the rules, everyone is happy!