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Did I get a good deal? What now?
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Scott Vielgut



Joined: 08 Aug 2001
Posts: 38
Location: United States, Wisconsin, Hubertus

PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you need OEM Haase parts you can contact National Kart Supply as they have been an importer of the Haase line of karts for many years. There phone number is 877-8-HAASE (877-894-2273) or email mark@nationalkartsupply.com.

You could also conatct Two Cycle Technology. They have been a Haase dealer for over 13 years. If you have questions on the engine they should be able to help you with that. 262-628-2438 or scott@twocycletechnology.com
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Bryan Shear



Joined: 28 Feb 2013
Posts: 31
Location: United States, Hemet, CA,

PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robert Brooks wrote:
Bryan,
Empire karts is in Redlands and has been there for over 15 years. (they have way more than 15 yrs experience) They are close to you and could locate just about anything you need. They are open till 9pm on wednesdays and most saturdays. I suggest going and visiting them, and maybe even taking the kart with you. In the long run, you'll get the where it needs to be sooner and with less trouble and less $.
www.empirekarts.com
(909) 793-9695

Tri-C karters has a place for you to race in the Sr 100 cc class when you are ready.
www.tri-ckarters.com
THX, RB


Damn! I just drove past them today. I work in Redlands LOL! Awesome
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Ray Mcik



Joined: 26 Mar 2005
Posts: 532

PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do not think this has been mentioned , but you stated it had L&T wet clutch, first go buy a quart of L&T brand clutch fuild and a can of brake clean, Make sure you check the fluid level every time before going on out on the track, if you do not you will burn it up and the clutches are not cheap...then at the end of the day or before you start for the day, clean the clutch and replace with new fluid .
Go here and do some reading...the FAQ page is a good place to start.

http://www.ltmfg.com/ L&T provides some good support so do not hesitate to call them.
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Nick Weil



Joined: 18 Jul 2001
Posts: 1795
Location: United States, Florida, Orlando, FL US of A

PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What history do you have on this kart?

I swear it looks like one of my first karts that I sold several years ago right down to that trusty ol' Digatron...
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Authorized Rotax Service Center and Dealer since 2002
2004 Team USA Rotax Worlds Finals DD-2 Driver


Want to save money AND grow the economy? www.fairtax.org
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Bryan Shear



Joined: 28 Feb 2013
Posts: 31
Location: United States, Hemet, CA,

PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nick Weil wrote:
What history do you have on this kart?

I swear it looks like one of my first karts that I sold several years ago right down to that trusty ol' Digatron...


Picked it up on an offroad forum in the "other" classifieds section. I just offered the guy 500 for it. He said sure why not.

He said he bought it off a neighbor who bought it for his kid, but said kid never took to it. That's all I know. I think I scored.
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Bryan Shear



Joined: 28 Feb 2013
Posts: 31
Location: United States, Hemet, CA,

PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PICS IN NEXT POST

Well I finally had some time to tear into the Kart tonight. Looks like this is to do list.

1. Seat is tiny I can't fit into it. I am 6'3 210 so I think I will need a Large Seat. Tillet the only way to go? Best way to fogure out location to mount?

2.Brake Fluid. Master Cylinder is empty. Just open the allens on the cylindar and fill up? What DOT fluid? Then bleed.....pump pump pump......then do I crack a bolt on the Rear Caliper somehwere?

3. Clutch fluid. How do you top it off each time you use it? How often do you need to change the fluid. Best way to disassemble?

4. Need to get a tank. Took mine out. Online they look like 35-45 for the same tank I had on it.

5. Any type of tire spoon work for changing tires?

6. What ratio do you mix oil with gas....87 or 91 octane?

7. Should I just get a carb rebuild kit since the motor has been sitting?

8. No air filter inside the air filter tube/box thing

9. Does the steering heims on the steering column look correct....what's with the extra tab below? Just more options for a different geometry?
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Bryan Shear



Joined: 28 Feb 2013
Posts: 31
Location: United States, Hemet, CA,

PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definitely Dirty. I'm working on that. Feel free to let me know if yo usee anything that needs fixing.

















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Nick Weil



Joined: 18 Jul 2001
Posts: 1795
Location: United States, Florida, Orlando, FL US of A

PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep... That's my kart from before 2001! That fin on the head got broke during a 'climb-over' in probably 1998 or '99. So funny to see the beast still around. Good luck with it!
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2004 Team USA Rotax Worlds Finals DD-2 Driver


Want to save money AND grow the economy? www.fairtax.org
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Paul Makarucha



Joined: 11 Jun 2002
Posts: 858
Location: United States, New Jersey,

PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bryan Shear wrote:

1. Seat is tiny I can't fit into it. I am 6'3 210 so I think I will need a Large Seat. Tillet the only way to go? Best way to fogure out location to mount?

2.Brake Fluid. Master Cylinder is empty. Just open the allens on the cylindar and fill up? What DOT fluid? Then bleed.....pump pump pump......then do I crack a bolt on the Rear Caliper somehwere?

3. Clutch fluid. How do you top it off each time you use it? How often do you need to change the fluid. Best way to disassemble?

