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FJA Kart Wanted
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Scott Boito



Joined: 21 Jul 2008
Posts: 266
Location: United States, Tennessee, Kingsport

PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's only a chassis you're shipping (without wheels and motor) the shipping should be closer to $100-200. I've heard that Greyhound bus is an excellent way to ship in that configuration since it fits nicely in the cargo hold.

For cost, I think a few folks like to point out that the WF is not, in fact, more expensive. If you're looking at new, it's about $1k complete with clutch and electric starter on-board. New KT100 is $700+ plus a $300 clutch. Plus $100-200 for a starter and battery. Yes, you can get used KT100s all day long for less than that (I should know since I had two of them and just sold them). But you'll still need a starter and battery for it.

Regarding chassis, 2-stroke chassis can be adapted for a 4-stroke with adjustable mounts and maybe with a removed seat stay (replaced with an adjustable stay). I will be working on this next week, in fact, with the arrival of my boy's new WF tomorrow. I need to figure out a way to mount to his older Top Kart SL28 that already has an adjustable stay. I think it will work just fine, but will let you know when I get it all in one place.
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Clemens Burger



Joined: 13 Nov 2012
Posts: 10
Location: United States, Indiana, Noblesville

PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott,

My comment about cost is directly linked to availability. I have been offered several kart packages with KT100s in the $1100-1500 range, some with significant extras, such as kart stand, extra wheels, etc. So far, I have found only one kart complete with a WF engine for $1600 with no extras.

Obviously, there are additional factors to consider, such as age and condition of the chassis and engine, but the fact that there are more KT100 packages out there, especially in my geographic area, means that I more likely will come across a good deal. I am looking at buying used, ideally a complete package, including engine.


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Clemens Burger



Joined: 13 Nov 2012
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Location: United States, Indiana, Noblesville

PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have another question about cost and items I need if I buy a FJ kart. The obvious items I need are a helmet, a neck brace and a karting suit or other abrasion-resistance clothing.

What else do I need? I assume an extra set of wheels for rain tires, a starter if the kart has a KT100 engine, maybe a different seat if the one that comes with the kart has the wrong size. What else? What are typical costs for those items new and used?


Clemens
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Clemens Burger



Joined: 13 Nov 2012
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Location: United States, Indiana, Noblesville

PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have another question about cost and items I need if I buy a FJ kart. The obvious items I need are a helmet, a neck brace and a karting suit or other abrasion-resistance clothing.

What else do I need? I assume an extra set of wheels for rain tires, a starter if the kart has a KT100 engine, maybe a different seat if the one that comes with the kart has the wrong size. What else? What are typical costs for those items new and used?


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Scott Boito



Joined: 21 Jul 2008
Posts: 266
Location: United States, Tennessee, Kingsport

PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I hear you on the availability. Took me a few times to find a motor I could get and the price was higher than I wanted, but I think the WF is the motor of the future because that's the way the SEB wants it. Kieran has 4-5 more seasons, so the WF is a good bet. Of course I thought that about the two KT100s I bought in 2009 lasting his whole time in junior. If we were still in NJ, we wouldn't have switched until we had to because he could sprint race the KT100, too. Not so much for the WF on the East Coast.

As for the additional items:

Sprockets to give ratios between 7 and 8 (every 2-3 teeth in that range)
Seat and additional stays
New set of MG Reds (4.6x10-5 front and 6.0x11-5 rear)
Tri-flow for the KT-100 clutch bearing
New foam air filter for the airbox (those tear if not very securely mounted)
Safety wire and pliers (you probably already have those)
MyChron for temps and other data
Lead weight if your driver is "below average" weight
Lifetime supply of zip-ties (again, you might already have those)
Replacement spark plugs of a few temps
Tire tools
...And a whole lot more the longer you play.

Prices new can be found on the Cometkartsales.com online store. I would talk to Mark over there to see what you can get for what prices if you show up. Used are any anyone's guess.
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Richard Jung



Joined: 14 Aug 2009
Posts: 25

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian Garfield wrote:
Again, a misnomer about the BWF. If you want to buy separate, with battery start, mount, chain, yadda yadda.... count on $1300 and if you do it for less, great.

That said, you could find some good deals on the BWF because retailers in certain areas can't get rid of them, and just ask for a complete package.

So, buying a used complete package will be significantly cheaper. Remember, it's racing, how fast do you want to go Wink


Also with the required muffler and mount, jets, optional battery, shipping, etc., it comes out to ~$1,500. That's if you do the install and mount the seat properly yourself.
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Joe Ricard



Joined: 23 Jun 2009
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Location: United States, Mississippi,

PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone that says kids in karts is cheap has not done it for very long or has never done it.

