Deep Seat

Rick Senechal · Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2001 7:24 am Post subject: Deep Seat

I'm about to mount a Deep Seat onto my Birel R31x. I'm new to karting and I have never mounted a seat. Can anyone give me some words of advise?

Thank you. RS

Darren Swisher · Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2001 8:09 am Post subject: Deep Seat

Rick, Contact charlie at Deepseat.

Charlie can be reached at 1-888-229-0100
or frearseat@aol.com

Darren

david stratton · Joined: 27 Jul 2001 Posts: 23 Location: houston

When i mounted mine, i put the kart on the ground, used a wood block (under the seat)that was equal in thickness to the amount of ground clearance that you want.. then you can sit in the seat and position it as you like. then just mark it drill it and mount it...crg support had some guide lines on seat placement which were 21.5 inches from the heel stop to the front of the seat 22.5 on the left side and about 9.5 inches from the rear axle to the top of the seat back....I am sure there is more to it but that was all i could find out........

Darren Swisher · Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2001 4:10 pm Post subject: Deep Seat

David, I know zero about seats and chassis but I have heard that seat placement is crucial to the kart balance and chassis setup. if its off a little your alot off on the track.

Can anyone elaborate on this?

Darren

Stu Lehr · Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2001 5:30 pm Post subject: Deep Seat

Rick
I mounted a Deepseat on my Birel, same chassis, and love it. I put as far back as I could because I'm 6'1" and wanted my feet as straight as possible. Used the above idea with the wood blocks. Charlie was also very helpful and he loves to help. Give him a call. The seat has saved my ribs this year!

Michael Polizzi · Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 1565

Rick

If you have the old seat intalled and the kart handles good try this.
It was suggested that with your present seat installed you:
use a couple pieces of 1" x 2" wood and place one across the top of your frame rail and on top of your lower rear bumper bar, push it forward until it contacts the back of the seat. tape with an ( X ) pattern to the bumper and he frame rail.
Do the same above it, across the top bumper bar and the axle. Again push forward to touch the back of the seat.Tape with (X) pattern.
To support the seat bottom:
Take a piece of duct tape and attach it from frame rail to frame rail width wise under the seat.
Note: put a piece of tape in the middle (sticky sides together) so it doesn't stick to the seat bottom. I have also used a 2"x2" with shims between the frame rails attached with cable ties for this.
This should do the trick.

As a distributor of deepseats I have found this system to work great. All corner weights stayed within 1 1/2lbs of each other.

Michael Polizzi 69n
Full Bore Karting

Darren Swisher · Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2001 7:39 am Post subject: Deep Seat

I see many differnt seat positions, some sit up straight, some tilt back a bit and other are almost in laydown position. I know different style of racing require a different position but I have seen differences in the same class. What up with that?

[ August 02, 2001: Message edited by: Jeff Franz ]

Todd Bolton · Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 894

Darren,

The differences you are seeing is probably based off different size drivers.... Compare my seat location to someone like Steve Welk or Jon Strohm and you will see I'm more laid back... I do this cause I'm bigger in the upper body and need to lower my CG where as they need the higher CG for the grip...
I think that is one of many reasons for the differences you are seeing.....

[ July 29, 2001: Message edited by: Todd Bolton ]

Darren Swisher · Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2001 5:55 am Post subject: Deep Seat

Ok I get it, Seat position is critical for proper setup, and each individual persons height and weight determine the proper position. Does that sound correct.

Darren

Rick Senechal · Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2001 12:07 pm Post subject: Deep Seat

Thanks for the input.

I just got done welding it into place. I did have problems getting the duct tape to stick to the chassis! Maybe I shouldn't have cut out the bottom of the seat first........

Ok, I did it inslattled and all is great except that my personal "extended porch" makes getting in and out of the seat damn tough!

Thanks, RS

Rick Crow · Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 49 Location: Albany NY

what is so unique about these seats? any pictures?

Rick
BTW you can email if you wish to mudfly@nycap.rr.com

Oscar Aguilera · Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 1614

Seat positon recommended by Chassis manuf. is usually using the stock fiberglass style seat. A Tillet has the same demensions as a fiberglass seat, so you mount it the same unless you are using the flat bottom style Tillet. The flat bottom style goes flush to the bottom of the chassis.

If you are using a Ribtec or Deep Seat you have to take its' measurements and compare where each of these seats if different from a fiberglass seat. If the horns of the seat(the part under your leg) are longer you need to adjust your measureing from the chassis rails to the seat. If the seat is taller than stock the same applies.

I always use a stock seat they are very comfortable for me. I have a short upper body and that is what I mainly attribute it to. People with taller uppper bodies seem to like the aftermarket seats better.

Scott did post that "We use the ribtec seats when conditons call for them". I would assume he is reffering to the stiffness or softness of the seat. Not all seats are the same stiffness and sometimes a more flexable one is needed.

The more it flexes the less grip you get. The less it flexes the more grip you get.

On most chassis you can start at (with a stock seat) 24 cm axle to seat, 57 cm on the motor side, and 56 cm on the brake master side. The measurements are taken from the inside of the front main frame tube to the lip of the seat horn. The seat can go below the frame rails as much as 1/2 inch but I recommend starting at 1/4 inch.(1 cm) Unless you can afford a new seat almost every race.

The taller set up the seat is the more grip. The further front the seat is set up the more front grip. The lower the seat is below the rails the less grip. The further back the seat is the more rear grip.

Tall guys need the seat in the stock postion below the frame rails as much as possible and laid back to now less than 8.25 inches axle to seat.

Hope this helps.

[ August 02, 2001: Message edited by: Jeff Franz ]

Jeff Franz · Joined: 16 Jul 2001 Posts: 524

As some may notice, this thread has now been heavily modified.

The thread now represents the issues addressed in the original topic, and not the sideshow it had become. Observers will note that more than half the posts have been deleted, because they provided little or no technical advice about the issue at hand. I also edited two posts to remove their minor off-topic references, yet keeping their excellent input intact.

It is unfortunate that this had to occur, but is to be expected with the growing pains of these boards.

I have started a new Topic down under EKN Feedback if any forum members wish to discuss my heavy-handedness. That is the place for it, not here.

Thanks,

Jeff Franz
jeff@ekartingnews.com

[ August 02, 2001: Message edited by: Jeff Franz ]

Oscar Aguilera · Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 1614

Mounting the seat should be done on the stand so that all the holes can be drilled exactly. For a small fortune you can buy a seat mounting tool, or build your own.
I took a 1" square tube and cut it the witdth of the chassis plus 2" at the location where the seat bottom would be. Next weld 2 1/2" square tubes side by side at each end on the same side of the 1" square. You should now have a long 1" square tube that can be tie wrapped to the bottom of the frame on its side to get a flush to the frame rails fit. You can also tie wrap it where the smaller tubes touch the chassis rails creating a 1/2" dip between the chassis where the seat bottom is. I then place the seat where it belongs and can drill all the holes accordingly. You can use left over plastic chain guard that is 1/8" thick and stack it on top of the 1" tube to lift the seat in 1/8" increments. I then made an adjustable rod that slides inside of a tube with a nut welded to the side. At the nut you can thread a bolt through to lock the rod at the desired length. The tube has an angle iron welded to the end so that it can rest on top of the axle. Total cost $10.00 for materials and a access to a welder.