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Joe Ricard
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 869 Location: United States, Mississippi,
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Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 10:32 am Post subject: Floor pan question |
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1st I did a search through quite a few pages for floor pan info.
I have an older CRG that I just run local sprint races with. Nothing real serious. 99 Heron Daytona CIK ICC
The floor pan has certainly seen better days and is ripped though one of the mounting holes. Shopped around for a replacement and didn't find anything I was positive would fit and then fell over in a dead faint for the prices of something that "might work"
Can I just go to a sheet metal shop and match up the thickness and the rigidity as close as possible for them to cut me a new pan off the original?
or is this REALLY going to screw me up with a old kart that already doesn't turn for crap. _________________ Arrow AX-8/ Rotax Sr. |
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Ray Lovestead
Joined: 21 Dec 2011 Posts: 156 Location: United States, Colorado, Louisville
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Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 11:31 am Post subject: |
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I just replaced my floor pan the other day. Took about an hour with a drill and band saw. Just use the old one as a stencil and get a sheet of aluminum from a hardware store (same thickness as the old one).
The only tricky part is the bent up sides (if you have that). That can be done using a brake or (if you don't have access to one) just use a block of metal as a straight edge and clamp it to the edge of a table and bend it up.
The floor pan doesn't have any magic properties. It just keep your feet off the deck..
Ray _________________ "Karting Expert Since 2014" |
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Joe Ricard
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 869 Location: United States, Mississippi,
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Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 11:46 am Post subject: |
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I guess as long as I put the rubber washers in between the pan on the frame tabs. By the way there was only one in the kart. I heard that can make a difference.
Well at least it should make the kart look faster right? _________________ Arrow AX-8/ Rotax Sr. |
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Ray Lovestead
Joined: 21 Dec 2011 Posts: 156 Location: United States, Colorado, Louisville
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Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, large diameter rubber washers are really important. That way you can tighten the bolts holding the floorpan "just enough".
Too tight, and you risk (somewhat) stiffening up the chassis.
Too loose, and you get a floor pan that rattles back and forth and eventually chews up and widens the holes in the floor pan. Then you have to throw it away and start over.
I use a combination of rubber washers, "just enough" tightening and blue loctite. That way everything stays put and doesn't bind the chassis.
Ray _________________ "Karting Expert Since 2014" |
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Jeff Salak
Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 624 Location: United States, Illinois, Antioch
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Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 4:25 pm Post subject: |
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I have made 4 or 5 of my own floor pans just like Ray mentioned. You can get a good deal at Roofing/siding metal shop for a stock piece of aluminum same gauge. Bring old one with you so they can measure it up for same gauge.
I have several friends who own roofing companies who have quality brake machine.. They come out perfect just like the factory. For about $30. |
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Joe Ricard
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 869 Location: United States, Mississippi,
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Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 4:37 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks y'all I dropped off my floor pan at the local sheet metal fab shop. They said they can duplicate it no problem out of the same material. 50 bucks. Deal. will be ready tomorrow. now that is the easy button. _________________ Arrow AX-8/ Rotax Sr. |
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