New to Karting, looking for Top Kart HPV/KPV pointers

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    • May 17, 2015 at 4:38 pm #48362
      Andres Malovos
      Participant

      Hi All,

      I’m new to karting and have picked up a 1999/2000 Top Kart. The person I purchased from also bought it used, so not totally sure on its year. It has a HPV/KPV engine.

      I’m curious if anyone has experience with Top Kart’s from that era and any chassis pointers like alignment specs to share. I can send pictures if you need to see anything on the kart.
      Any baseline chassis setups that were go to would be helpful.

      Also curious on the engine front, any tricks and tips?

      I have a solid package to get started. The engine performs well, I have a Mychron 3 to collect data. Two sets of mag wheels, one aluminum set, some used practice tires, RLV exact toe alignment tool, spare coils, stater, sprockets, clutch, etc. Any must haves?

      I don’t see much in the way of service manuals so any hard learned track knowledge is very much welcome.

      Does the K71, HPV, KPV share engine parts? Can you re-ring the motor, curious as all I’m seeing are piston/ring combo’s.

      Thanks,

      Any info is welcome

       

       

    • May 18, 2015 at 9:00 am #48404
      Jim Derrig
      Participant

      Andres, I had a 1997 Top Kart at one point, though it was a “Top 125” shifter.  It was nigh indestructable, but very stiff, which might not be the best for your relatively low-power engine.  The good news is that the parts can still be got, as most of them are generic rather than unique to TopKart.

      Regardless, your alignment specs are going to depend as much on the track you race as on the brand of chassis.  I’d go to the track with a neutral front pills, 4mm of toe out, a medium axle and hubs, front and back track at maximum, center ride height (i.e., very standard starting point) and take it from there.

    • May 18, 2015 at 10:18 am #48409
      Andres Malovos
      Participant

      Thanks Jim, I’ve heard all positives about the topkarts, so that’s definitely reassuring.

      You’re totally right, I feel like I just need to start with a neutral setup, and go change by change to learn the influence of each change, and then start the tuning from there.

      There is a pretty big learning curve here, but it’s my kind of thing.

      4mm is more than others have suggested (starting at 0), but I’ll quickly find out how changes feel.

      Keep the info coming…

    • May 18, 2015 at 10:55 am #48411
      Jim Derrig
      Participant

      Regarding the toe, you haven’t said whether you are road racing or doing sprint.  The 4mm would be a typical sprint set up as the numerous tight turns  call for enhancing the ackerman affect.

      Keep in mind that all of your fine tuning should be done with the tires you will be racing on.  Nice that you got some obscure dunlops for cheap, but they may or may not be close to what you eventually use.

    • May 18, 2015 at 11:10 am #48416
      Andres Malovos
      Participant

      Oh good point. Our local track is 7/10’s of a mile. Maybe 6 or so seconds wide open on the straights. I’m assuming that’s a sprint track? Road racing would be full sized circuits like Laguna Seca?

      I have lots of old tires to lap with, and then these new rears. Just not sure how to purpose them, since I can’t get new R5 fronts.

    • May 18, 2015 at 9:32 pm #48450
      Walt Gifford
      Participant

      If you have new R5 rears you want to use just get some DEM fronts 11×5.50×5 or call Russell karting he’ll match them up with something.

      Gif

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