Most Euro kart frames will accept a lot of part from Rigetti Ridolfi (sp), SKM and Wildcart.  Basically, there are a lot more trade names out there than actual kart manufacturers, and many of the parts are defacto standardized, or have common bolt spacing that allow one “brand” to be substituted for another.  So, items like master cylinders, brake rotors, hubs, steering columns and so on are pretty easy to find even if the frame manufacturer (like Hasse) isn’t selling them under its nameplate.

HOWEVER, there are enough differences that if you don’t know what was on the kart originally, you will have a very difficult time figuring out which particular aftermarket part actually fits your exact kart.  You’ll continually be presented with 2-4 options and no good idea as to which is correct until you actually grab the parts and see what fits.  I don’t envy you and I think you’re looking at a lot of frustration.

Finally, these are full competition karts that are not remotely suitable for “bashing around in your back yard,” unless you are particularly fond of broken ribs, injured spines and that sort of thing.  At least, I hope you are not planning on putting anything over about 6hp on this thing if you ever get it running.

Maybe too late since you have the Haas frame, but I were building a backyard dirt oval I’d look into 1/4 midgets.

I’ve rebuilt frames from scratch, but it does help to know what you are dealing with originally… If you’re able, and willing, to fabricate some, it shouldn’t be too hard, but it WILL be time and money consuming.  The question really is — “do I want the satisfaction of building?” or “Do I just want to drive the dang thing?”  Once you answer that, a good parts source can be found in most parts of the country, and the internet makes things just a click away…

Winged outlaw karts are just overgrown Emmick’s, so I wouldn’t worry about the abuse aspect, although I’d check high stress areas for cracks regularly…  And I’d think a GX390 would be plenty of power….or the new 440 big bores.

Good luck, have fun!

Why not just buy this one, and save all the time. frustration and money?

Redding Ca is not that far, shipping through Fastenal is very affordable right now. Or meet the guy 1/2 way.

You may end up spending a lot more money than you care before the project is even done ( just a thought )

http://bakersfield.craigslist.org/mcy/4829419960.html

^^^ this.

You can fit a pretty tall driver on a standard kart chassis; a lot of it is seat positioning.

I agree that building a kart is a lot of fun. Depending on your ambition and skill, you can do quite a bit with just about any race-spec chassis.

To give you an idea, I built a CR-80 powered shifter out of a Coyote Widetrack chassis, complete with updated bodywork and parts straight from factory-spec shifter karts (Coyote doesn’t offer anything for shifter karts). And the entire kart can be returned to a clone-powered setup in one afternoon; there’s not one weld or permanent mod done to the chassis, everything bolts on.

The point I’m trying to make is that it’s important to have a good foundation, regardless of what you’re trying to do. It’s challenging, but extremely rewarding to build something one-off.

Good luck, building (to me) is almost as fun as riding.

Kevin, check your PM. I sent you some info.

I use to race karts cross country through woods and fields. Basically a racing type kart is going to be 1″ off the ground. To run in the yard or a coarsely groomed track you need 4″ of ground clearance and knobby tires. You’re going to be bottoming out and getting stuck every 10 feet.

MM

We have built and rebuilt lots of karts.  You can do it if you have a pipe bender and are a decent welder and it takes a bit of knowledge of karting.  Mild steel, chrome moly whatever.  If you know someone that has a decent kart ask to get a pattern.  Our jigs usually start out on a sheet a plywood, the pattern gets put down, and the pattern gets modified from there depending on what you want to do with the kart.  There are also plenty of places to source parts from and such.  If you are real good they will perform just as well as some of the stuff you can buy.  I’ve won a track championship on our 2nd generation garage made oval kart, and our rebuilt and scratch built vintage kart frames are as good as anything out there.

We now have a fleet of oval karts and other karts.  And yea we have a backyard track that we run on also for fun, in addition to actual tracks.  Clay even a silty clay makes for a decent pack whether oval or otherwise:

My rebuilt 1968 Bug Sprint, it was pretty much a wreck:

And our scratch built from a pattern 1962 Alley Kat 2 replica of kart that is virtually non-existent:  http://youtu.be/PUBoGSspkYw

Our track in this configuration is going on 4 years old and gets better each year as the soil consolidates, although we do have to pick up rocks in the spring.  We have a 500 gallon tote on a little trailer with a pvc header with holes in it that we pull behind a vehicle to water the track.  Depending upon the moisture content of the soil, usually takes 1000 gallons, also depends on how long you want to run.  We also have an old chisel plow, a drag, a really old small farm tractor disc that we use on the track.  A Kubota tractor with a blade. Disc not used so often.  Get everything shaped then pack it.  We’ll sometimes pack with a truck or jeep.  Most of the time just with the karts.

Yea, we run slicks.  On good packed clay that really is all we need with cheap clone, old Harbor Freight, engines.  Plus it does not chew up and rut the track.  Wheels are mostly 6-inch wheels, mostly with cheap used tires that we pick out at swap meets.  Not uncommon that our personal fleet will have Dunlop, a Bridgestone, a Maxxis, and a Burris on it.  Often pretty old tires.  Although we did recently put new Burris 22s on the left rears.  Rights are normally 8.10s or 7.10s, left front 4.5 to 6, left rear normally a 5.  Even on a fun practice oval track like this you want get your stagger right and to run the wide tires on the right side.

We do run our own oval chassis design which are mostly 0.090 to .120 wall tube, pretty heavy tube, the frames we race are normally thinner tube and chrome moly.  If you have a smooth track you should not have to worry a whole lot about breaking welds.