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Switching to TAG. Some quick questions.

 
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Kyle Prokup



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 302
Location: United States, Illinois, Granville

PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 10:39 am    Post subject: Switching to TAG. Some quick questions. Reply with quote

We purchased a TAG motor earlier in the year with the intention of racing it next season, but seeing as I'm currently not in any significant points standing in my series I may try to run it the last race of the year. Had some quick questions to make sure I dont mess it up (Raced kt100 and KPV for 4 years, never water-cooled).

-What water temperature would you want a MY09 Leopard to be at to start hitting higher RPM's. Ideal operating temperature?
-Optimum/Safe-ish RPM?
-Needle settings?
-EGT? (Dont answer if you dont believe in its' significance)
-Anything different from 100cc worth mentioning rather than driving style?

Thanks,
Kyle.
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Tim Koyen
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 11:56 am    Post subject: Re: Switching to TAG. Some quick questions. Reply with quote

Kyle Prokup wrote:
We purchased a TAG motor earlier in the year with the intention of racing it next season, but seeing as I'm currently not in any significant points standing in my series I may try to run it the last race of the year. Had some quick questions to make sure I dont mess it up (Raced kt100 and KPV for 4 years, never water-cooled).

-What water temperature would you want a MY09 Leopard to be at to start hitting higher RPM's. Ideal operating temperature?
-Optimum/Safe-ish RPM?
-Needle settings?
-EGT? (Dont answer if you dont believe in its' significance)
-Anything different from 100cc worth mentioning rather than driving style?

Thanks,
Kyle.


Hey Kyle,

This is based on my own experience with TJ running the Leopard for the past few years.

Water temp is very important, but only so you don't get a cold stick. If measuring it in the head, 100 deg is good enough to hit the track with, less if you use a thermostat (which I recommend). It should run between 140 and 160 on the track when the ambient temp is warm. If you can't get it above 120, put some tape on the radiator. Take 10 deg off all these temps if you're measuring it with an inline sensor in the hose. Water temp is mostly controlled by the radiator and not the fuel mix like a 100cc.

The 09 Leopard has a rev limiter at 17k and don't be afraid to bounce it off the limiter on tight tracks. Otherwise, same as a Yamaha, less rpm and big tracks with long straights.

Needle settings are builder dependent, but 2 on the low and 1 on the high is usually a safe place to be. Learning to read the color of the flex and inside the header will help you fine tune it to the sweet spot.

I like to see the EGT around 1040-1060, but this can vary based on the probe location. Mine are fairly close the the engine.

You'll definitely be doing more driving with the throttle than you're used to, plus braking harder and driving deeper.

Keep the clutch drum clean and disassemble it every day and get the gunk out of it. They are not self cleaning like a disk clutch, they collect grime. Rough up the shoes with some scotch brite as well. Have spare clutch drivers as you'll eat those up fairly quickly. Use a good O-ring chain (I like the RK blue ones) and have them in a different sizes. (Don't use standard DID chains like the yami) O ring chains will last you long time, but you can't break them to change sizes.

Tag is great fun, but it is much more expensive to seriously compete with than Yamaha. Have lots of spares. Have lots of spares. An extra wiring harness, battery, clutch cover, ignition coil, and pretty much everything else related to the engine is mandatory. Did I mention you'll need spare parts?...you get the picture.

Have Fun!
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Jim Derrig



Joined: 22 Apr 2008
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Location: United States, Washington,

PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

+1 for what Tim said, except in my experience there is very little power above 16k rpm, and if you're hitting 17k all the time there's a good chance you're running around the track on the wrong side of the power band. You'll also find the engine life is considerably shorter.

Of course it depends on the track and the driver, but for a first race I'd gear for a top rpm of 15-15.3k rpm. It'll still seem way fast compared to a KT 100.

And +++1 on the o-ring chain. The DID stuff lasts about 5 laps.
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