I second that. This has been discussed before, and I’m glad someone (Hegar) took the initiative to make it happen.

It also makes the CR125 even more appealing next to all of these TaG-style KZ motors that have recently been released.

Really cool idea. My only concern being a old fat guy as well is I am not sure I have the clearance between my seat and engine to fit the starter. Size large seat only leaves about a 1/4″ clearance.

Sure would be nice though. The Hegar Bros. are innovators.

There are many conservative fuddy-duddies on this forum that are more than willing to shoot down new ideas, until someone who has gained their respect changes their mind.  Little thinking for themselves…

What an awesome product!  I assume you have to charge the battery separately.  I wonder how many starts it’s good for before needing to be recharged.  The weight is not an issue for me as I have to add lead to my kart to meet the minimum anyway.  This sure would make life easier!  $650 is up there though!!!  I’d LOVE to have it but I have gotten so good at starting my stock Honda that I don’t think I could justify $650.00.  MAYBE $400.00.  Most guys I know just spin the rear tires with their hands while the kart is on the stand and then put it on the ground.  If you stall you are SOL!  The electric start could save the entire day/session for us road racers.  Wonder if this will be legal??????

Ray, can you tell me about the offset motor mount?  I’ve got the starter on order and while I don’t know how far it will protrude into the seat area, I’m thinking about just grinding off the curved edge of the seat.  If the motor is moved outward, how will the alignment with the rear sprocket be achieved?   thx

Move the axle gear… no problem

Grind the seat… no problem

It’s a great idea I wish it was around when I started with shifters. I’m solo sometimes or with my youngest son who’s to small to push start and I’m to old to do the push and jump in thing. First I set the engine to idle and put a kill switch on the wheel. I use an electric lift and I make an aluminum plug with a 1/2″ center bolt that fits into the axle on the right side. I put it in 6th gear and spin the axle with a Coleman starter. Then put it in neutral and lower to the ground.

Brian

I’ve never had the need for push button start on my Stock Honda but now that I got one for trial, I’m sold. So easy!!!!
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zE8XmIchHnE

I believe the Sharkshifter mount has more adjustment than any other (3 spacers) and has all features required to be the best mount around.
This is what I use and it’s awesome.
I have the engine with starter mounted on kart with Large seat, heaps and heaps of clearance. Would have no problems with XL seat.
http://sharkshifter.com/zc/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60&products_id=1318

Does anyone have any pictures of this installed – or weight distribution info with the motor moved over?  I’d love to have this for autocross (where there’s a lot of engine start/stops, and not always room for a push start) – but right now I’ve got less than zero clearance between the engine and seat (the corner of my seat is just slightly cutaway to clear the front lip of the flywheel housing), so I know making room will be something non-trival for me.

Also – any chance of someone posting up the dimensions of that plastic cover?  In particular I’d be looking for the thickness of the two “steps” in the cover so I can make a wood block the right size to test fittment before buying the kit.

Has anyone seen the electric starter setup on the Honda motor that utilizes the kick start shaft?  there’s a shifter kart on eBay with this setup.

I’ve wondered the same thing – would eliminate the seat clearance issue.

Here’s a link to the ad: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Evett-Motorsports-custom-shifter-race-karts-INSANELY-FAST-not-for-children-/261565366153?

It looks like this kart has a lot of other modifications as well – such as having a front suspension.  Would be interested to know what was involved in bolting the starter up though…

I have email thus guy on Ebay,  and gave not heard anything from him.

If you look at the pictures(I can repost if needed) it looks like a Tag starter with a aluminum adapter plate.

If you made a run if these, would def be cheaper than the over priced Hegar unit, and less hassle to install for those of us who run 2xl seats.

Overpriced?

Shifter kart racing is not inexpensive.

As a great response I read at Apexspeed stated to a middle income cost complainer; Racing is not for every income.  If it’s too costly, you’re in the wrong class of racing.

