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Bill Faulk
Joined: 26 Jul 2012 Posts: 18 Location: United States, California,
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Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 5:54 pm Post subject: |
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I don't have much history on the engine other than it was never run and it was blue printed from emmick. Does anyone have a good audio clip they can post of detonation so I know what it sounds like?
Walt right now I have an 86 tooth sprocket on the rear axel my concern of going larger is actually in clearance from the ground. It has less than 1/2 inch from chain to ground. Is there a fix to increase Clearance? I have already scraped the chain once. _________________ -Bill |
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TJ Koyen
Joined: 03 Oct 2004 Posts: 1413 Location: United States, Wisconsin, Sun Prairie
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Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 7:40 pm Post subject: |
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| Walt Gifford wrote: | I never knew how much heat a rookie driver can put into a clutch until I mentored a new guy last week. It got so hot the starter nut came off and the guts came off the taper. Thank goodness for the 3rd bearing arm. I fixed it and he drove faster and it was ok from there.
1st, set the clutch to the lowest stall setting possible as per the manual. The guy that rebuilt the clutch should have done this for you. 2nd, add lots of teeth to the rear gear to help you get above the stall speed of the clutch in the turns. Max 219 gear is about a 91 tooth. 3rd, when you leave the pits give it full throttle until you're up to speed then keep it up to speed and rolling through the turns as fast as you can.
If you find the engine revving too high at top end (15,000) you can open the main jet and it will go rich to govern the rpm.
Hope that helps,
Gif  |
Although Walt's advice here will help, it seems like an awful lot of work when you could simply just learn how to drive in a way that doesn't burn the clutch up. You'll have to drive that way eventually anyway. Better to not make it more complicated.
As long as you keep your speed up and don't ride the brakes and apply throttle at the same time, you shouldn't burn the clutch up.
As far as carb settings, when we ran Yamaha Supercan (different exhaust to you) we almost always ran around 2 1/4 on the low speed needle and 1/8 to 1/4 on the high with zero issues. Don't worry about detonation and governing the engine by running it extra rich. I don't know if those exact settings will work for that exhaust setup but I'd imagine they'd be close. _________________ T.J. Koyen
OKTANE VISUAL - Custom Helmet Paint & Graphic Design
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DB Motorsports
Exprit/Leopard |
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al nunley
Joined: 13 Nov 2006 Posts: 3027
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Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 6:55 am Post subject: |
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| Bill Faulk wrote: | I don't have much history on the engine other than it was never run and it was blue printed from emmick. Does anyone have a good audio clip they can post of detonation so I know what it sounds like?
Walt right now I have an 86 tooth sprocket on the rear axel my concern of going larger is actually in clearance from the ground. It has less than 1/2 inch from chain to ground. Is there a fix to increase Clearance? I have already What gear is on the engine? If you have a 10 tooth on the engine that’s, (8.60-1) a pretty low ratio. If you have an 11 tooth on the engine, you would have to run a 95 tooth on the axle to get close to the same ratio. (11/95 = 8.64)
You need to find out what a common ratio is, for your engine and exhaust, for the tracks you’re running. At your point, on the learning curve, getting the exact right ratio is not all that important, you just need to be close.
The right foot on the gas and the left foot on the brake is never good.
Going too deep into the corner, getting sideway’s, hitting the gas to pull yourself out is hard on the clutch. The sideways you get, the harder it is on the clutch.
It’s one of the first big mistakes new drivers make. The hear about going in “Deep“, and they think that is the way to go. What they don’t hear is that you need to break straight, let off the gas, start your turn and when the time is right, hit the gas and smoothly exit the turn. “Smoothly” being the “Key”.
Going in “TOO” deep is always bad for good lap times.
Slow down, get smooth, you’ll get faster as you learn to control the kart.
Did you know that 2 ½ turns out on the low speed needle is “Wide” open. That setting leaves you nowhere to go if the engine starts to lean out on the low speed.
The settings on the carb will change as the air density changes. They will change as the engine gets hotter. You have an EGT, watch it, it will tell you what the mixture is doing. Watch it coming off the tightest turn, watch it at the end of the straight.
Let us know how things are going.
A properly sized picture of the plug would be nice. A check of the compression pressure would be nice. A check of the combustion chamber CC’s would be nice. Give us an idea what the stall RPM is on the clutch.
Is the carb blueprinted? Do you know that it is, for a fact?
It would be easy to get you up and going if I was at the track with you, but this way is tough.scraped the chain once. |
_________________ If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
All else being equal; Compression is the Holy Grail.
