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Oil ratio
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Tim Doll



Joined: 18 Jul 2001
Posts: 2644
Location: United States, Washington,

PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jordan Chong wrote:

By the way, what about other 2-cycle oil such as those used in chainsaws (Stihl 2-cycle oil)?


Jordan

Never, ever use chainsaw or other "regular" 2 cycle oils in your Yamaha (unless you really enjoy paying for engine rebuilds). A Yamaha Sportsman is relatively mellow by racing engine standards, but it is still a racing engine. The stresses in a racing engine are much, much greater than in a chainsaw or run of the mill motorcycle engine. Non-racing oils are simply not up to the task.

Look at it this way - you might save a couple bucks on the cost of the oil, and spend a couple hundred fixing the resultant damage to your engine. Redline is fine oil - I know many people who use it. I personally choose to run castor, but the differences are relatively small. The differences between even mediocure racing oil and a good chain saw oil are huge.

It is sort of like that old oil filter commercial - you can pay me now (a few dollar more for a good oil), or pay me later (for an expensive engine rebuild).

Tim
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Pete Muller
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Joined: 23 Jul 2001
Posts: 1950
Location: United States, California,

PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2004 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris Hill wrote:
Pete,

Why does the added oil help? My guess would be more frictional related than combustion. As you add the oil, how does the BSFC change?



I suspect that the main benefit is in sealing... primarily in the lower end (crankcase pumping efficiency), though I wouldn't rule out better ring seal too.

Needless to say, the jet needs to be "opened up" on the carb as you add more and more oil (so that you're still getting about the same amount of *gasoline*, though more "fuel mixture").

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don wallace



Joined: 06 Sep 2002
Posts: 47
Location: United States, Texas, san antonio

PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Disclaimer, We are Rookies, 4 hole can, kt 100, starting our second season. Locally everyone uses Motul. Our engine builder recommends 7 oz for breakin, 6 oz thereafter. Seemed to smoke a lot with 7, 6 is good. Now in the shop for second topend, all looks good. Everytime I get comfortable with an aspect of the kart, this forum shows me logically that I am 100% wrong. So here goes. My son does not tune the carb yet, so we run a little rich. Lots of greasy exhaust, but only 1 out 10 karts is faster on the straight. I want him to start playing with it, but fear he will lean it out too much and stick it. If I up the ratio to 8oz would it protect against a too lean mix? (just in case). And might we gain a little performance in the bargain? I have learned to pull the head and decarbon regularly, as we only pass tech by a whisker, so alittle build up doesn't bother me. We have neither the expertise, nor the money, to run "on the edge". Looking for good consistant performance with minimum risk.
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Pete Muller
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Joined: 23 Jul 2001
Posts: 1950
Location: United States, California,

PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
If I up the ratio to 8oz would it protect against a too lean mix? (just in case).


No.

It's a fairly common misconception that running too little oil will cause a seizure... when in fact, too little oil (or poor quality oil) typically shows first in wear/damage to the big-end rod bearing.

Conversely, more oil will not prevent seizure.

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Matt Gaskins



Joined: 02 Jan 2003
Posts: 159
Location: United States, Indiana,

PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete,

I have several questions on some points you made..

1st: "Needless to say, the jet needs to be "opened up" on the carb as you add more and more oil (so that you're still getting about the same amount of *gasoline*, though more "fuel mixture"). "

Oil and gas are premixed, so opening up the jet will only increase the amount of oil/ fuel mixture, not just gasoline.... Correct?

2nd: "Conversely, more oil will not prevent seizure."

I know nothing can prevent seizures if a engine is run to hot or if it is over revved. But, the more oil, the less chance there should be.. ??
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tracy blumenstein



Joined: 03 Feb 2004
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

has anyone else tried power plus ,we run 8oz. and cam2 and we have had no problems and it still make good power
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Pete Muller
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Joined: 23 Jul 2001
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Location: United States, California,

PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt Gaskins wrote:
Pete,

I have several questions on some points you made..

Oil and gas are premixed, so opening up the jet will only increase the amount of oil/ fuel mixture, not just gasoline.... Correct?


That's correct.

But since you need approximately the same amount of gasoline to achieve a certain mixture (EGT, plug color, state of tune, whatever you want to call it), you have to allow more gas/oil mixture into the airstream so that you still get the correct/same amount of gasoline.


Quote:
I know nothing can prevent seizures if a engine is run to hot or if it isover revved. But, the more oil, the less chance there should be.. ??


Actually, over-revving has nothing at all to do with seizure.

And generally speaking, once you have "enough" oil for the piston, adding more doesn't really change anything as far as reducing the tendency to seize. More oil will, however, make the big-end rod bearing happy, and the main bearings too (to a lesser extent than the rod bearing though).

The engine will quite probably produce more power with more oil as well... though once again; it's still entirely possible to seize an engine even when running lots of oil.

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Chris Richter



Joined: 26 Dec 2002
Posts: 144
Location: United States, Oregon, Oregon City

PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2004 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete,

Have you done any testing to see how the oil mix ratio has an effect on the fuel meter?

Our roadrace committee plans to test for different ratios before the Grand Nationals (maybe even this weekend).

