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Re-threading Crank Shaft threads for clutch - HELP

 
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Todd Renaud



Joined: 21 Oct 2001
Posts: 205
Location: United States, Texas, San Antonio, TX

PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 7:52 pm    Post subject: Re-threading Crank Shaft threads for clutch - HELP Reply with quote

Had to re-tighten my flywheel. When I was ready to put everything back together, the thrust washer that along with the hex nut holds the clutch drum on wouldn't fit over the threads at all. That didn't make sense. So went to at least try the 10mmx1.00 hex nut I took off and it wouldn't go on and looking at it - all the threads were stripped.

Looking at the shaft, appears that the first 1-2 threads on the outside of the shaft are larger than they should be. Only thing I can think is that the hex nut crapped them up (that's a Texas term) on the way off or maybe they got flared somehow when I was pulling the clutch off?

Regardless, I am trying to clean the threads up with a 10mmx1.00 Die and for the life of my can NOT get the thing to catch and start threading. I can't explain it and feel confident I know how to use the Die Wink. Its almost like the flat edge before the threads are preventing it from ever getting started or if the 1st/2nd threads are larger somehow - they are preventing the die from working. I can also get about 1/4 turn on a Hex Nut before it gets super tight. Hate to try and use it to clean the threads up because don't think that will work.

Is the 10mmx1.00 Die the one I need?

I know this pic below doesn't show everything but included it for reference. ANY IDEAS from anyone on what is wrong or what I might be doing wrong? I am about to go crazy....

Thanks in advance.


Untitled by Speedracer92, on Flickr
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John Savage



Joined: 30 Jan 2002
Posts: 1252
Location: United Kingdom (Great Britain), not USA state,

PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take it to a machine shop and get an expert to do it or you will be buying a new crank Embarassed

Next time use a torque wrench to do up the nut Wink
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Todd Renaud



Joined: 21 Oct 2001
Posts: 205
Location: United States, Texas, San Antonio, TX

PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 5:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John Savage wrote:
Take it to a machine shop and get an expert to do it or you will be buying a new crank Embarassed

Next time use a torque wrench to do up the nut Wink


Do you mean using a torque wrench to tighten it? I'm still trying to figure out why it stripped in the first place...
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Joe Ricard



Joined: 23 Jun 2009
Posts: 868
Location: United States, Mississippi,

PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think he is implying that you buggered up the thread when tightening it before you ever took it apart.

Those threads look galled but you should be able to get a die to start it it's the right one.

I have reconditioned worse, but never on a uber expensive Rotax crankshaft.
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Chuck Parker



Joined: 04 Mar 2007
Posts: 506
Location: United States, New Jersey,

PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try a thread file.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-tools/thread-file/
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Rich Hays



Joined: 09 Sep 2005
Posts: 239
Location: United States, California, Huntington Beach

PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chuck Parker wrote:
Try a thread file.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-tools/thread-file/


+1

I have seen this happen before when using a clutch puller and not protecting the snout of the crank. The end of the crank will get flared out and the last few threads will have to be filled down with a thread file in order to get the clutch drum nut to go back on. One simple way to help minimize this is to spin the clutch drum nut back onto the crank snout, covering the threads at the end of the crank, before using the puller.

-rh
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Chillon Kraus



Joined: 16 Nov 2001
Posts: 283
Location: United States, Wisconsin, Wales

PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The end is mushroomed, look at the all the cracks on the tip. Time to buy a new crank.
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Todd Renaud



Joined: 21 Oct 2001
Posts: 205
Location: United States, Texas, San Antonio, TX

PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, took it to my engine builder and using an old Die, was able to get it started, then used my new die to finish it off and it works fine now. Was using a universal puller on it and that has the tip on the end which doesn't work well as one with a flat end on it of course. Thanks for all the advice though...
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