4. Need to get a tank. Took mine out. Online they look like 35-45 for the same tank I had on it.

5. Any type of tire spoon work for changing tires?

6. What ratio do you mix oil with gas....87 or 91 octane?

7. Should I just get a carb rebuild kit since the motor has been sitting?

8. No air filter inside the air filter tube/box thing

9. Does the steering heims on the steering column look correct....what's with the extra tab below? Just more options for a different geometry?


1- IMAF makes awesome (and cheap) seats. I prefer them personally. Check out the link in my sig for ACTIONKARTRACING.com Their site is not really ready yet, but give the Owner Jeremy a call (732-636-2555), he can hook you up with anything you need and has IMAF seats available.

2- I don't recall the DOT for tonykart brakes but again Jeremy at Action will know as he's a Tonykart dealer. He can probably get you a gas tank as well. As far as bleeding, if I recall, that system really requires a gravity bleeder to properly bleed since they don't have a reservoir.

3- A syringe of sorts is commonly used. Fill until fluid level is just under the crank shaft. If fluid level is higher than that it can siphon itself out.

4- see #2

5- Someone better than me can answer this. I use a machine because I'm a puss. Schumacher does it by hand.

6- Pump fuels are no bueno because of the ethanol typically mixed in now. A 91+ octane fuel or better yet VP MS98 or similar will keep the motor and carb happy. 8oz per gallon oil mix.

7- Yes, they're cheap and easy to install. Actionkart has them as well. hah!

8- Get one as cheap insurance.

9- Many people run that way, others run longer bolts through the bottom part of the mount and have spaces to take up the gap. Nothing wrong with the way yours is mounted though.
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Bryan Shear



Joined: 28 Feb 2013
Posts: 31
Location: United States, Hemet, CA,

PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nick Weil wrote:
Yep... That's my kart from before 2001! That fin on the head got broke during a 'climb-over' in probably 1998 or '99. So funny to see the beast still around. Good luck with it!


That's crazy. Sounds like this thing has had many miles put on it. I guess my plan is to freshen the thing up. Get some seat time and them plan on finding a better used chassis and stepping up to like a rotax 125 with a crg chassis.

Paul,

Thanks for taking the time to answer all my questions. Very helpful.
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Max Wood



Joined: 19 Sep 2001
Posts: 704
Location: United States, New York, Rochester

PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bryan,

Regarding the clutch...
The L&T has two allen head filler plugs and a line etched in the face of it to aid with filling. Remove both plugs, turn the clutch so the line is parallel to the ground, and fill through the top plug hole until fluid comes out the bottom hole. It doesn't have to be perfect. You may have to take the third bearing arm off the mount to do this. Take the cover off after every track day, spray out clutch with brake clean, let dry and refill.

Listen carefully to this...
Replace the 4 "dog bones" (lever strap pins) on the clutch BEFORE hitting the track for the first time, and after every third track day at a minimum. These are cheap to replace and WILL break eventually. The clutch will be destroyed if they do. It's a great clutch, but this is a known weakness that requires maintenance. You've been warned. Wink

http://www.tsracing.com/store/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Product_ID=1243&CATID=10

The brakes will probably be your biggest headache. I had the same ones on a Tony Kart and they were a PITA. Take them completely apart, clean them up, and replace all internal seals. Hopefully you don't have pitting, but odds are good that you will. I cleaned mine up with 1000 grit sandpaper and WD40. I used DOT 3 for brake fluid, but check with the dealer to verify as it's been 10 years since I had this kart.
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Chris Livengood



Joined: 24 Jul 2001
Posts: 2432
Location: United States, Pennsylvania, Da Burgh

PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Max is right, those brakes were terrible.
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Oscar Biondi



Joined: 27 Sep 2011
Posts: 219
Location: United States, California, Carmichael

PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DOT 3/4 for those brakes. You will need a gravity bleeder bottle. As mentioned before, don't just refill with brake fluid. Since the master cylinders are dry, you will find some corrosion in the system. Take it apart, clean the bores and if they are still useable, get all new seals. Good luck!
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Bryan Shear



Joined: 28 Feb 2013
Posts: 31
Location: United States, Hemet, CA,

PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies. After doing allot of reading, I think I might have jumped the gun buying this Kart. I know I got it for a great price. But it looks like it will cost me a fair amount of money to get this thing running, then at the end of the day I still have a very outdated Kart.

I think I am going to sell it off to my neighbor and just buck up and drop about 2500 on a track ready Kart. I think I will enjoy this hobby much more by going that route!
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Dan Haynes



Joined: 17 Sep 2007
Posts: 2368
Location: United States, Pennsylvania, Ellwood City

PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you do a search you will find that is usually the advice given. It is almost always cheaper to buy a few year old kart that is race ready than to buy an old one that has been laying around the garage and returning it to race condition. For some people that is the right move though. Depends on what you want to get out of it.

I don't think you got a bad deal but if you want to get on the track and be competitive then you will soon wish you had something newer. I did the same thing when we switched to 2 cycle. Not that old of a kart but old enough that I wished I would have waited to find something better.

Good luck.
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