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TAG/Shifter maintenance & operating costs?

 
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Jon Betts



Joined: 18 Jul 2001
Posts: 285
Location: United States, New Mexico,

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 8:00 am    Post subject: TAG/Shifter maintenance & operating costs? Reply with quote

Due to our driver going to college we are thinking of changing from 125cc shifter class to TAG to try and stop the exponental costs we are experiencing with the shifter!. How do the operating and maintenance costs compare? How often would I expect to change top ends and bottom ends what is the cost on say a Sonik or Leopard? Are you allowed to do this yourself?

I know that the engines are weighted to be equal but is there any benifit to a lighter driver (130lbs) driving a stronger engine with more weight?
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People who claim winning isn't everything have obiviously never won anything!
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Jeff DeMello



Joined: 13 Sep 2002
Posts: 2213
Location: United States, Pittsburgh Pa,

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only advantage would be arranging the lead weight on your kart Disadvantage I will not help you lift your kart Wink
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tim finley



Joined: 28 Jan 2003
Posts: 241
Location: United States, Arizona,

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jon,

I have had two shifters, the cost to run them nationaly was staggering. I run my leopard wherever I want and the the cost for motor maintainence for the year is about as much as the motor maintainence for two race weekends with the shifter.

This is not counting a stick because of poor jetting. Other than that, I get about 7-10 hours of racing before I do a topend. I race mostly longtrack so it is a little harder on the motor so I am conserative. For sprint, some of my friends have 15-20 hours on the topend. Great stuff.
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Andy Seesemann
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Joined: 16 Jul 2001
Posts: 3289
Location: United States, California, Fullerton

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jon,

The goal of the TaG concept is to keep the field evenly matched. The only way to do this is by weighing down the faster motors. It seems to me, the best way to decide what motor to run should be based on 2 factors: overall weight considerations with the driver in mind and engine rebuild frequency. It cracks me up watching people jumping on HP numbers every time a new motor comes out. I hear stories from customers that shops quote HP numbers and laptimes to get them to buy the next "latest and greatest". What they don't tell them is that the TaG rules are a living document and if a motor proves itself to be faster, then the rules will reflect that with a weight penalty.

Find the motors that run at a weight that doesn't require your driver to be overweight or have to add a lead factory in order to race. Then pick the one with the longest legitimate rebuild frequency.

I guess the one thing we should add, (looking at some of the posts regarding motor availability) is make sure that you can get parts as well.

I carry the Rotax and the Leopard with this last statement in mind. I can always get parts for these motors and it seems that one of these two fulfills most customers' requirements.

Good luck!

ANDY
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