First Race prep (photo intensive)

This topic has 5 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 2 months ago by Walt Gifford.

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- May 23, 2015 at 4:42 am #48755
  
  Ted Hamilton
  Participant
  
  IIRC, EVERY braking and steering bolt must be safety wired. Overkill, if you ask me. The Europeans seem to get by fine with nylocks and frequent checking, but they also build and rebuild their kart far more often than we tend to… So… Be prepared to break quite a few 1/16″ drill bits! LOL
  
  I’ve successfully drilled some of the bolts by hand, on the kart. I sacrafice one nylock (per bolt size) and loosen it a few turns then drill through the nylock and bolt. Then the nylock serves as a guide for all other bolts of that size that I need to drill.
  
  I use lots of oil and a relatively high load and low speed to prevent heat building and work-hardening of the bolt, which makes drilling next to impossible. Alternatively, you can remove the bolt and use a commercially available safety wire guide device. I was too cheap to get one and devised my method above… (Actually, it was borne of having to drill a lot for the next day and not having the device…)
  
  Hope that helps. Welcome to the addiction!
  
  Cheers,
  
  ~Ted
- May 23, 2015 at 4:44 pm #48778
  
  Jose Torres
  Participant
  
  Thanks Ted for the response
- June 12, 2015 at 12:00 pm #49780
  
  Walt Gifford
  Participant
  
  Check the link. The bolt holding your steering block you want to keep that as short as possible and keep the head on the left side.
  
  https://new.ekartingnews.com/forums/topic/drilling-a-bolt/
  
  Gif
- June 13, 2015 at 6:31 pm #49811
  
  Jose Torres
  Participant
  
  Thanks for the link
  
  I cross drilled most of the nut/bolts that weren’t already e clip/cotter pinned.
  
  We had our first race last week at cal speed and our pit crews (me) inexperience showed . My drivers axle shifted on the bearings losing his brakes, the crg floating disc design has some flaws , thanks to fellow racers at Rebel Mutt Karting for loaning us a set of floating disc pins , that allowed us to continue racing that day. On the main my driver found himself with a throttle that wouldn’t return shut. No it wasn’t the throttle return spring it was the bolt/ nut assembly that attached the throttle pedal to the frame it seemed to have tightened on itself to the point it would not return shut , that was around lap 9 of 16 , he about 5 seconds off pace and losing ground when it took us out for the race. We had fun ,thanks to the friendly racers of the f100/tricity clubs for making us feel welcomed . We learned a lot I’ll post pics and do a proper write up hopefully this will help other newbies like us
- June 13, 2015 at 8:03 pm #49814
  
  Walt Gifford
  Participant
  
  I’ve seen that problem. I grind down the pedal so it’s shorter than the stud so you can tighten the nut and the pedal’s still free. Don’t know why they don’t make the studs longer.
  
  Gif
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