One piece 35 sprockets?

[Michael R Johnson]

Totally off the wall question!

Has anyone ever seen a one piece 35 Sprocket? (as opposed to typical two piece)

Yes! 4 cycles use inboard drive! Im just wondering! Thanks!
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Michael Johnson
MJDrive

[Richard Gray]

Absolutely, and we just "hacksaw" a radius and twist them around the axle. Saves all that alignment headache. I put the slot through one of the mounting holes, the one closest to the valley of a tooth, and use a larger washer for that bolt/nut.
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Richard


"Running into the sun but I'm running behind"

[Michael R Johnson]

I don't understand what you just wrote.

We change axles a lot, it is easy to do. Just wondering if there are one piece 35 sprockets.

Thanks
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Michael Johnson
MJDrive

[Dean Graves]

Did the same thing as Richard, but with 219 sprockets. It works well and fast without changing axle.

[Michael R Johnson]

Wow! That works? Cool!

Where did you come up with these one piece sprockets? Would like to give it a try!

Thanks
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Michael Johnson
MJDrive

[Richard Gray]

Haven't raced 4-cycle in a number of years, but we used 1 pc Horstman sprockets which were available from a number of full service kart dealers.
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Richard


"Running into the sun but I'm running behind"

[Rob Kozakowski]

[Richard Gray]

We used to race 4-cycle (Honda) in Canada and as you probably know, thees engines have the pto shaft on the left side of the engine. This then makes the sprocket carrier and sprocket inboard of the axle bearing carrier making it a task to change the gear ratio if using a one piece sprocket; usually people resort to using two piece sprockets instead of moving the axle out of the way for a simple gear change. Many have found that aligning the two piece sprocket can be a challenge, the two halves slopping enough to make the chain "jump" at the break points. Two piece sprocket alignment is certainly not an impossible task, nor even one that is especially difficult, but it can be frustrating in the heat of preparation for the next race.

In order to alleviate the frustration, we simply used one piece sprockets. We slit one side of the sprocket, locating the slit at the valley of one of the teeth which most closely aligned with one of the six mounting holes. Then, we can hold the sprocket on each side of that slit and twist it open just enough to clear the axle. This is not enough to permanently deform the sprocket. The six attaching bolts on the carrier are then secured; we use a slightly oversized washer to bridge the slit and assure the sides were drawn up in case of slight deformation.

This method saved some time while changing sprockets, saved having to keep the two halves of split sprockets together and allowed us to use flat, stacked storage. It further saved wear on the chains and sprockets by eliminating the occasional "jumping" encountered with two piece sprockets and however slight, allowed more consistent application of power.

I will add that I personally never used a 50mm axle in our 4-cycle racing and I can see where some might be reluctant to twist a sprocket enough to clear that added 10mm. In the Cadet and Novice classes we used mostly 30mm axles and 40mm for the higher classes.

We used this method for many years on 4-cycle racing without ever experiencing one problem, changing virtually thousands of sprockets. As I sad above, we used Horstman sprockets, exclusively, but I do not think it would be any problem using the Premier or other manufacturer's components.
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Richard


"Running into the sun but I'm running behind"

[Rob Kozakowski]