2000 vs 1999 ignition curves

Vernon Head · Posted: Fri Mar 01, 2013 11:51 am Post subject: 2000 vs 1999 ignition curves

I've searched the forum for this, and never found any useable information. I have the 2000 ignition right now, but am considering swapping in a '99. Anyone know how these two years would compare? I have a stock '99 cylinder. I'm autocrossing, so the rules allow different years.

Jim McMahon · Posted: Fri Mar 01, 2013 2:13 pm Post subject:

Do you have both on hand right now? I believe the connectors are different..
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Vernon Head · Posted: Fri Mar 01, 2013 2:53 pm Post subject:

Just have the 2000. And you are correct, the connectors don't match. About all I can find out is that the 2000/2001 cylinder has good top end, not so good on the bottom. I wonder if it is worth the money for a whole new setup.

Todd Kageals · Joined: 15 Jun 2012 Posts: 271

The only difference you will see is the $400 you are missing in your wallet Laughing

Seriously....I doubt there will be any difference in your lap times using the the 2000 or 1999 ignition and the 1999 is in such high demand (only one allowed for stock Honda) that the used prices are ridiculous! I ended up buying a brand new ignition setup because the used ones were almost as much. Just my humble opinion.

Vernon Head · Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 10:55 am Post subject:

I priced it at Service Honda. Almost $500 delivered.

Randy Mckee · Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:16 pm Post subject:

Try Partzilla. I think you can get it for a little over $400 delivered. That's for just the cdi and alternator assembly.

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1999/CR125R+A/LEFT+CRANKCASE+COVER/parts.html
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Randy Mckee · Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:20 pm Post subject:

Oh, and I agree with Todd. I don't have a dyno to back this up, but I think you won't notice much of a difference. Go with an aftermarket intake instead (if rules allow). That should make the powerband more useable.
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Larry Andrews · Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 11:11 pm Post subject:

Vernon - I'll give you back the V-force reed block you gave me a while ago... It needs new reeds but is complete otherwise and it's always good to have fresh reeds.

Vernon Head · Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 11:51 pm Post subject:

Thanks!

Jim McMahon · Posted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 6:31 am Post subject:

Yeah for that money you could get a programmable CDI with multiple maps. Problem is that they are often tuned in symphony with particular compression settings and possibly even static timing. If you are splashing out $400 I think I'd go with a good mod cylinder and the reeds. Something thats not too peaky though, so probably low(er) compression, wider rather than taller ports. Maybe you can find a cylinder that's been proven to work well in autoX?
_________________
Live in the midwest and have a TaG, Shifter, KPV, KT100, Animal\LO206, enduro or superkart?
Click here to join the karting festival at Blackhawk, IL June 1st-2nd.

Chris Reinhardt · Posted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 11:25 am Post subject:

Vernon Head · Posted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 4:14 pm Post subject:

I'm going to try the '95 I got from a friend. I'll let you know how it comes out.

Dan Davis · Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 7:28 am Post subject:

Long story short, advance your stator a little from stock (If sprint racing) using your 2000 CDI, watch your egt, and spend your money on tires. The 95 isn't a bad curve but you might want to retard it a bit to start with.....it is a bit more advanced than the commonly used 99 curve especially if your engine is set up on the edge detonation using your 2000 CDI.

Vernon Head · Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:08 am Post subject:

Wow, where did you get those curves? The '95 looks quite a bit more advanced than the '99 (except for that "hump" at around 8k), and the 2000 looks quite a bit less.

Dan Davis · Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 6:39 am Post subject:

The curves shown are supplied with the Vortex programming software. So we are assuming that they are accurate.
That 99 advance hump is where the engine with power valves is really starting to make power on a bike but doesn't really have too much affect on a kart application unless in a really slow corner. The meat of the curve for kart application is 10,000-12,500 and possibly 13,000 in some situations like over-rev in road racing application.
Even though the curves look hugely different, they are all within around 5 deg. of each other within the usable RPM range and with varied static stator positioning, they all could perform pretty close. I'd prefer the 95 (retarded at stator) or 99 curve for RR because they don't have the rev/over-rev limiting or detonation causing advance over 12,500 but for a sprint application, they could all work OK since the engine is not at that high rpm for long periods of time.