Chris Richter, PKA tech.
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c w owen



Joined: 30 Dec 2003
Posts: 35

PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2004 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tracy blumenstein wrote:
has anyone else tried power plus ,we run 8oz. and cam2 and we have had no problems and it still make good power


Tracty, I ran kt 100 for two years, both on sprint and long tracks. The only oil I ran was Power plus synthetic. I never stuck a motor. I ran approx. 6 oz per gallon. My motor man tore my motor apart mid season...put it back togehter and said "run it, it looks good, nothing wrong with it". I run Rotax now and I still use Power Plus synthtic. Good oil in my (and my motor man's) opinion.
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Pete Muller
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Joined: 23 Jul 2001
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Location: United States, California,

PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2004 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once again; oil has very little to do with causing or preventing seizures.

The real test of an oil is to pull the engine down and look at the rollers out of the big-end rod bearing under a microscope.

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George Miskovski



Joined: 12 Oct 2003
Posts: 31
Location: Australia, New South Wales, Sydney

PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2004 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete Muller wrote:
Once again; oil has very little to do with causing or preventing seizures.



Hi Pete

Like so many I beleived that seizures occured as a result of overheating and piston expansion. I'm new to all this and please forgive my ignorance (you seem to have this area of our sport down to a T) but I beleive oil has everything to do with seizures. I should say the lack of oil film has everything to do with seizures.

What happens before and during a seizure can be summarised as follows...

-Oil film between piston and cylinder wall burns off
-Generally it comes back and you would never know about it
-When it doesn't come back 'scoring' occurs. (nasty, nasty scoring Mad )
-If the film still doesn't return you get so much scoring that the piston and wall scrape each other enough to remove material
-This material will push the piston against the opposite side of the wall which will start to scrape as well
-Seizure still doesn't take place however until this material finds it's way to the piston ring
-This will lock the ring in its groove
-A locked ring is incapable of providing any compression
-Loss of compression will result in loss of power and mixed with the friction of piston against wall will give you a seizure quick smart

This happens really quickly, usually less than a second.
[/b]
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Keith Young



Joined: 13 Sep 2006
Posts: 70
Location: United States, North Carolina, New Bern

PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For years the Porsche air cooled crowd has debated the effacacy of traditional (dino) vs. synthetic. There have been numerous debates concerning themal viscosity, break down characteristics, adhesion and lubricity. The conclusion, mostly Laughing has been that synthetics are far and away superior to dino. But, since we are doing oil changes so often, it really doesn't matter becasue the modern oils are great too!

I can understand much of this same argument for kart engines and oils. The synthetics are proably better? But, the traditional oils, given that we burn them almost immediately, are certainly as suitable. So the pudding should be, when similar engines are layed side by side and disassemble, is there any measurable difference between the synthetic fed engine and the dino fed engine?
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Steve O'Hara



Joined: 02 Jan 2002
Posts: 1063
Location: United States, California,

PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keith,

Castor is not "dino" as you call petroleum based oils. The properties of castor oil are much different than synthetics or petro based oil. Castor is unique among oils as it will flow toward heat rather than away from heat and that is why it is so effective in two cycle motors. I have done no research on modern synthetics to compare them with castor so I can't say much about them but I have extensive experience with castor and would not run any other oil in a racing two stroke engine no matter what type of engine or fuel I'm using. Serious racers will never run an engine long enough for meaningful carbon build up to occur without having the top end apart to inspect the ring, clips, bearings, wrist pin etc. If that is an issue then you aren't racing hard enough to need castor Smile
Never use less than 8oz. per gallon and use 10oz if you can without fouling plugs.
Pete and I have been good friends for decades and we did much of the testing on this stuff jointly and I can back up everything he has said here. One area of clarification... I think Pete would agree with the statement that more oil will not guarantee against a stick but it can help avoid one if you are right on the edge.
Rule of thumb.... run a lot of oil no matter what type you choose to run and you'll have better results. One thing I can say for sure.... reducing the amount of oil has never made any kart engine I raced run faster... they just wore out quicker.
Steve O'Hara
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Larry Andrews



Joined: 13 May 2002
Posts: 2848
Location: United States, California, SC Mtns

PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 11:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree about using more oil - 8oz/gal of castor (Maxima 927) really did seem to keep the wear down although practically everyone seemed to think I was loony.

One problem that I never did really figure out was how to manage plug fouling with the engine hot and *off*. Seemed like more oil in the mix would cause puddling in the bottom end of the CR125 stock moto mill, which would then mist up from heat and foul the plug when the kart was parked.

I developed a habit of pulling the plug and shooting it with brake cleaner before going out - but that seems kinda silly as noone else seemed to be doing it. Once the plug was pulled, massive amounts of oil mist would just spew out the plug hole...took quite a while for it to stop.

Anybody got any ideas? Is this to be expected?
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Steve O'Hara



Joined: 02 Jan 2002
Posts: 1063
Location: United States, California,

PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2006 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Larry,

That's a new one... I've never seen anything like you described with any kind of oil in any amount. Any chance you have a minor water leak and the "mist" you see coming out the plug hole is water/coolant vapor?
Steve O'Hara
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