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Paint or Powder Coat
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Matt Overbeck



Joined: 15 Jul 2012
Posts: 21

PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 7:23 am    Post subject: Paint or Powder Coat Reply with quote

As the the karting season winds down around here I am starting to look towards improvements for next season. I want to rebuild my sons kid kart, the paint on it looks ok, but it is getting worn and peeling around the engine mount and rear bearing carriers from repeated cleanings with brake cleaner. Whatever kind of paint that is on it gets soft with brake clean and some color will wipe off onto my rag. so my question is what holds up better to cleaners and solvents? Powder coat? Or maybe an industrial paint like DuPont Imron?
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Chris Reinhardt



Joined: 29 Aug 2002
Posts: 2922
Location: United States, New York, Ossining

PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt, the key thing here to understand, powdercoat is paint. If you had a polyurethane paint that came out wet from a spray gun, you can also get the same polyurethane in powder form, it's just applied differently.

I don't know of any paint that will hold up to brake clean, maybe ceramics$$$$

Powder coat is probably a better bang for you buck, you just need to use a chemical to clean it that won't attack the paint. WD40 works well, any type a kerosene based solvent, Gunk...etc

CR
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Walt Gifford



Joined: 19 Jul 2002
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just wipe the kart down with a rag. The only area that needs solvent is the rear sprocket from the sticky chain oil.


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Brian Degulis



Joined: 13 Aug 2012
Posts: 414
Location: United States, Florida,

PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Powder coating is generaly more chemical resistant than paints. If you want an absouloutly chemical resistant coating go Awlgrip. It's primarly a marine paint (I own a company that builds tug boats). I sandblast then coat with Awlgrip 545 primer then an awlgrip topcoat. It is a no maintenace coating that is UV and chemical resistant like no other paint I'm aware of. No chemical you will be using will hurt it. I'm doing a kart now I'll snap some pics and post them hear.


Brian
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Tim Koyen
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get it powder coated, which is how it came from the factory. Then use WD-40 to keep it clean. Do not use brake cleaner. Brake cleaner eats any paint. If you need a liquid to wash out the oily residue from the chain, etc., use starting fluid, aka ether. It works very well and will not damage the powder coat.
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Brian Degulis



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blasted etch primer black Awlgrip



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jeff grose



Joined: 11 Dec 2008
Posts: 1249
Location: United States, Florida, cocoa

PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice looking paint job.




Now i'm gonna resist the urge to ask about the 2 window shakers in 1 window Shocked
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Cesar Rull



Joined: 08 Sep 2012
Posts: 317
Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines

PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

don't you guys have to sandblast the paint off the frame before painting it?

I too would like to paint my frame in the future. In the mean time to prevent rust I am thinking of just spraying the bottom with some black paint. (the fame is black)

How long did it take to take the chassis apart? I am very tempted... it seems like its about just removing the rear axle and the front wheels.
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Mike Goebel



Joined: 28 Jul 2001
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Location: United States, California, Winnetka

PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cesar Rull wrote:
it seems like its about just removing the rear axle and the front wheels.


YES that's all it is Shocked Shocked Shocked Laughing Laughing Laughing


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Cesar Rull



Joined: 08 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I mean you have to remove other things, but the axle and front hubs seem to the be most intricate.
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Cesar Rull



Joined: 08 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I mean you have to remove other things, but the axle and front hubs seem to the be most intricate.
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Jerry VanDeusen



Joined: 26 Sep 2001
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice paint job


butt.... the 2 ac units in one window ???
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Brian Degulis



Joined: 13 Aug 2012
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 4:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It took me around 4 hours to remove everything from the frame. I think sandblasting is a must.



Brian
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Tim Koyen
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It usually takes me 3-4 hours to totally disassemble a kart, then at least that long to reassemble it. The pedals, braking system, fairing...it all adds up. Mine are Tag karts, so you've got the electronics, battery box, etc. It would take less time for a 100cc kart.

My guy uses chemical stripper instead of sandblasting, although either method seems to work fine.

Once you get it done, I highly recommend some sort of plastic frame protectors for at least the waist area and perhaps the front tube. My driver has a habit of driving straight over the top of any curbing if its the fastest way around, regardless of what it does to the underside of the frame. Sacrificing the plastic guards over chassis metal is a must for my karts. J3 offers some nice guards as well as VerdeSpeed. Both do the job.

http://www.verdespeedresources.com/e-store/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=111
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Mike Goebel



Joined: 28 Jul 2001
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tim Koyen wrote:

My guy uses chemical stripper instead of sandblasting, although either method seems to work fine.



I like that better. I had my chassis sand blaster and it was super rough. So the powdercoater laid on the finish super thick so it would be smooth but it now cracks off and smoches too easily.


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