45 years, in and around karting |
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Walt Gifford
Joined: 19 Jul 2002 Posts: 4289 Location: United States, South Jerrrsey,
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Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 7:15 am Post subject: |
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Making a clutch adjustment or a gear change is a normal part of a race day. If you're paying $150 on clutch parts per race day I'd change something. Do you know which engine gear you have, how big is your track? 1/4 mile track 10th, 1/2 mile track 11th depending on turn density. With 13 psi in your tires you should have no problem with an 89th gear. If you're hitting the chain you might be running over curbs or putting a wheel off the edge.
Gif  |
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Bill Faulk
Joined: 26 Jul 2012 Posts: 18 Location: United States, California,
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Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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I have some images to hopefully answer some questions and a status update. I have been a little sick so i did not make it out to the track on Tuesday.
I did however get the kart up and running on a stand. H was set to 1/4 and L was set at 2.5. Engine had a very clean sound to it, I could tell it was right on the verge of wanting to idle but was not.
I was going to try and set up the clutch (which i have not done and have NO experience in) but i forgot to charge the battery on the starter and it died. (very rookie mistake). I am going to keep the same gearing as many people have suggested to me and set my clutch for 8000 RPM. I have not counted the teeth on the clutch sprocket but i will soon.
I was only putting 11PSI in the tires so i will be increasing the tire pressure next time out on the track to 13psi. The tires are currently over 2 years old and have never been wrapped so i know they eventually need to be replaced but for now they are working.
I would also just like to say Thank You! to all that have offered their support and advice. I TRULY appreciate your time and patience.
First Image is of the exhaust pipe i did some research and it is an RLV 3 spec pipe. pipe Number RLV 7403. It has 3 holes in it which at the moment are partially covered. I can not find what (if any) Class this pipe works for in the 2012 WKA rule book. I can post a link of where it is being sold if more information is needed on the pipe. also if you zoom in you can see RLV 3 in raised print on the pipe. I have to make a new Bracket to hold the exhaust. The original mount clearly was not made for this exhaust.
The Second Image is the clutch and a side view of the header w with exhaust and EGT sensor. The tape that says "Clutch Needs Oil" is from when i took it to Swedetech and had them work on the clutch. They were unable to set the RPM so i must give it a go myself. Its something i need to learn how to do anyways. The clutch does have fluid in it.
Third image is the Carb and air intake box. you can see the clutch oil already coming out after i filled it.
The last is my new fuel tank and filter
 _________________ -Bill |
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John Mulvihill
Joined: 14 Oct 2001 Posts: 1142 Location: United States, New York,
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Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 7:47 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Bill,
It sounds like you are getting there.
A couple things.
The carb setting you mentioned will not idle on the stand for very long. It is a rich setting that will give better acceleration coming out of a corner, but it won't idle (no accelerator pump on a kart carb- unlike a Holley). 3/4 0n the low will idle OK on a stand. Start the kart at one and open it up as you pull away on to the track.
If the EGT is mounted in the middle of the flex as it appears, it is too far away from the exhaust port in the motor. The best place is to mount it about half way in the header. A Digatron usually uses a 1/8th NPT thread on the sensor. My local hardware store has various 1/8th NPT fittings. I have bought a steel double female 1/8th NPT fitting, cut it in half, and brazed it on to the header to mount the sensor.
John _________________ I bowl overhand.......... |
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Steve O'Hara
Joined: 02 Jan 2002 Posts: 1062 Location: United States, California,
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Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 12:27 am Post subject: |
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Bill,
Where are you in California?
If you are anywhere near Orange County I would be happy to spend a little time with you to get you up to speed on the setup of the kart.
Steve O'Hara |
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Bill Faulk
Joined: 26 Jul 2012 Posts: 18 Location: United States, California,
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Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 10:12 am Post subject: |
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| Steve O'Hara wrote: | Bill,
Where are you in California?
If you are anywhere near Orange County I would be happy to spend a little time with you to get you up to speed on the setup of the kart.
Steve O'Hara |
I'm in the greater Sacramento Area. It would be a very long trip. Thank you for your offer.
| Quote: | Hi Bill,
It sounds like you are getting there.
A couple things.
The carb setting you mentioned will not idle on the stand for very long. It is a rich setting that will give better acceleration coming out of a corner, but it won't idle (no accelerator pump on a kart carb- unlike a Holley). 3/4 0n the low will idle OK on a stand. Start the kart at one and open it up as you pull away on to the track.
