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Robert Daniel
Joined: 26 Oct 2008
Posts: 119
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 Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 9:08 pm Post subject: |
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| Since the engine is not legal for stock moto get a Mikuni TMX 38 as it is a better carb than the Keihin and there are lots of them around. Also you don't need a pump around carb. Pick your preference for oil and run at least 6oz/gallon--more oil makes more horsepower and the engine likes it. |
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Charles Frerking
Joined: 15 Aug 2012
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 11:43 am Post subject: |
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| Tyson Henry wrote: | | Also a standard PWK or PWM with a smaller valve inlet seat and needle. Works great also. |
on a previous reply, I wrote I had a Mikuni form some reason - I have the stock PJ carb.
What kind of difference am I going to see going to a PWK, for instance? I imagine it's a matter of throttle response, HP gains, etc? The big question is cost/benefit - is it going to make a night and day difference over the PJ?
My plan is to utilize what I have for now, and assess as I go - but this will tell me how aggresively to look into the PWK (or other) options.
I can imagine that it's more of a collective gain, the carb + power valve elimination, etc. Is any ONE thing going to make a bigger gain than the other? |
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Tyson Henry
Joined: 10 Aug 2011
Posts: 360
Location: United States, Texas, Arlington
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| Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 11:47 am Post subject: |
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I am sure you can use the PJ. How well will it run? I have no idea.
Even using the PJ though, you are going to have to change the valve/needle seat out so that the fuel pump isn't over powering the standard valve that is designed for a gravity fed system.
If you aren't racing, just get out there and run it. Worry about power and a proper build when the time comes. |
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Michael Taksa
Joined: 25 Jul 2001
Posts: 1427
Location: United States, Massachusetts, Boston
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| Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 12:00 pm Post subject: |
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| I think stock carb will be fine, and stock needle/seat, just run a "Y" or "T" return line back to the tank with single pump, that way extra gas will not be forced nto the carb. |
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Charles Frerking
Joined: 15 Aug 2012
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 12:14 pm Post subject: |
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| Tyson Henry wrote: | | If you aren't racing, just get out there and run it. Worry about power and a proper build when the time comes. |
I guess what I'm really trying to do is avoid doing the same thing twice. In this case, the PJ will need to be rebuilt, I'm not going to do that if I decide that the benefits of another carb are such that I don't even want to bother with this one.
I may not be racing, but I want this thing to put out as much reliable power as possible. |
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Tyson Henry
Joined: 10 Aug 2011
Posts: 360
Location: United States, Texas, Arlington
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| Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 1:16 pm Post subject: |
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| Michael Taksa wrote: | | I think stock carb will be fine, and stock needle/seat, just run a "Y" or "T" return line back to the tank with single pump, that way extra gas will not be forced nto the carb. |
I have found and others as well that this isn't always the case. Guarantee though, that if you put the correct seat and needle size on the carb for a pressurized system it will work great.
The cost of replacing the needle and seat is significantly less than replacing the carb. |
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Todd Kageals
Joined: 15 Jun 2012
Posts: 285
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| Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 1:58 pm Post subject: |
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| Charles Frerking wrote: | | Tyson Henry wrote: | | If you aren't racing, just get out there and run it. Worry about power and a proper build when the time comes. |
I guess what I'm really trying to do is avoid doing the same thing twice. In this case, the PJ will need to be rebuilt, I'm not going to do that if I decide that the benefits of another carb are such that I don't even want to bother with this one.
I may not be racing, but I want this thing to put out as much reliable power as possible. |
On my '94, the stock PJ made great power and was very responsive. I can't say that I noticed any difference in the power with the 38mm PWK that I now have on it. I'm sure at the top if flows more than the slightly smaller PJ but not enough to notice "seat of the pants". |
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Charles Frerking
Joined: 15 Aug 2012
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:34 pm Post subject: |
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Well, I started to pull the motor apart the other night, I think I'm having a change of heart.
I pulled the cylinder off and inspected it - long story short, it's going to need a replate - at best. Then I pulled the transmission drain plug. I've drained a lot of oil in my day, and I don't think I've ever seen it come in silver. I think the oil in the transmission is from 1994, just like the motor.
