brake bias setup

Henrik Thun Rasmussen · Joined: 26 Jul 2001 Posts: 44 Location: columbia, Maryland

I am replacing the brake bias system I had the enginetics type that is plated that has the adjuster bolt sideways and moves the brake rod closer or away from the master cylinders with the other type that has the brake rod connected dirrectly on one the master cylinders has an aluminum block connecting the other side and a romote adjusting nob hooked up to the other cylinder. It is made by emmick but a couple others make same setup. I'm told it is much safer should one of the braking sytems fail. I am trying to figure how it works, which Cylinder should the main brake rod be hooked up to? and what if the front MC moves a little more than the rear? How is it gonna apply full front brakes? It dosnt seem as complicated as I make it out to be but if any one has experience with this set up Im sure they can explain how to set it up. Thanks HTR

Joe Galyon · Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2001 9:08 pm Post subject: brake bias setup

You might want to try putting a clutch spring on the front connection so it will automatically compensate for wear on the fronts during a race. Worked well for me.

David Bauder · Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2001 10:10 pm Post subject: brake bias setup

Henrik,
Your main brake rod goes to the rear cylinder and then attach the shorter rod to the front cylinder. This will alow you to adjust your front bias off of what your rears are doing. Me personaly (KT100 laydown) prefer just a little more rear than front brake. My front cylinder always has a little more adjustment in it than rear and that is ok as long as you do not over adjust it to where the fluid never replaces it self. Hope this helps , have fun. once you get it figured out it will be real easy to adjust... Happy Karting

[ August 07, 2001: Message edited by: Bauder ]

Mark Horne · Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2001 6:32 am Post subject: brake bias setup

I set my Kt100 enduro at 32 - 38% front bias. I made a collar that slips over the wheel hubs. It has a 3/8 drive socket pressed into it. With a digital torque wrench set at peak record, I check the fronts and then dived the rear into that value. The brake is held constant with a Quick clamp.