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    • #30259
      Joe Morales
      Participant

      im sorry to track better around the turn. to free up. to grip in the front and grip in the back  but pick up the tire so it is free.

    • #30267
      Ted Hamilton
      Participant

      Wider front increases jacking effect at rear, but narrowing increases grip (usually) so it’s a balancing act. If the rear doesn’t pick up properly you’ll feel like the front is pushing until the rear goes into a snap oversteer, so make sure you analyze what’s happening in each portion of the turn that you want to correct. If you want more grip at both ends, I’d narrow both track widths until you’re almost bicycling. Alternatively, you can leave the track widths alone and raise seat height to increase weight transfer and jacking effect — especially helpful in the rain — but hard to do quickly. Some just sit on an extra pad for rain races…

      Good luck.

    • #30283
      Ted Hamilton
      Participant

      …and FWIW, driving style plays a big part too — perhaps you’re not turning in vigorously enough, or turning in too soon and too gradually. There’s a lot of factors to get handling “right” for the kart AND you and a plethora of adjustments to try (axle flex affects it, Cg affects it, Seat and arm rigidity affect it…etc etc.)

    • #30296
      Anonymous
      Inactive

      The reputable guy you talked to is incorrect, wider front width increases front grip because it accentuates the affect of the caster and will jack more weight to the rear, resulting in more lifting action on the inside rear wheel.

      Narrowing the front will remove weight jacking and give slightly quicker steering response, but it does not increase front grip.

      Other things to increase jacking would be stiffer front bar, more caster, narrower rear, or more seat struts.

      As Ted said, it could also be driving. 6″ wider than standard is pretty far out of the box, you also maybe are so far off in the front that the kart isn’t going to ever cooperate. My first suggestion any time someone can’t figure out a handling problem is to go back to the baseline setup and start over. It’s very easy in karting to keep going down one chassis tuning path and ultimately never get what you want and become so far off the setup that the kart does wonky things and fixing it is impossible.

    • #30323
      Joe Morales
      Participant

      Thank you this helps.

    • #30339
      Gary Lawson
      Participant

      TJ is spot on with his advice. Im guessing the 40″ measurement reference you read was misunderstood. Check again and I’m sure you will find that number to be somewhere between 46-48 probably. Maybe they measure to the center of the tire vs others measuring to the outside…

    • #30352
      Brian Degulis
      Participant

      There are a few different CRG chassis tuning manuals. One of them does say 40″ front width it must be an error.

    • #30388
      Joe Morales
      Participant

      Yes Gary the manual is 46 to 46 1/2 and thank you for your input. I will start 46 and see what it dose. I want the kart as free as possible then I can tune from there. I know how to tighten it up because that all I fight.  AND GARY CONGRATS ON THE WIN!!!!!!

       

      TJ- I was told that by narrowing the front of the cart it creates a triangle effect and lets the inside rear tire pick up off the ground easier. Dose that sound wright?

       

    • #30425
      Anonymous
      Inactive

      Joe,

      This applies to the rear of the kart, not the front. A narrower REAR track width will raise the relative center of gravity by making that side of the triangle shorter (the other sides of the triangle being the seat struts to the bearing carriers).

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