The way you set your chassis up for wet conditions, is pretty much the same for all brands. One off the best setup guides out there is the one from Arrow Karts http://www.racekarteng.com.

If you read that, you will have a much better understanding of what it takes to race in the rain. More often than not, you do not have the time to do all the changes, so what I do is widen the front, short hubs and narrow the rear, take off the seat struts, and I have a rubber mat about 1″ thick cut to fit the bottom of my seat which I sit on, that way I raise my centre of gravity.

Curious why you remove seat stays Steen?

Minus the seat stay debate, I do the same as Steen, with the addition of max caster, increase toe out, loosening side pods and front bumper bolts, and change to soft axle.

The kart needs to flex and work and with no sidebite or grip in the rain, you need to let it be soft and willing to unload the inside rear.

The amount of rain will depend on how far you go on each of these adjustments.

TJ.

Taking off the seat struts loosens up the rear, which helps prevent understeer.

If time allows, i.e. heavy rain all day, I do a complete front end rain setup, which includes max chassis height, full caster, max ackerman, more toe out and full width as well. Basically tighten up the front, loosen up the rear with soft axle, remove seat struts, short hubs and aluminum wheels with rain tires.

What I typically do is loosen the chassis seat stays and leave the chrome ones tight. My thought is that you want to transfer as much weight as possible and try and lean on the seat to plant the outside rear in the corner.

I’ve marked the 6 holes in my seat that I use for the rain set up, which involves moving the seat forward and to a far more upright position.   Because the holes are marked I can move it pretty quickly.  Forward because while rear grip is nice, if you can’t turn you aint’ going anywhere, and slow on exit beats straight off the track every time. :)