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Jeff Spencer
Joined: 01 Jan 2011
Posts: 21
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 Posted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:48 pm Post subject: Jr 1 Animal, recommend chassis |
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I plan to start my kid in Jr1 Animal this season. I plan to go with used equipment.
1. How many races etc can an Animal engine go before needing a major refresh?
2. I see lots of guys claiming only 3-4 races on their engines, 4 is the most common. How comon is it for someone to use an engine for just 4 races? Are they passed their prime, or are these guys moving up or out?
3. Which used Cadet chassis have done well in Jr1 Animal? Any recommends would be appreciated. Which chassis would you target if you were setting up a second hand kart?
4. Do Cadet karts go soft with use and age? In that my boy is a novice, how much of a concern is this in reality?
5. What parts are desireable, yet still legal, i.e. clutches, motor mounts, ...
Thank you,
Jeff |
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John Matthews
Joined: 04 Dec 2004
Posts: 1986
Location: United States, Michigan, Williamsburg
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| Posted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 3:46 pm Post subject: Re: Jr 1 Animal, recommend chassis |
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| Jeff Spencer wrote: | I plan to start my kid in Jr1 Animal this season. I plan to go with used equipment.
1. How many races etc can an Animal engine go before needing a major refresh?
2. I see lots of guys claiming only 3-4 races on their engines, 4 is the most common. How comon is it for someone to use an engine for just 4 races? Are they passed their prime, or are these guys moving up or out?
3. Which used Cadet chassis have done well in Jr1 Animal? Any recommends would be appreciated. Which chassis would you target if you were setting up a second hand kart?
4. Do Cadet karts go soft with use and age? In that my boy is a novice, how much of a concern is this in reality?
5. What parts are desireable, yet still legal, i.e. clutches, motor mounts, ...
Thank you,
Jeff |
Hi Jeff,
Welcome to karting, I started out with my dad way back in 1977 and looking back it was some of the best times we ever had 
Question #4 is probably the most important one out there. IMHO when a kid or any driver is just starting out there are so many things to learn it's best to just focus on a few. Tire pressure, chassis set-up, and driving will be the keys to getting competitive ASAP. The way to check a used chassis is to feel under the main frame rails, if they feel rough and flattened out keep looking. Other than cracks or crash damage the only thing to be aware of is the frame rail wearing down from too many trips over the curbs. A little damage is fine but if the are flat then they are almost worn through and the chassis won't work right. Brand doesn't matter nearly as much as condition, it's best if you can get one from a team that's moved up at your local track so they can help with set-up.
As for engine refresh times, you should be able to run a full season on a restricted motor without any appreciable performance degradation. The only thing I'd even consider doing is to lap the valves halfway through the season. I build plenty of open class motors that go a full year without even doing that. Make sure you change your oil after every race and don't overheat it, you will be fine.
One thing you can consider is getting a Briggs Jr. LO206. It's a great value and if your local club hasn't considered adopting it then they should. It takes all the engine mumbo/jumbo out of the equation for a new racing dad and allows you to focus on getting the kart set-up and training your driver. Even if they aren't running the LO206 you might want to start there as you're very unlikely to get beat just because of engines at this level. Folks get really competitive with their engines but the restrictor pretty much limits the total power you can get no matter how much you spend. If you go with the LO206 or Jr. LO206 you can always have it built to WKA/IKF spec later and the only thing you'll have to change is the coil.
Don't buy into the hype thrown around the track by folks who've only been at it a year longer than you. Find a shop you trust and set a budget for your racing so you know what to expect this year and next if you decide to upgrade. But remember, winning comes through hard work and experience, not buying stuff. I'm sure this is the best lesson you can hope to teach your kid.
Any more questions just ask....
_________________
John Matthews
Heartbeat Power, LLC. |
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Mike Zamora
Joined: 26 Nov 2008
Posts: 56
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| Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 4:04 pm Post subject: |
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Jeff,
My daughter and I just finished our 4th yr in Jr 1 Animal and it is an excelent class in terms of ease of maintenance and in teaching a driver to be smooth and consistent.
#1 We always went all season running club & gold cups without a freshen. It's not a big deal if you close the valves after EVERY TIME you shut the engine off. Even if it's just to warm it up. I would just grab the clutch and roll the motor over until it stops from the compression, that way you know the valves are closed. We ran 26 races in all last season plus countless practice days and our motor is still bad fast. Also, I recomend using Red-E oil and change it at the end of each day you run. I used 14oz.
#3 We used Nevoso chassis (there is a diference) I prefered old chassis because you want a cadet, especially a Jr 1 Animal, to be as free as posible and not bound up at all. Ours flexed so much that you could pick up either rear wheel about 1 1/2" off the ground and the other 3 would stay on the ground. That being said, our biggest competetion all season was driving a brand new Wildkart cadet. I was very impressed with that chassis. IMHO I think a European chassis is the way to go.
#5 I recomend standard Douglas spun aluminum wheels, mag wheels gave too much grip. Shockwave Ultra Soft axles for reduced rear grip. Burris 5 deg motor mount. I liked the Tomar TD-43 clutch. We ran 45.5% to 46% front weight, again to keep the kart free.
Feel free to PM me with any other questions. |
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