Starting Leopard in cold weather

[Doug Heizenrader]

We have just moved up from World Formula to a (used) IAME Leopard ('0 package. Today was to be our first shakedown run, and unfortunately we were unable to get the engine to fire. The weather was cold (low 40's).

The starter is working fine, and we are getting spark at the plug, but no joy when it comes to starting. Having absolutely no prior 2 cycle experience, we are a bit lost. My sense is that the engine is not drawing fuel, but I don't know.

Are there any special techniques for cold starting in these conditions, or is it more likely there is a problem with the engine.

Any advice for this 2 cycle newbie is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Doug

[Greg Wilkinson]

I'll assume you are running castor oil. Castor oil will seperate from gas at 50 degrees or colder and carb will pump only the heavy oil into the engine.
Blendzall Ultra Castor is the only castor oil that I know of that will not seperate, (has addatives). When you do get it running make sure to get water temp up to at least 100 degress before you run it hard or you will "Cold Stick" the engine.
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Greg Wilkinson
Driver-Angel Wilkinson
"Tag" Team Wilkinson
Kosmic T-11 - Comet Leopard

[Clark Gaynor]

Throw a carb kit in it. Pull the carb to do this and make sure the pulse holes in the manifold/gasket/carb are all lined up. Choke it by putting your hand over the airbox holes while you're cranking it, and watch for the fuel to move from the tank to the carb.
Also wouldn't hurt to richen' up the low and high speed needles on cold days. You don't need to stick the thing.
Clark Sr.

[Matt Dixon]

If you have an external starter that always helps.
If you don't see fuel being pulled into the carb then put a rebuild kit in the carb. If you do choke it do not cover the holes completely, you can damage the pump diaphragm or worst the reeds.
If the low speed needle is to lean it will be hard to start.
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Matt Dixon
94y Energy Corse/Swedetech

[Oscar Biondi]

Make sure there are no air bubbles in the fuel line by the carb. Blow air through the tank vent while you unscrew the screw on the carb's blue plastic inlet and that should push fuel to clear any bubbles.
If you want to choke the carb you can also remove the air box and cover the carb with your hand. Like someone said earlier, if the carb has not been touched for a while, put a rebuild kit on it.

[Greg Wright]

[Clark Gaynor]

Greg's (both of them) are right and I forgot to mention it too. We use Motul 2T pure synthetic year round with no seperation issues. It wouldn't hurt to mix a fresh batch of fuel while you're at it. Why chance old stuff, if that's what's in it. Also for what it's worth, per WKA rules, we run our Motul at 8 oz./gal.

[Patrick Hubbell]

The Leopard starter is marginaly efective and shoul only be useed if you get stranded out on the track. Use an external starter as much as possible. The batteries are less efficient the colder the ambient temperature gets.

If you are using castor oil it will become thick as mud in those temps. Try synthetic oil. 8 ounces per gal.

Make sure you prime the fuel system. There sould not be any bubbles
from the tank to the carb. Set the low speed needle on the carb to 1 turn. Try cranking the engine, you may need to choke it by covering the air intake. crank it over first with your foot off the pedal and the butterfly closed. If it doesn't fire right away, then try choking it. DO NOT try to remove the fuel line from the blue plastic fuel inlet especialy at those temps. the fuel inlet will break. Buy at least one spare, incuding the gasket and screw.

install a new spark plug.

Once started, run the engine untill it gets to at least 100 degrees F. to avoid cold sticking the piston.
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Patrick Hubbell

[Aaron Witzke]

I had no problem starting my leopard on Saturday in 0*-1* (Celsius) weather.

[Paul Makarucha]

FWIW, I always pulled the plug and put a bit of spray oil (your choice, I just used WD-40 or fogging oil) into the cylinder for each first startup on the day. This was just to ensure that there was some oil on the ring before trying to turn it over.
WD-40 also ignites easier than gas so its like cheater/starter fluid to get it going.

Always prime the line to the carb.

After a day of running it is adventitious to spray some fogging oil past the butterfly on the carb (while its running) to coat the bottom end. Then shut it down. This ensures no rust as it sits, and again makes it easier to start next time you take it out.
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[Jim Derrig]

I know people will freak out and claim it will damage the motor, but a small shot of good old fashioned starter fluid into the carb throat will do it every time. Before you do this, take out the spark plug and crank the motor enough to make sure the top end is well lubricated.

[Tim Koyen]

Frequently, in the cold, separated oil can cause the needle valve to stick open and the engine will not start. Only cleaning out the gummy oil from the carb will fix the problem. Use the external starter in the cold, the on board one is very weak. Always prime the carb when starting for the first time by blowing all the bubbles out.
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