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Cesar Rull



Joined: 08 Sep 2012
Posts: 317
Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

make sure to loosen what screws? the ones where the cassettes are attached to the frame?
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Matt Dixon



Joined: 21 May 2007
Posts: 588
Location: United States, California, Norcal

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spray axle with wd40
Spin with 320 grit sandpaper
Wd40 again
Remove set screws
Loosen bolts to the bearing cassettes to free axle up.
Loosen pinch bolts in cassettes
Loosen brake rotor and wedge a large screwdriver in groove to spread
Axle should slide out like butter
Flat file any set screw ridges

As for painting frame, don't bother. First time you roll a chicane right you will just remove it...
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Matt Dixon
94y Energy Corse/Swedetech
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Brian Degulis



Joined: 13 Aug 2012
Posts: 454
Location: United States, Florida,

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cesar Rull wrote:
^ that right, you do live in FL. (I looked at the lake behind your house and the palms.)

So where do you live so I come over and help you (and you can help me) paint my fame !! Wink


I am trying to figure out how to remove the rear axle....

I noticed the cassette is sort of like a clamp, I guess that is how it attaches to the bearing. Then the bearing's inner race seems to be attached to the axle with some set screws.

so if I want to remove the axle, I am thinking I should assemble everything back to the chassis and remove the setscrews I mentioned and start tapping the axle from one end of the kart through each cassette? or is there a better way to do this?

My motivation for wanting to paint the chassis, the previous user scraped the bottom bare to the metal in some areas and I am worried about it rusting and they getting all messed up and having to buy a new frame. (considering I just bought this kart as my first kart)


Tampa area.

The axle bearings etc. is the easy part spindles brake calipers master cylinder and all the other stuff is what takes the time.

I'd think about if everything is in good shape. The one I'm doing was sitting for years and needed quite a bit. I did all the calipers and masters and pads new fuel tank body work etc. The engine is fresh out of Swedtech so getting everything else looking and working good makes sense.

Brian
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Cesar Rull



Joined: 08 Sep 2012
Posts: 317
Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ what about rust prevention? I am being told to just go over with a brush with some sort of paint covering.

If I loosen the pinch bolts on the cassettes won't the bearings come out?

What would you recommend as the best method to test for trueness on the axle? I have a long bubble level, although I was first thinking of rolling the axle on a "flat" concrete floor?

Let me ask you this, when and axle is bent, is it pretty noticeable? and if it bent how to you remove it. The methods devised above are assuming a straight axle.
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Cesar Rull



Joined: 08 Sep 2012
Posts: 317
Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah my chassis looks good form the top lol. But I hear you.
I just want to take it all apart, at least the rear end to make sure it is not bent and just to learn how to tear down my kart.


Last edited by Cesar Rull on Sat Oct 13, 2012 9:12 pm, edited 1 time in total
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Brian Degulis



Joined: 13 Aug 2012
Posts: 454
Location: United States, Florida,

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To check the axle for straight do it on the kart with a dial indicator. If you don't have one just clamp something on the frame just a hair away from the axle and roll the axle by hand while looking at the gap between the clamped piece and the axle. That's crude but it will show a big bend.


Brian
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Cesar Rull



Joined: 08 Sep 2012
Posts: 317
Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

um... I understand but I cant visualize it. I don't have a dial indicator.
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Matt Dixon



Joined: 21 May 2007
Posts: 588
Location: United States, California, Norcal

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No the bearings will not fall out.

Easy chk for axle str8ness is to look through it while you spin it. It will be easy to see

Remove axle out the engine side and install from engine side.
If bent slightly, loose cassettes will allow it out.
If bent bad, heavy rubber mallet will do it.
If BENT! A sawzall is always in my trailer.
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Matt Dixon
94y Energy Corse/Swedetech
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Cesar Rull



Joined: 08 Sep 2012
Posts: 317
Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

True, I got a makita my dad left me !!! hopefully ill never use it haha, not on my kart.

What you are saying about looking through it make sense. I will try tomorrow.
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jeff grose



Joined: 11 Dec 2008
Posts: 1252
Location: United States, Florida, cocoa

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cesar

Remove the 6 set screws from from the bearings, (3 on each bearing) there should NOT be set screws on the middle bearing, just in case there are, remove them too, loosen the brake hub and the sprocket hub, spray the entire axle with WD40, with all that done, have another person hold the chassis while you use a LARGE RUBBER mallet to knock the axle through the bearings, if the axle binds up moving through the bearing stop and move to the opposite side and hit it back through that way, now sometimes the axle could have some burrs on the axle where the set screws tighten into the axle and those can bind the axle as it goes through the bearing, if you can see where those spots are, you can take a flat fine tooth file and clean up those spots, then spray more WD40, as you work the axle through the bearings you can remove the sprocket and brake hubs, also have the other person holding the chassis help hold the axle as it come through, oh, i forgot, make sure the bearing cassettes are tightened in place in their hangers before trying to remove the axle, no need to loosen the screw holding the bearing itself in the cassette, when the axle is out then you can loosen and remove the bearing cassettes, if you have a good flat surface you can roll the axle there and see if it's bent, if not, clean the axle good with WD40 and fine sandpaper before reinstalling, make sure you have the bearing cassettes installed and tight before installing the axle, the more you have to remove an axle the easier it becomes, if the axle is bent and trust me you will know it's bent you may have to simply cut the axle with a saws-all to remove the axle, and that's no fun
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jlgracing
#31 Gillard/PDBAmerica
IAME Leopards by P1 Engines
Tag Sr./FKCS/WKA
Driver: Jesse Grose
Remember: "No matter where you go,there you are"
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Matt Dixon



Joined: 21 May 2007
Posts: 588
Location: United States, California, Norcal

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

See there is many different options.
I always loosen everything and almost never take a mallet to it.

I tear down the rear end after every track weekend to clean and inspect.
The key is to have a baby ass smooth surface on axle (wetsand with wd40/320) and inside bearings, rotor and sprocket carrier. (I use a 2
1/2" flappy sandpaper wheel on a drill for my 50mm stuff.

An axle change (unbent) should take 10/15 minutes

Another tip- zipties the brakes on tight holding rotor and axle slides right out.
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Matt Dixon
94y Energy Corse/Swedetech
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Cesar Rull



Joined: 08 Sep 2012
Posts: 317
Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks guys,

yeah I have to look over the brake disk tomorrow to see how it get held in place. As or right now I have removed the caliper so that disk is kind if floating on its own attached to the axle.

I am sure this axle has never been taken out. Not by crg since they sold the chassis after the race and the guys who I bought it from since he was not a racer I am sure he did not bother.
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Matt Dixon



Joined: 21 May 2007
Posts: 588
Location: United States, California, Norcal

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If thats the case, when you reinstall the axle line the indents from the setscrews on the axle in the bearing hole. That way you won't make multi indents which makes removal harder.
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Matt Dixon
94y Energy Corse/Swedetech
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Brian Degulis



Joined: 13 Aug 2012
Posts: 454
Location: United States, Florida,

PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finished

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jeff grose



Joined: 11 Dec 2008
Posts: 1252
Location: United States, Florida, cocoa

PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks good but is it fast>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


oh by the way, Tampa area ?

I used to live in Brandon
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jlgracing
#31 Gillard/PDBAmerica
IAME Leopards by P1 Engines
Tag Sr./FKCS/WKA
Driver: Jesse Grose
Remember: "No matter where you go,there you are"
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