I have two nice rocket chassis, both race ready, with Parilla Leopards, gauges etc. Everything you need to hit the track, and be competitive. Due to medical reasons only, we are selling them. I would take $2500 complete for one, to help someone get started. You can call or text me at 417-496-0428. Ric

Since you’re just starting out, I’d see what the locals are running as far as chassis and engines that way if you run into any problems they can help you out.  As far as complete vs roller, there really isn’t a big difference, it’s not too hard to install an engine/wiring harness.  I had a kart shop do mine the first time to make sure I avoided any common mistakes, but after that I’ve taken it off/put it back on multiple times.

My advise to “new to the sport” drivers is to get a good competitive complete kart. You’ll still have your work cut out for you (especially TAG) but you can learn as you go.

It looks easy on paper, but having all the correct parts installed is much easier than hunting down parts and pieces that you’re not 100% sure what it’s called.

It seems cheaper to build your own, but I am a firm believer it will be better to buy complete.

You should be able to get a complete kart from $2500 – $3500 that will be competitive. A newer 2013/2014 will be a but more, but not a bad idea either.

Good luck

Still have both of these karts, wall full of trophies from both. Chassis and motors are ready to go, complete.

Also make sure the kart is well-sorted, whether that be by checking it’s overall condition, or driving it before buying. Nothing worse than buying a kart and having problem after problem to frustrate the heck out of you.

1.  There is very little practical difference between the two Leopards.  Performance is identical.  The upgrades in the 2009 are of debatable value.

2.  Couldn’t tell you.  Rotax made a bunch of updates this year and a major national series (SKUSA) decided to spec the IAME X30 at its TaG motor, so we’re seeing migration.  Probably not very relevant to your situation, except that older Rotax motors and all Leopards might be available for less money than before (thumbs up from your point of view).

3.  Aesthetics only.

I’ll add the observation that you should prefer to find a kart that has been set up for your particular track, as it will save you some major headaches.  I started with a road racing kart and took it to a tight sprint track.  All the money I “saved” was gone because of the changes I had to make, plus I spent months trying to sort it out, all from a position of ignorance.

Also, if you’re not stuck on TAG, check out LO206. Slower, but the class at my track has some seriously fun racing going on in it.