If the EGT is mounted in the middle of the flex as it appears, it is too far away from the exhaust port in the motor. The best place is to mount it about half way in the header. A Digatron usually uses a 1/8th NPT thread on the sensor. My local hardware store has various 1/8th NPT fittings. I have bought a steel double female 1/8th NPT fitting, cut it in half, and brazed it on to the header to mount the sensor.
John |
Just wondering what is a Holley? _________________ -Bill |
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al nunley
Joined: 13 Nov 2006 Posts: 3027
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Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 12:45 pm Post subject: |
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[quote="Bill Faulk"]
I'm in the greater Sacramento Area. It would be a very long trip. Thank you for your offer.
[quote]
Cazll Terry Ives, he's been in this a long time and knows as much as anybody. He's in Folsom.
1-916-201-7707 _________________ If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
All else being equal; Compression is the Holy Grail.
45 years, in and around karting |
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Mike Arnold
Joined: 08 Nov 2005 Posts: 1089 Location: United States, Kentucky,
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Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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A Holley is car carb and Holley is the maker.
Mike |
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Walt Gifford
Joined: 19 Jul 2002 Posts: 4289 Location: United States, South Jerrrsey,
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Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2012 8:02 am Post subject: |
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I would get a Walbro fuel filter. Those paper automotive filters give off fuzz that clogs the carb screen. The fuel line going to the carb should be safety wired to prevent an air leak which is a problem on these karts. That orange tubing gets rock hard pretty quick, I use Tygon tubing. Also, I'd put the other 3 bolts in the sprocket, if you put a wheel off the track it will be less likely to bend. The exhaust springs should wrap around from top hook to bottom not go straight across, you'll probably need longer springs for this. Don't know who milled those too big slots in the clutch support but I hope that don't break. There's a bolt missing in your chain guard.
Gif  _________________ FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician
Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001
Yamaha KT100 Service Center
40 years karting experience |
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Bill Faulk
Joined: 26 Jul 2012 Posts: 18 Location: United States, California,
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Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2012 11:08 am Post subject: |
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| Walt Gifford wrote: | I would get a Walbro fuel filter. Those paper automotive filters give off fuzz that clogs the carb screen. The fuel line going to the carb should be safety wired to prevent an air leak which is a problem on these karts. That orange tubing gets rock hard pretty quick, I use Tygon tubing. Also, I'd put the other 3 bolts in the sprocket, if you put a wheel off the track it will be less likely to bend. The exhaust springs should wrap around from top hook to bottom not go straight across, you'll probably need longer springs for this. Don't know who milled those too big slots in the clutch support but I hope that don't break. There's a bolt missing in your chain guard.
Gif  |
Thanks Walt I'll be going down to the shop today to get the new filter and some hardware for the rear sprocket and to look for the new fuel line. While i haven't done it yet, putting a wheel off the track sounds like a real possibility for me right now. I use safety wire when i take the kart out to the track. I have to store my kart vertical so i pop the hose off and blow the fuel back up the line so it doesn't siphon when storing it. i don't know how long that bolt was missing out of the chain guard but i had noticed it after taking the pictures. its been replaced. Which springs are incorrect the set on the header or the one on the exhaust support? _________________ -Bill |
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John Mulvihill
Joined: 14 Oct 2001 Posts: 1142 Location: United States, New York,
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Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2012 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Bill,
Walt was talking about the springs at the header. "Spiralling" them works better.
One way of doing that is turning the pipe so it is pointing straight up, hooking up the springs and then turning the pipe level. Hook up the springs on the cradle last.
Ditto on the filter.
When you put the missing bolt on the TCI/chain guard, you might also want to wrap a tie wrap around the TCI. The TCI tends to break at the mounting ears due to vibration.
John _________________ I bowl overhand.......... |
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Sean Kisselbach
Joined: 04 Feb 2012 Posts: 18
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Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 12:24 pm Post subject: |
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Here is a pic of my kart with the springs twisted. I think i works much better then just having them connected. |
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Bill Faulk
Joined: 26 Jul 2012 Posts: 18 Location: United States, California,
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Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 2:20 pm Post subject: |
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| Sean Kisselbach wrote: |
Here is a pic of my kart with the springs twisted. I think i works much better then just having them connected. |
Thanks for the great picture.
Just an update i think i may have stuck the engine or something else has gone terribly wrong. I'll be posting lots of pics and more information in a few hours.
I will also link the new thread i think its gonna be a long one. _________________ -Bill |
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