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installing a shifter rod
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Cesar Rull



Joined: 08 Sep 2012
Posts: 317
Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines

PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sanford Mitz wrote:
Make one out of a coat hanger or welding rod to simulate positions. Is the lower shift arm pretty close to parallel to the back axle?


what do you call the "lower shift arm" ?
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Cesar Rull



Joined: 08 Sep 2012
Posts: 317
Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines

PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

..........

Last edited by Cesar Rull on Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:20 pm, edited 1 time in total
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Cesar Rull



Joined: 08 Sep 2012
Posts: 317
Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines

PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Troy V Smith wrote:
Laughing
Quote:
a picture is worth 1000 words


Laughing Obviously, not in your case Cesar - a picture includes a 1000 words! Laughing


Thanks for being my favorite troll.
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Sanford Mitz



Joined: 18 Jul 2001
Posts: 309
Location: United States, Wisconsin,

PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bottom of the shift lever near the floor pan
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Chris Reinhardt



Joined: 29 Aug 2002
Posts: 2933
Location: United States, New York, Ossining

PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cesar Rull wrote:
The funny thing is I can do all those things, ,fluid dynamic wouldn't apply to the rod though Wink ... a picture is worth 1000 words.
Like you say maybe I NEED to just install the seat and how things go from there. I would just hate to have re-drill to make the rod fit.


Yah I can too, and also make a shift rod fit!!!! Get used to drilling holes in the seat, that will be the next 9 page post.....

CR
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Sam Zavaglia



Joined: 23 Nov 2004
Posts: 1189
Location: Australia, Sydney,

PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The solidworks picture shows the shift rod is bent too much which makes the shift feel not very positive and hard to shift. Get back on that computer and straighten it up a little. Laughing

Here is a suggestion, buy a kart ready to race, make things a lot less complicated.
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Cesar Rull



Joined: 08 Sep 2012
Posts: 317
Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines

PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, lets start a thread to sell mine...
on a serious note, thanks to everyone for the help.
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Cesar Rull



Joined: 08 Sep 2012
Posts: 317
Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines

PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sanford Mitz wrote:
Make one out of a coat hanger or welding rod to simulate positions. Is the lower shift arm pretty close to parallel to the back axle?


I think this is were the answer to my "problem" lies.

what should be the range of motion of of the shift lever?

IF the shift lever bracket remains parallel to the rear axle the rod will not touch the seat. IF the lever is pushed forward and the angle of the bracket increases, then the rod will touch the seat. The same happens when the bracket moves too far toward the rear.

so the question is when the transmission is in first gear, where is the bottom bracket in relation to the rear axle? is it almost parallel?

Thanks Sanford.
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Sanford Mitz



Joined: 18 Jul 2001
Posts: 309
Location: United States, Wisconsin,

PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In neutral, the lever should be close enough to the wheel so you can get your hand past when turning the wheel.
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Cesar Rull



Joined: 08 Sep 2012
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Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines

PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you.
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Brian Degulis



Joined: 13 Aug 2012
Posts: 419
Location: United States, Florida,

PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cesar you do relize that the shift lever doesn't move very much right? In other words the lever selects the gear in a sequence so the lever is in the same mechanical position in second thru sixth gear. I'm not trying to be a smart ass I just can't imagine that with this little bit of movement there would be any trouble bending the rod and getting it to work.

On my Pavesi the rod is straight. On the KX it's bent up and sightly over to clear the seat.


Brian
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Cesar Rull



Joined: 08 Sep 2012
Posts: 317
Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines

PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

crap man, I couldn't find your e-mail earlier. Yeah I was thinking about what you said.

So when installing the rod what is the best potion on the transmission to use?
neutral? to get good clearance on the steering wheel like sanford mentioned?
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Gene Heagney



Joined: 07 Aug 2009
Posts: 91
Location: United States, Florida, Cocoa Beach

PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does your engine have the j-arm on it (I'm assuming yes or you will have a hard time attaching the shift rod)? If so, run through the gears by hand and closely watch what the j-arm does with each subsequent shift. You should be able to figure out what you need to know by watching this.

It will show you how much throw you need to have in order to change gears (which somewhat depends on the length of the j arm). You should also notice that the j arm pops back to its original location after every shift. This will tell you what range of motion you need from your shift lever for it to work....
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Cesar Rull



Joined: 08 Sep 2012
Posts: 317
Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines

PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes I do. Thank you for the help.
I need did not want to move it because the tranny is dry at the moment since the engine had to be shipped a few weeks ago.
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Gene Heagney



Joined: 07 Aug 2009
Posts: 91
Location: United States, Florida, Cocoa Beach

PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another note, make sure the j arm is as close to vertical as possible on the engine. If you're just clicking through the gears by hand, you aren't going to hurt them without fluid....
You'll see that you only need a little bit of throw either direction to get through the gears. Set your shift lever as Sanford suggested, close to the steering wheel, but not too close that it will hit before a gear is selected. Then figure out how to bend the shift rod to fit from there.... and leave some room for adjustment with the rod ends so you can shorten or lengthen the shift rod when you need to move the engine forward or backward for chain tension.


Last edited by Gene Heagney on Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:37 pm, edited 1 time in total
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