Richard your number is about spot on without blueprinting.

A brand new pimpin kart with race, practice and rains for tires, Mychron, jets and weather station, tools, stand is going to be 10 grand. then you need a trailer or truck to transport.
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Karl Hughes



Joined: 15 Aug 2011
Posts: 21

PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We started out with my son driving an ancient Trick chassis with a second-hand Raptor. This chassis belongs to one of our region members and has been handed around between kids for about 15 years now. My older boys drove it for a season, then it went on to others, and came back to me several years ago. Can't get cheaper than that to start, but it was far from competitive.

Now he's running a WF on a CRG Blue Devil chassis (same chassis is used by an adult with a Rotax, so here's one chassi good for 2- and 4-strokes). he likes the CRG/WF combo much better, and is a bit faster. We bought it used from a friend whose son grew out of it. Eventually we'll either sell it, or convert it to TaG...
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Joe Ricard



Joined: 23 Jun 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We did the same thing 5 years ago. bought 5th hand Invader with speedway body painted like the Mach 5. Couldn't get parts for it, handled all kinds of evil. and I was so NEw I couldn't tune it.

Bought a Chassis from Eric Nelson. couple events and a few phone calls and he helped us get the Birel Cadet up to speed. Then I could at least work on the driver. Rolling Eyes

Old invader is now on 7th hand owner I think. It's fine for putting around with a gas Raptor and drum clutch. Almost felt sorry for the Invader driver when she attended the same event as we did. WF newish chassis and tons of seat time.
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Scott Boito



Joined: 21 Jul 2008
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No such thing as karting on the cheap if you do it more than a little. Eventually you'll find that you need this sprocket, that tool, this spare, that new motor, ad infinitum. But it's hard to beat the fun-factor.

Update on the mounting of the WF to a "2-stroke chassis" a Top Kart SL 28. This chassis is already well set-up for this bigger motor since the seat stay is not on the motor side (an adjustable, sliding stay is on the cross-member instead). With his current seat size and position the motor goes on there with lots of room. I have enough space that unless he starts growing like a weed to be much taller than I am, we shouldn't have any placement problems in the future, either.

I can keep it mounted more toward the centerline of the kart to keep the weight more in-board, so I'm a happy dad. There will still be weight to balance side-to-side and front-to-back, but hopefully I'll be able to do it without going too far over the minimum.
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Joe Ricard



Joined: 23 Jun 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Too far over he minimum? Scott did your boy grow a whole bunch recently?

We barely meet min JB WF wieght and I just finished molding bread pan bricks. Seems to work pretty good with 2 bolts and is much more compact. Lead to area ratio...
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Scott Boito



Joined: 21 Jul 2008
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope, he's still a small guy - I must have a heavy chassis or something because I think we'll be close to min as it sits. But in order to balance it all properly so he can turn, I might have to add some weight to the front. I should be able to get the side-to-side with what I already have on the kart, but the question is front to back. I had it perfect for the KT100 last year - perfect side-to-side and front to back. And we only have about 25 lbs on there now (I think).

I'll know more tonight.
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Richard Jung



Joined: 14 Aug 2009
Posts: 25

PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott Boito wrote:
Nope, he's still a small guy - I must have a heavy chassis or something because I think we'll be close to min as it sits. But in order to balance it all properly so he can turn, I might have to add some weight to the front. I should be able to get the side-to-side with what I already have on the kart, but the question is front to back. I had it perfect for the KT100 last year - perfect side-to-side and front to back. And we only have about 25 lbs on there now (I think).

I'll know more tonight.


The WF is heavy at over 50lbs! We have 45lbs of lead with the KT100 and will be over with the WF.

The 285lbs limit is pretty low for a WF. All the JA 12 year olds out here are over the min already, and 2 of the JB racers coming up will be over also. I can't imagine how far over they'll all be at 16. The IKF weight min for Jr. WF sprint is 325lb for parity and safety, which seems about right. It would be nice to have some ballast to balance the heavy lump on the right side. Smile
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Joe Ricard



Joined: 23 Jun 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They must grow them big over there. We will NEVER meet min weight without a **** load of lead.

I am not going visit that topic again.

Anyway Back to wanting to buy a Cheap Competative kart I don't think it is possible. A decent straight kart with good used Gen 5 WF motor adds up to 2 grand.
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Scott Boito



Joined: 21 Jul 2008
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So we have 30 lbs of lead on his kart from the KT100. Min weight for JB next year should be 255 (I think) so I think he'll be overweight with a proper balance. And he's only 65 lbs.
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