Ibea slide carb settings

João Costa · Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 3:42 pm Post subject: Ibea slide carb settings

Anyone knows the "recomended" pop off pressure for one of this?

i have set it at 0,9bar - 0,55bar(after discharge)

when i used for the first time, i used: 0,65bar-0,55bar and the engine doesn't start well, low maximum rpm's and can't do the carburettion right

do you agree with these?

KURT RODGERS · Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 5:13 pm Post subject:

welcome Joao
I hope this will get you question answered easier.
For the USA viewers:
.9bar =13.05psi
.55 bar = 7.97psi
.65 bar = 9.42psi
I do not know if these settings are good for that carb.
I am sure someone else will help
I used "google translator" to help you with my question
I hope you can respond in English for us
please excuse if translation is poor / incorrect.

What model Ibea is the carb? (O modelo é o Ibea carb)
Is this a carb you have had or a new one? (É este um carburador você teve ou um novo?)
Has anyone altered the internal passages different from the manufactures original sizes? (Alguém já alterou as passagens internas diferentes dos tamanhos originais fabrica?)
What type of Motor is this used on? (Que tipo de motor é este utilizado em?)
What are the typical needle adjustments? (Quais são os ajustes típicos de agulhas?)

João Costa · Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 1:28 am Post subject:

hi kurt

yes, i know all the convertions you mentioned below.

and you can always talk to me in english

And respond your questions:

- The carb is: ibea slide carb(i think this is the model) doesn't any engraved code like the others;

- the carb is used, bought it from a person who really didn't know how this works;

- i don't think, seems original on the inside;

- i use this carb on a TM K12, 100cc, rotary valve, water cooled

- the typical setting i think it's 1+1/4 on the low jet and 1 turn on the high jet

João Costa · Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 3:24 pm Post subject:

Anyone?

119 persons saw this , come on guys, give your opinion

Oscar Aguilera · Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 1614

way way back in the day when i had an ibea....it was a 3 jet...

regardless...the way i set then up was 12# pop off...i used to set the bottom at 1.5 turns out...and the top would be at about 1/4 - 1/2 put with the high (3rd) needle at about 1/4 to 1/8...

it worked for me and the higher pressure meant you ran a fatter bottom with more turns out...i dont know all the mechanics but if you run around 9# your bottom is at 1 & 1/4 tp 1 & 1/8 or less...pretty much the higher the pop off the higher turns needed on the bottom.

if you go with todays leopard settings that will get you ball park needles and pop off

if you have alot of experience with direct drive or a rotary motor...you can close the top completely after running and go from low revs to when it starts to pull...if it hesistates you need to open the needle...it it pulls you are alright...then open the top needle to about 1 &1/2 after you go down the straight...turn it in till it stops 4 stroking....a egt will help you alot...i have other tricks for that if you have one.

good luck...a fresh plug will keep your from pushing too far....and a clean carb is a must...clean piston helps...

im am sure a motor builder could help more than myself...im just a jock who had to figure it out...with help from motor builders.

every carb is a little different and noone runs that stuff any more...prime the carb before you start pushing!!!!

just my opinion

João Costa · Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 2:54 pm Post subject:

oscar, are you talking about an slide or butterfly carb?
i think they use differente pop off pressure and jet settings, i think, not sure

when you say bottom, it's low jet, right?

so, do you think i have to change the spring to adjust to a 12# pop off?
i have several springs with different weight, i can try that.

And for what i understand with your statement is, higher pressure, less turns on the jet's? or this only apllies to the low jet?

what do you mean with prime the carb?

thanks for the advice on starting a 100cc rotary valve Wink

Oscar Aguilera · Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 1614

i had a slide...butterfly and slide stuff is about the same settings either way.

bottom is the low needle...top is the high needle...if you have a 3rd needle that is the tube that mists in the center of the venturi.

12# means that the low needle will need more turns out than a setting of a lower # spring....i assume you have a pop off gauge?

higher # means that the top needle and the high needle will have less turns out than when you run a lower # setting.

prime the carb by making sure you have fuel up to the carb...no air in the fuel line.

you can change springs or sometimes double them up if they are too soft to get to 12#....however you can get there.

actually i looked at my notes today and i set the bottom at 2 turns out not 1.5....sorry. at 10# i have run 1.5 - 1.75.

if you are going to want to go with your settings that you posted at 1.25 on the low and 1 on the high...i would put 9# for your pop off.

it just comes down to my settings were where the guys that helped me liked to run there carb....it seemed to work better on the track and the motor stayed cooler without over heating....that was before we had water cooled.

