What do you mean tires “pounted outwards”? I interpret this as I’m going through a left hand corner and I have to turn the wheel to the right. I can only think of this happening when the rear is sliding and I’m countersteering (not a pushing condition). As long as it’s not driver induced, having the rear sliding too much leads me to reduce or slow the rate of lift.

For the sake of answering how to increase lift you can increase the front width and increase caster. A front torsion bar should help as well but wouldn’t be my first choice.

Are you expecting to see daylight between the tire and the surface?

Samir,

Everything you’ve listed will increase lift, so you’re on the right path of thinking.

The goal of course is to get enough lift to unload the kart and keep it from binding, but not too much that you start overloading the outside tire and the kart starts sliding or hopping.

The stopwatch is the ultimate test to see if your changes are working.

If the kart isn’t lifting but your driver is managing to get it to slide, it might be his driving more than setup. I’m guessing he likes the front narrower because it causes the kart to slide less. If he slows his hands down a bit, he might like the front wider. It might take a slightly different driving style to adapt to a lot of these changes.

I would try your changes you’ve listed, and also try narrowing the rear track width. If you can’t get the kart to lift with all those changes, your chassis might be tired and may have lost it’s “spring” or your seat placement is incorrect.

The 25mm front spindles will give a little more positive front feel, but it isn’t a big change.

Seat placement is different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Most have a seat placement chart of some kind. It’s based on your driver’s size and aims for somewhere from 41-44% front end weight bias usually, so if you’re in that range, you’re probably good.

One way to see how much lift you will get is to have your driver turn the wheels all the way to one side while sitting in the kart on level ground.  Now grab the inside rear wheel with your hand and give it a lift. Turn the wheel the opposite direction and check the other side to see if it lifts evenly. You can feel how much pressure it takes to lift the wheel. Now go to the outside tire and try to lift it. You can’t. This will give you a basic understanding of how much the front adjustments will influence the inside rear wheel  lift during jacking.

You’re right, the iKart flexes a ton and you’ll need him to slow his hands and feet down with it. I’m sure he’s used to tossing around that old Birel.

Here’s a pretty gnarly photo of me behind Mike Giessen in his iKart a couple years ago. They lift like crazy.
[img]https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/999532_10200575936733198_1145354686_n.jpg?oh=93a03ace6c6201158051f47634d3f2df&oe=5608664E[/img]

Hey TJ, I have a pretty decent handle on making a chassis work, basicly it’s about unloading the inside rear and how long or short of a time that  it stays unloaded.

However after looking at the picture of Giessen you posted and Samir’s description of inside rears lifting 6″ I have to wonder if there is any advantage to the radical lift that we are hearing (and seeing) in this discussion.

Greg,

In my experience, an inch or two of lift is ideal for most corners, but it depends on how tight the corner is, what tires, what weight, etc. With the huge lift, for me it has always really thrown the kart to the outside and overloaded the outside tires. Lots of factors to affect it though. Driving style obviously plays a huge role in it as well.

Personally, if the kart is able to take all that lift and not start hopping or sliding, then it doesn’t matter how high off the ground the inside rear is, as long as it’s up.

Start mounting at the top of the seat and work your way down.

Mount them low and you’ll struggle to get the kart to lift.