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Casey a Clark
Joined: 30 Oct 2012 Posts: 3
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 5:15 pm Post subject: Birel rx32 setup |
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I have an older birel rx32 and I'm having trouble with corner entry.
The kart is tight on entry and feels heavy on the steering.
Setup
Mg yellow
10 f
12r
Front bar in
4th rail in
Full castor
Toe 1/16 out
48 1/4 front width
Chassi down in front
Tie rod on inner hole on spindle
Rear chassis down
B axle
54 1/2 rear width
Honda 125 shifter
Any setup help would be nice |
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TJ Koyen
Joined: 03 Oct 2004 Posts: 1425
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 7:10 pm Post subject: |
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What do you mean "tight" on entry?
What about apex and exit? _________________ T.J. Koyen
OKTANE VISUAL - Custom Helmet Paint & Graphic Design
www.oktanevisual.com
www.facebook.com/oktanevisual
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DB Motorsports
Exprit/Leopard |
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Casey a Clark
Joined: 30 Oct 2012 Posts: 3
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 7:19 pm Post subject: |
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| Under steer |
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Jim Stine
Joined: 06 Feb 2012 Posts: 40 Location: United States, Indiana,
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Gleb Shirshov
Joined: 29 Oct 2012 Posts: 1 Location: Italy, Brescia,
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 11:44 am Post subject: |
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I think the chassis setup could be all the time different: depends on track, weather, driver, etc. I've been driving myself 3 years on Birel and for me the best set-up was soft B (Blue) axle. On any weather, nearly on any track...
You already have B. OK.
In my opinion the front bar is not suitable much with B axle (at least for me). In any case if you remove it it would be easier to drive.
Lift front of the chassis up to make it steer better at the entry of the corner.
Please write which model of the seat do you use and how is it placed? _________________ Karting Club of St. Petersburg
http://www.karting-club.ru |
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Don Holmboe
Joined: 26 Aug 2002 Posts: 323 Location: United States, Oregon, Tigard
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 1:21 pm Post subject: |
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You did not mention axle. We found that the stiffer the chassis the softer the axle needed to be. Take fourth rail out. Try a pad in seat to determine if you need higher center of gravity. _________________ Don Holmboe
Competition Motors Corp.
cmckart@yahoo.com
http://cmckarts.com
(503) 624 0621 |
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Evan Batt
Joined: 06 Dec 2007 Posts: 134 Location: United States, Indiana,
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Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 8:27 am Post subject: |
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First off, I would make sure the seat is mounted per the factory recommendations. Having raced that same chassis with a stock honda a couple years ago, here is what I would try:
1) Remove split between front and rear pressures. Raise the fronts to 12psi as well, and drop pressures across the board if you experience too much overall grip.
2) Remove 4th rail. Rarely did I ever use this...I imagine this will alleviate most of your problem.
3) Not sure what you mean by full castor...do you have pils on both top and bottom? If you have a bottom pil installed then replace it with a (stock) central pil. If you have just the top then leave as is. Also, no mention of camber in your post, so make sure you're in the 0-2mil negative (per side) range, when the kart is on the stand.
4) Reset front ride height to factory setting. If this is what you already have then try raising the frame.
5) Raise rear ride height.
The following are not necessarily related directly to your handling problem, but are things I would consider regarding your kart's setup:
-Typically, on the MG tire I would run 55" rear width.
-I would start with front width at 1 big and 2 small spacers per side.
-Rarely did I ever go softer than a D axle, and most of the time I preferred the F.
-If the steering is still too heavy then try reducing ackerman.
Hope this helps. |
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