Rotax Miseries Fixed

[Rich Vito]

Hopefully the saga is completed.

I picked it up on Thursday. The plastic gears inside were erroaded not cracked. they were rounded. Chuck said it looked like a small plastic piece broke off and went around all the gears. Replaced them ALL for a about $150 parts and labor. If it happens again I will be changing it out.

KDS (John) indicated that Bombadier is saying a possible cause is tromping on the gas too much or letting off the gas going into a turn them stomping it. Lately I have been keeping the gas on and using my brakes to get me through the turns.

In a rotax you must roll into the gas.

I'll check it out on sat at the track and the race on sunday. I am nervous now that this will happen again.

Got some tips from Century Performance (Chuck) and will make those changes and see what times I get on my new mychron3.

I must say that KDS (John) and Century Performance (Chuck) have been helpful and even said that I held my temper well.

Thanks for all your help guys.

Rich Vito
Rotax FR125 #51
IMI, Colorado

[Rick Beilfuss]

Rich

Care to pass along what those tips may be?

Rick

[Chad Stapleton]

quote:

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Originally posted by Rich Vito:
KDS (John) indicated that Bombadier is saying a possible cause is tromping on the gas too much or letting off the gas going into a turn them stomping it

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I hope they were not being serious !!
This is a competition motor isn't it ??

[Rich Vito]

Well it ran well on sat and sun. Took 3rd with the track club but was about 6th with the SKUSA guys. I need to look at my gearing a bit. the changes that Chuck at Century Performance suggested helped-got down to 56.32. got to pick up another 1.5 secs. the big boys run in the 54s

As to tips:
You have to stay on the gas and keep those RPMs up >9,000 at ALL times and use the brakes to get you through those corners and be SMOOTH. I used up 3/4 quarters of my brakes this weekend. i think that is a measure of how well you are doing.

As to a post about rolling rotax starts. the suggestion of applying the brake while reving up over 7,500 rpm and then at the green release the brake and roll into the gas even more was an excellent suggestion. It works great!

The mychron3 basic was a great addition. You can see the RPMs and lap times when you are racing.

Thanks
Rich Vito
Rotax Max #51

[phil feigel]

rich did you say you got 7500 with the brake on??? hows that

[Rich Vito]

Phil-well lets say >6,000 rpm. it does seem to give you a jump on the start. It is hard to control the brake, gas, watch the rpm readout and watch the rear bumper of the guy in front of you all at once. It works.

Thanks
rich vito
rotax #51--colorado

[Chuck Groat]

Rich - could you send me a racing schedule of what is going on in Colorado. Have a few guys in SLC interested in doing some traveling. Thanks

[Rich Vito]

Chuck-send me your fax number I can give you dates for IMI, Bandemier, CRE and Grand Junction (but they are not open).

send to my home e-mail: kartrace@earthlink.net

thanks
rich vito
Rotax #51

[John Rust]

I don't get it. If I bought a new ic engine for anything: racing kart, station wagon, lawn mower, snowblower, whatever and it crapped out every time I moved the throttle too quickly, I'd be pissed off. I'm sure that if my new tiller was exhibiting this behavior, Home Depot wouldn't think twice about giving me a full refund. If every Trench Hoe 2000 had engine problems, I doubt Home Depot would even continue to stock them. So why are people willing to sacrifice clutch and brake parts to keep their engines from sputtering? Why isn't every Rotax owner trying to get his or her money refunded? If there are legitimate reasons, I'd like to hear them. The Rotax's low maintenance and lack of blueprinting almost had me sold. Smells like Jonestown to me.

[Chuck Courter]

quote:

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Originally posted by John Rust:
I don't get it. If every Trench Hoe 2000 had engine problems, I doubt Home Depot would even continue to stock them The Rotax's low maintenance and lack of blueprinting almost had me sold. Smells like Jonestown to me.

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John,

After having raced "tiller" motors for several years, I can asure you the Rotax is far less expensive over the long haul to race and figure 3 to 5 times more horsepower. I can also show you how to EXPLODE that tiller motor in short order. There are do's and dont's to all of them.

I still like the sound of a good tiller motor but that doesn't make it fast as a Rotax.

Chuck Courter

[Bryan Mappe]

All I know is I just threw a rod in my riding lawnmower's 20HP Briggs&Stratton twin mill but my Rotax is still going strong (knock on aluminum).

[Chuck Courter]

quote:

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Originally posted by Bryan Mappe:
All I know is I just threw a rod in my riding lawnmower's 20HP Briggs&Stratton twin mill but my Rotax is still going strong (knock on aluminum).

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Just don't tell Home Depot about the cam you installed and the fact you pulled the governor out and I'm sure they will give your money back as long as they know you kept it under 7500 r's.

Chuck

[erik nystuen]

Home Depot,
Return policy. 30 days (no receipt needed, no questions asked )
90 days Receipt required and questions asked

So break it IN GOOD Take that anyway you like.

[Bryan Mappe]

Hmmm, what about 3+ years, rode hard and put up wet???

But boy, you should hear the noise they make when they let go...

[Rich Vito]

I agree totally with Jay Sharpe's comments above.

My kart ran fine the last two weekends now that it is fixed. You drive a rotax with your brakes not the gas. You stand on the GAS and brake to control rpms and from sliding off the track.

rich vito
rotax #51
IMI, Colorado