rok tt stalls at 13,000

Tom Sekey · Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 5:49 pm Post subject: rok tt stalls at 13,000

Im having an issue and looking for help. I have a ROK tt im trying to dyno and no matter what I do it stalls at about 13,000 and than bucks violently. Tried all new ignition parts, 3 carbs, spark plugs, re-sealed casses and main seals and nothing stopped it. Funny thing about it, I ran it 2 weeks ago and it was fine. it sat on a shelf since than.
Anyone come across this before?

Nathan Adair · Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 6:13 pm Post subject:

This might sound dumb, but is the battery fully charged?

Ron Towles · Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 4:32 am Post subject: ROK TT Wiring and battery

Don't need a battery or wiring harness. Click here.
http://www.ekartingnews.com/viewtopic.php?t=114640&highlight=
Best bet if you want to make sure it's not a wiring issue is to remove the wiring and battery completely and run it like a HPV/KPP. Ran that way this past weekend and the ROK was flying!

Tom Sekey · Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:59 am Post subject:

Im looking into different spark plugs. I was told the spark plug matters more with the rok than a leopard.

Jim McMahon · Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 1:39 pm Post subject:

Pipe and baffles clear?
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Ron Towles · Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 1:44 pm Post subject: Plug issues

I have to agree with your statement about the plug. We had problems with our motor at the Orlando FKCS race. Changed a bunch of things at the track but finally gave up and changed motors. Put the old motor back on a few weeks later with different rotor, stator, coil, carb, and reeds. Still ran like crap. All parts came from a known good motor. Took the plug out to read it (brand new plug) and it still looked new but wet. Changed to an old plug that came out of one of our leopards and it ran perfect. The plug we took out was an iridium high dollar plug. The one we put in was the cheapest plug you could buy.

Tom Sekey · Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:46 am Post subject:

You wont believe what it was. The motor mount. I sh!@ you not. I took off the flat aluminum mount and put on the angled mag mount and the stumble went away. The vibration actually caused the diaphram in the carb to stop pumping. Tried theory on 4 motors and got the same result. The dyno is more rigid than a chassis so this may not happen on the track. Thaks for all the responces