Spend for fun and enjoy yourself!

I used my new Hegar CR 125 starter kit this weekend and it was awesome!

Easy to install and so cool to just push a button and start the engine.

Get yours at: http://www.accelerationkarting.com/hegarcr125electricstarterkit.aspx

Mildly amusing how perception changes over time.  Back when I posted about the TM K9ES TaG-ICC in ’06, every other post was about how the battery+starter was just another layer o f complexity, more weight, blah, blah, & blah…

I went ahead & bought a K9ES anyway & couldn’t be happier (Well, EFI would be a step up).  Now it comes to SM & it’s awesome.

If it’s comparable to the TM K9ES, it will work quite well.

Ray, can you tell me about the offset motor mount?  thx

Those individuals claiming a push-button start unecessary have obviously never been to the track solo before.

In fact, I’m certain I’ve mentioned somewhere in the old forum that such a device would be a godsend to stock moto. I’ll admit, the TaG style KZs like the TM K9ES, IAME X30, Sonik Sport, and Vortex Rok, definitely had one plus over the Moto being able to start it with a push of the button. 

I know what Ray is talking about when they said this would be perfect for road racers. Having witnessed the task of a group of shifters lined up on the pit wall, trying to get push-started in a very small amount of space, and then trying to roll back into position, sometimes within a minute before the green waves.

Even though I have no troubles starting myself, I still got mine…..shipped to Australia.

Anyone notice the 10% special offer from Sharkshifter at the moment? Time to grab one now if your considering.

http://sharkshifter.com/zc/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60&products_id=1771&zenid=ccc504601f665294a26805dfcf1359b9

How awesome is the finish, quality and completeness of the kit, yet very light indeed. This really is a game changer for the class, nothing else required, even a freaking battery charger provided. Totally impressive!

[URL=http://s1238.photobucket.com/user/samzavaglia/media/20140321_105813.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff482/samzavaglia/20140321_105813.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Talk about lazy!!!! :)  A block of wood and strap is all I ever used on a 125.  Now make that setup for a CR250, and now your talking!!!

Cool, and nice product as usual Hegar…

Currently mounted on a Regetti Rodolphi chassis (Gold Kart – Viper) and also have mounted on a BRM GPM-66 chassis. Both are current CIK reg European chassis.
This mount allows the sprocket/chain to align very close the the 3rd bearing bolt heads just without the chain touching….ever….under racing loads.
The gearbox sump plug is as close as it can be to the main chassis tube just before it touches about 1/2 half way above the tube’s radius. You can’t mount any further/lower than this, that’s why I recommend this mount based on what I know and see for myself….it is deadly accurate in it’s setup.
I have used this mount on about 25x chassis thus far, never an issue.

Sorry, this is the only photo i got with starter mounted onto the chassis.
[URL=http://s1238.photobucket.com/user/samzavaglia/media/20140323_185942.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff482/samzavaglia/20140323_185942.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Thought I’d post my observations after installing on a CRG Road Rebel. I used the Sharkshifter mount which has room for 3 spacers between case and mount. To make clearance between the starter cover and my large Tillett seat I wanted to move the engine as far outboard possible.  However, I could only fit one spacer on the inboard side, and 2 on the outboard side in order to maintain clearance between the chain and third bearing mount bolt heads.  I looked into low profile bolts there but that doesn’t save enough space to move one more spacer over. I suppose to maximize clearance you could make your own spacers but either way, the front of the seat must move to avoid the starter cover. Makes me wonder if the cover could have been made a bit shorter since every little bit counts to make it fit. If only my ass was narrower!

That said, everything in the kit is of excellent quality and it works like a champ. The battery that comes with it is a Li Ion deal thats incredibly light.  Its a very slick setup.

Yes, its not necessary, but its damn nice to have. I’ll have to scale again to see what this has done to my weight distribution but since the seat movement is largely in the front hopefully its not too bad.

Jeff