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chilly premix
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Gerry MacNutt



Joined: 14 Apr 2012
Posts: 109
Location: Canada, not USA state,

PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 3:45 pm    Post subject: chilly premix Reply with quote

So I want to test in a few weeks and here on the wet coast it look like temps may around 35 to 40 deg. F so I'm worried about running 927 in the CR250 based on what the label is saying and this from the Dumonde Tech site:

*All brands of castors manufactured may drop out of fuels when temperatures reach below 50 Deg. F

So what is the best cold weather premix oil to run that won't separate at temps close to freezing?
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Ian Harrison



Joined: 23 Nov 2006
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Location: United Kingdom (Great Britain), Manchester

PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Gerry

A modern Fully Synthetic race oil will stay mixed, with no problem

Not sure what you guys get over there, but ELF 909 HTX is a good one and it does have a touch of castor.

Best Regards

Ian Very Happy
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Riley Will



Joined: 03 Sep 2001
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Location: Canada, not USA state,

PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Motul 800
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Tim Doll



Joined: 18 Jul 2001
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gerry

I used to run Tech castor exclusively (I switched to Burris Castor a few years back due to the lower deposits), running with ERC I never had an issue with it separating (and it snowed at one of our races Shocked ).

However, when I went back to Road America and ran their track fuel (don't recall what it was), it separated on a June overnight.

You can pretty well check by looking if it separated, but if you're really worried a good synthetic would be an alternative.

Tim
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Mark Jauregui



Joined: 20 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We used to have issues with the mix separating at Reno Fernley when it got cold and just added 1 oz. of acetone per gallon of fuel.
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Chris Reinhardt



Joined: 29 Aug 2002
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Location: United States, New York, Ossining

PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 3:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark Jauregui wrote:
We used to have issues with the mix separating at Reno Fernley when it got cold and just added 1 oz. of acetone per gallon of fuel.


That's exactly what I remember they did back in the day with bean oil... I wonder how that effects the jetting?

Personally I agree that bean oil really is out dated and the synthetics are the way to go.....

CR
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al nunley



Joined: 13 Nov 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris Reinhardt wrote:

Personally I agree that bean oil really is out dated and the synthetics are the way to go.....

CR

I was always a big fan of Super Klotz, synthetic with 20% castor, but when running the KT, right at the EGT high limits, (more HP) the synthetic will “cook”, and stick the ring. Maybe hard to believe, but I tell no lies.
Now most people don’t have this problem, (they run lower EGT’s) but we did and I know of another winning driver that had the same problem and had to switch to straight castor.
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Chris Reinhardt



Joined: 29 Aug 2002
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

al nunley wrote:

Now most people don’t have this problem, (they run lower EGT’s) but we did and I know of another winning driver that had the same problem and had to switch to straight castor.


I could light my shop with candles too Very Happy

No doubt bean oil takes more heat to burn off, I use bean oil spray on my mig gun, cuts down on nozzle splatter and tip consumption.

I think what most people found out is that if they were pushing the limit of a synthetic premix oil to the point where it was burning off, they were too lean and losing power anyway....


What a straight castor will give you is an extra, extra margin of error on your jetting. If you have a good baseline, you probably don't need it, and don't have to deal with the cold weather issues or the extra oily buildup either.

CR

CR
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al nunley



Joined: 13 Nov 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Chris Reinhardt"]
I think what most people found out is that if they were pushing the limit of a synthetic premix oil to the point where it was burning off, they were too lean and losing power anyway....
[I don’t know about “most people” but we always ran the EGT and if we got the least bit lean, we could tell very quickly. Don’t assume it was just because we didn’t know what we were doing. I can assure you, we, and the other driver I spoke of, knew what we were doing. It’s kind of insulting to suggest anything else.
When you’re running at the limits, bean oil is the only thing to run./quote]
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Chris Reinhardt



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take her easy there bucko, I wasn't suggesting any such thing....

If you enjoy castor and that's your bag, good for you.....

CR
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Ian Harrison



Joined: 23 Nov 2006
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Location: United Kingdom (Great Britain), Manchester

PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 1:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Al

I don't know how long ago it was that you were running synthetics, but they have come on in leaps and bounds over the last 3 years. The latest oils using Esther Tech Technology have exceptional film strength. Having said that we always run right at the limit (you have to with unleaded) and I can't think the last time I had a simple ring stick due to gumming on either a single or twin.

My personal bias is to use a castor (Castrol A747 was always my favourite) with leaded fuels and a high quality Esther Tech synthetic like Putoline RS959 or ELF HTX909 with unleaded.

But these days and with the discontinuation of 747, I will be using the above synthetics in all instances.

I was brought up breathing Castrol R40 fumes out of the 4-strokes and R30 out of the 2-strokes. Nothing to beat that aroma!!

Best Regards

Ian Very Happy
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al nunley



Joined: 13 Nov 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 4:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice to hear from our friends from across the pond.
I wonder if film strenth has any effect on the oil cooking, creating a slugge, that sticks the ring in the ring grove? Not like sticking the piston. There is no aluminum wipe over the ring. And it seems to happen after a heat, in the pits as the engine cools. Then, next heat, no power. Come in, check the compression, and it’s very low. Pull the barrel and you see all the muck with the ring stuck in the piston ring grove. The barrel is just fine. New piston and ring, castor oil, next heat, all better. Same EGT peak.
Do you use an EGT?
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All else being equal; Compression is the Holy Grail.
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Ian Harrison



Joined: 23 Nov 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Al

Never seen anything like you describe when running a synthetic even years ago. Perhaps it's the brand you are using??!!

All clean as a whistle all the time and never a sign of any gum whatsoever????

Yes we run EGT sensors on our AIM loggers. On the Honda CR250 singles we site the probe at 150mm from the piston face measured along the top of the port.

See attached data from Donington Park. As you can see the max EGT is related to the peak speed of 124.6mph and 11,390 rpm (as always slight damping delay)



Google tells me that 726 degrees Celsius is 1338.8 degrees F. As I say we always run on the edge (where esle is there?) Laughing Cool

Just pulled the cylinder off a motor that has done a weekends racing using Putoline RS959 Synthetic. Cylinder was never lifted all weekend. Clean as a whistle. Wink



Best Regards

Ian Very Happy
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ted dale



Joined: 25 Oct 2004
Posts: 611

PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ian looks like a worn rubber. And the other end needs sharpening. Laughing
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Ian Harrison



Joined: 23 Nov 2006
Posts: 1670
Location: United Kingdom (Great Britain), Manchester

PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wondered what that unusual smell was, Ted.

Thanks for the heads-up!! Laughing Laughing Laughing Wink

Best Regards

Ian Very Happy
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