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Joe Ricard
Joined: 23 Jun 2009
Posts: 882
Location: United States, Mississippi,
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 Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 7:54 am Post subject: |
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Mike is "smoches" a technical term?
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Mike Goebel
Joined: 28 Jul 2001
Posts: 5795
Location: United States, California, Winnetka
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| Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 8:14 am Post subject: |
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| Joe Ricard wrote: | | Mike is "smoches" a technical term? |
Yes I was hoping that the high level terminology didn't go over anyone's head 
Mike G.
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Tim Doll
Joined: 18 Jul 2001
Posts: 2646
Location: United States, Washington,
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| Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 10:49 am Post subject: |
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I'd suggest bead blasting (tiny glass beads) rather than sand blasting. Not only does bead blasting avoid the rough surface Mr. Helmet noted, it's less likely to add/change local stresses in the frame.
Tim
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Brian Degulis
Joined: 13 Aug 2012
Posts: 454
Location: United States, Florida,
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| Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 1:32 pm Post subject: |
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you've got to blast with the right abrasive. Very fine for a kart frame that gives you a surface that's about like 400 grit paper. That will get you a good tooth but won't require a big build up of coating to be smooth. BTW never blast the floor pan it's to thin you'll distort it.
Floor pan and seat are ready assembly this weekend!!!
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Chris Reinhardt
Joined: 29 Aug 2002
Posts: 2954
Location: United States, New York, Ossining
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| Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 3:59 pm Post subject: |
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| Brian Degulis wrote: | | you've got to blast with the right abrasive. Very fine for a kart frame that gives you a surface that's about like 400 grit paper. That will get you a good tooth but won't require a big build up of coating to be smooth. BTW never blast the floor pan it's to thin you'll distort it. |
Exactly.... If it's been powder coated prior, some guys will chemical strip first, then blast. Mike, that's probably why it came out rough, they went with an aggressive media to strip the old Powder off it... They even have fillers and primers that work with powder coating.....
BTW anybody on the East coast, I would suggest Anthony Brothers Powder Coating: http://www.anthonybrospowdercoating.com/
Jim does excellent work, and is very, very reasonable....
CR
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Scott Heavin
Joined: 18 Oct 2006
Posts: 1766
Location: United States, Indiana, New Castle
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| Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 3:30 am Post subject: |
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Sprayed mine with truck bed liner. It's at least as tough as powdercoat, if not tougher. It does come out a little rough, but a quick sanding with some 400 grit smooths it out and makes it easier to clean.
Unfortunately, most paints nowadays just flat out suck becasue of all the new environmental regs. Especially rattlecan paints.
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Brian Degulis
Joined: 13 Aug 2012
Posts: 454
Location: United States, Florida,
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| Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 4:45 am Post subject: |
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Yeah spray bombs aren't very good. The problem I see is that karts are normally done with automitve paint and it's just not adequete on a kart that's going to to be wiped with cleaning solvents stepped on etc. As I said earlier marine and industrial coatings like Awlgrip work very well in all respects.
Brian |
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Chris Reinhardt
Joined: 29 Aug 2002
Posts: 2954
Location: United States, New York, Ossining
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| Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 5:36 pm Post subject: |
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Brian, that stuff sounds like a great find, but you have to be careful where you spray it, and use a good respirator also... I'm guessing you don't live in California, if they caught you, they would just shoot you!!!
And your neighbors must love you!!!!
CR
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jeff grose
Joined: 11 Dec 2008
Posts: 1252
Location: United States, Florida, cocoa
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| Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 5:47 pm Post subject: |
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He even painted the seat 
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Mike Goebel
Joined: 28 Jul 2001
Posts: 5795
Location: United States, California, Winnetka
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| Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 5:57 pm Post subject: |
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| Chris Reinhardt wrote: | I'm guessing you don't live in California, if they caught you, they would just shoot you!!!
CR |
That's not true, we don't have any guns!!!!
Mike G.
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Chris Reinhardt
Joined: 29 Aug 2002
Posts: 2954
Location: United States, New York, Ossining
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| Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 8:17 pm Post subject: |
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| Mike Goebel wrote: | That's not true, we don't have any guns!!!!
Mike G. |
I'm sorry, they would just Rodney King you.....
CR
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Jason Bane
Joined: 01 Aug 2009
Posts: 282
Location: United States, Alabama, Gadsden
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| Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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| Look into DuraCoat. It is ultra tough, very durable, and resists chemicals used to clean firearms (similar to brake cleaner). I did a frame with it last year, turned out great. I will likely refinish my current kart over the winter. |
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Brian Degulis
Joined: 13 Aug 2012
Posts: 454
Location: United States, Florida,
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 5:34 am Post subject: |
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| Chris Reinhardt wrote: | Brian, that stuff sounds like a great find, but you have to be careful where you spray it, and use a good respirator also... I'm guessing you don't live in California, if they caught you, they would just shoot you!!!
And your neighbors must love you!!!!
CR |
I live in FL where we shoot back.
BTW Mineral spirts is a great alternative to brake cleaner. It cleans just as well leaves no residue and it's easier on you and your paint a lot cheaper also. You can't get it in spray cans but a chemical resistant spray bottle works great.
Brian |
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Cesar Rull
Joined: 08 Sep 2012
Posts: 317
Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 4:13 pm Post subject: |
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^ that right, you do live in FL. (I looked at the lake behind your house and the palms.)
So where do you live so I come over and help you (and you can help me) paint my fame !! 
I am trying to figure out how to remove the rear axle....
I noticed the cassette is sort of like a clamp, I guess that is how it attaches to the bearing. Then the bearing's inner race seems to be attached to the axle with some set screws.
so if I want to remove the axle, I am thinking I should assemble everything back to the chassis and remove the setscrews I mentioned and start tapping the axle from one end of the kart through each cassette? or is there a better way to do this?
My motivation for wanting to paint the chassis, the previous user scraped the bottom bare to the metal in some areas and I am worried about it rusting and they getting all messed up and having to buy a new frame. (considering I just bought this kart as my first kart) |
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Scott Heavin
Joined: 18 Oct 2006
Posts: 1766
Location: United States, Indiana, New Castle
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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| Cesar Rull wrote: | ^ that right, you do live in FL. (I looked at the lake behind your house and the palms.)
So where do you live so I come over and help you (and you can help me) paint my fame !!
I am trying to figure out how to remove the rear axle....
I noticed the cassette is sort of like a clamp, I guess that is how it attaches to the bearing. Then the bearing's inner race seems to be attached to the axle with some set screws.
so if I want to remove the axle, I am thinking I should assemble everything back to the chassis and remove the setscrews I mentioned and start tapping the axle from one end of the kart through each cassette? or is there a better way to do this?
My motivation for wanting to paint the chassis, the previous user scraped the bottom bare to the metal in some areas and I am worried about it rusting and they getting all messed up and having to buy a new frame. (considering I just bought this kart as my first kart) |
Pretty much. It's usually easier to remove the axle while the cassettes are attached to the frame. Make sure you loosen all the set screws - including the rotor carrier and water pump pulley (just remove the sprocket carrier if it's outboard). I always like to lube the axle to help it through the bearings. Then gently tap it out. That's the ideal method. I've had to use a 5 lbs. sledge to get axles out before. I mean like take a full swing & beat the crap out of it while someone else holds the kart on the stand. Just depends...
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