TaG (unsealed) Rotax Rebuild.

Justin Martin · Joined: 27 Mar 2012 Posts: 328

So I have come to the realization that I do not want to run in Gatorz next year. I enjoy Tag more, and it allows me to save lotsof dough with rebuilds/sealing etc.

I have rebuilt many KT100's, and 125, 250, and a few 4 stroke moto engines....

That being said, every motor is different and it seems like an rotax rebuild specs are kept under lock and key for the certified passport dealers....

Can anyone give my an acceptable amount of play untie rod/crank, rod/piston, and crank in general? I had asked about some slop 3-ish millimeters on the starter gear, which I was told was normal..dont's am experienced at rebuilding, I just want to know the general do's and dontc with Rotax.

PS, its an FR125O

Russell Stevens · Joined: 15 Oct 2012 Posts: 100

Ahem!

http://www.kartingsa.com.au/kart%20manuals/Rotax%20Max%20Manual.pdf

Might be what you are looking for...

Rusty

Joe Ricard · Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 10:38 am Post subject:

I just rebuilt a rotax that I got that had a bad water pump seal. Being the curious nut I decided to cut the tamper seals and rebuild it for my practice engine.

Yep looked the same inside as my ICC so no biggy on difficulty. (no gold plated unobtanium parts).

Did nothing special other that making sure burs were smoothed and allowable areas were spec. Squish etc.

Turns out the motor is faster than the sealed one. Not having seen the inside of the sealed one. I can't tell you the differences. Cylinder numbers are different so I assume that's it.

Rotax cylinders are certainly NOT "jewelry" like my ICC is/was.
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Arrow AX-8/ Rotax Sr.