Oscar Aguilera · Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 1614

ok...i looked up your motor...it is water cooled...

i would suggest the 9# -10# on the pop off...1.25 on the low....1 on the top...1/4 on the 3rd needle if you have one.

you should start the motor on the stand and warm up the engine till the water is about 110 at least...then turn the motor off and set the kart on the ground.

dont rev the crap out of the motor when it is on the stand....and yes every idiot does that and it is not good for the engine....lightly rev it and warm it up...it is starting to get cool...so make sure your radiator is about 1/2 covered with tape...that you can take off if needed....or if you have the sliding cover that you can put down after you get running then that willl help.

dont cold sieze your motor! these settings should get you in the ball park...you can fine tune on the track....if you are just practicing....turn the top needle in only if it 4 cycles before the end of the straight....then just go in by 1/8 of a turn at a time....keep your water around 135ish...your head temp should be around 165- 170ish...about 30degrees hotter than the water.

if you have a long straight and hard on the brakes...keep the carb right on the edge of 4 cycling....dont lean it too much....if you lean it to the edge you will have to reach over and choke off the carb to get some fuell in it while you brake of just before....it is a lot to do and a lot to keep track of.

if you have an egt gauge and you are just practicing...you should see 1200 right before you brake for the corner only at the end of the longest straight.

like i said ....it is a lot to do and now you know why TAG is much easier on the driver...

dont know the rev limit for your motor....but we used to get 19000 no prob....

we used to run 6oz castor to 1 gallon race fuel....it is a rotary so you have to run castor imo

good luck!

Oscar Aguilera · Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 1614

oh yea....make sure your chain is good...aligned and not binding...your sprocket is straight and aligned with your motor...

if you throw a chain it usually takes the carb with it....and ruins the side cover and or carb....

dont hang a wheel on the motor side!!!!

João Costa · Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 6:56 am Post subject:

how do you advise for cleaning the piston?

right now i'm using oil mixture, 16:1, why do you less than that?
and do you advise castor because of what?

Oscar Aguilera · Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 1614

i used shell super m when it was available,,but the castrol R castor kept the piston and ring in better shape for longer periods of time.

dont remember me telling you to keep the piston clean...but i did remove the head and use carb clean and a rag to knock off any carbon build up from the castor after each race day...and inspect the piston and ring for wear.

in the yamaha direct drive stuff i used blendzall mixed 3oz castor with 30z synthetic...because my motor builder said to???

basically synthetic will produce a cleaner burn and an apparent less friction...but for the ring to seat and build max compression you need castor....always for break in even if you use synthetic to race.

that is pretty much the rule on all 2/ motors for racing.

the higher amount of oil you put in the gas the leaner you are running it...there is less fuel.

some guys ran as much as 9oz but i never did. when i ran up to 8oz the motor seemed flat...so i went to 6oz and stuck to castor and dealt with the extra effort to keep the piston clean. it ran better for me and most motor builders agreed to tell me to run the motors this way...even in the 125 shifter stuff...unless the oil was a spec item.

at 19000 + rpm these little things become a more crititcal for the driver to beware of...the bearing need lube and they need to be kept in tip top shape with maintenance done before it blows or you will most likely destroy the motor and make yourself a nice piece of artwork that has become a paper weight

just my opinion

Jim Russell, Jr. · Advertiser Joined: 03 Oct 2001 Posts: 1535

ibea carbs always are setup best at
.8bar pop
.50 bar hold

Needle settings are usually
L range of 1.0 to 1.3 turns out
H range of 1.0 to 1.3 turns out
power jet (if equipped) .2 to .4 turns out

When starting the engine turn power jet completely closed to 0.

I have all of the service parts in stock if you need anything later. Ibea importer for 30+years.

Jim jr.
_________________
Russell Karting
888-KARTING

Jason Gaikhorst · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 5

can the ibea slide be modified to add a third jet as currently i have a 29mm slide 2jet?

sorry for hijacking your thread.

Jim Russell, Jr. · Advertiser Joined: 03 Oct 2001 Posts: 1535

It can be. However the 2 jet models are built to cover the rpm range with just 2 jets. The 3 jet models are made differently and require the 3rd jet to function correctly.

Jim jr.
_________________
Russell Karting
888-KARTING