I'm going to continue to tear down the motor when I get a chance, but I'm thinking I might just part it out and keep my eyes open for a decent used motor package in the classifieds.
Thanks for all the help! If I decide to proceed with the build, I'll surely be asking more questions! |
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joseph hollinger
Joined: 12 Sep 2002
Posts: 9536
Location: United States, California, san francisco
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| Posted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:58 pm Post subject: |
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The silver oil is just material from the clutch plates. You can't tell much until you get the thing apart. On the other hand, there are lots of complete packages for sale (just look in the classifies) and it might be hard to put something together on your own that will cost as little.
_________________
A lie gets halfway around the world before the truth has a chance to get its pants on. -- Winston Churchill. |
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Charles Frerking
Joined: 15 Aug 2012
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 10:10 pm Post subject: |
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| joseph hollinger wrote: | | The silver oil is just material from the clutch plates. You can't tell much until you get the thing apart. On the other hand, there are lots of complete packages for sale (just look in the classifies) and it might be hard to put something together on your own that will cost as little. |
ah, you're right I hadn't thought about the wet clutch. I have been on the fence since I started going down this path - seeing a couple of engine packages here and there for $1500 +/- is pretty tempting, will definitely get me on the track sooner!
I might just tear this one apart, keep what's usable and clean up the parts and keep them for a rainy day. Been talking to a couple guys selling moto motors, would like to pick one up locally, but they're all coming up across the country!
Patience... |
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Todd Kageals
Joined: 15 Jun 2012
Posts: 285
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| Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 10:29 am Post subject: |
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| Well...been down that road about 6 months ago. You can rebuild yours (assuming transmission and cases are good) with all new Honda parts including a new cylinder for about $1000.00. The advantage is that everything except the transmission will be brand new. The disadvantage of course is the time it will take. You would also still have a motor that is not technically legal in stock Honda due to the '94 cases. Depends on where you plan to run it. Kinda nice to everything (well...almost everything) is brand new. |
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joseph hollinger
Joined: 12 Sep 2002
Posts: 9536
Location: United States, California, san francisco
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| Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 10:52 am Post subject: |
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| Todd Kageals wrote: | | Well...been down that road about 6 months ago. You can rebuild yours (assuming transmission and cases are good) with all new Honda parts including a new cylinder for about $1000.00. The advantage is that everything except the transmission will be brand new. The disadvantage of course is the time it will take. You would also still have a motor that is not technically legal in stock Honda due to the '94 cases. Depends on where you plan to run it. Kinda nice to everything (well...almost everything) is brand new. |
If you're going that route, why not buy the kit motor?
_________________
A lie gets halfway around the world before the truth has a chance to get its pants on. -- Winston Churchill. |
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Tyson Henry
Joined: 10 Aug 2011
Posts: 360
Location: United States, Texas, Arlington
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| Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 11:45 am Post subject: |
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| joseph hollinger wrote: | | Todd Kageals wrote: | | Well...been down that road about 6 months ago. You can rebuild yours (assuming transmission and cases are good) with all new Honda parts including a new cylinder for about $1000.00. The advantage is that everything except the transmission will be brand new. The disadvantage of course is the time it will take. You would also still have a motor that is not technically legal in stock Honda due to the '94 cases. Depends on where you plan to run it. Kinda nice to everything (well...almost everything) is brand new. |
If you're going that route, why not buy the kit motor? |
Because it is significantly more expensive? |
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Michael Taksa
Joined: 25 Jul 2001
Posts: 1427
Location: United States, Massachusetts, Boston
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| Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:45 pm Post subject: |
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| Not really, you are thinking of the price of "complete" motor, kit does not have the pipe, carb, ets, plus it is not assembled. price is higher, but not as much as you would think. It maes sence to go that way, purely based on resale value. |
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Tyson Henry
Joined: 10 Aug 2011
Posts: 360
Location: United States, Texas, Arlington
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| Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:46 pm Post subject: |
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| Michael Taksa wrote: | | Not really, you are thinking of the price of "complete" motor, kit does not have the pipe, carb, ets, plus it is not assembled. price is higher, but not as much as you would think. It maes sence to go that way, purely based on resale value. |
What is the cost of the kit motor? I thought it was over $2000. |
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