Reglassing a seat--- Updated with Pics

Walt Gifford · Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 7:36 pm Post subject:

Yeah that's broke out all along the front. Had the same thing happen on a Tillet. You can glue and glass it but it'll likely just keep cracking there. It's also ruptured pretty much all the way around, not good if you hit something else. Comet sells seats for about $100.

Best thing I ever saw done to a seat was a piece of aluminum sheet metal bent around the bottom that was pop riveted front and back, it was probably glued in places too. If you're going to keep that seat I'd try something like that.

I've seen guys that ran brake rotors with every bay broke out. I'd never do it but I've seen it. Check the brake hub for cracks.

Gif Cool

_________________
FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician
Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001
Yamaha KT100 Service Center
40 years karting experience

Tom Rickard · Joined: 01 Apr 2008 Posts: 56

If you can find some 2" kevlar tape (might have to look for a sailing shop), that is a great way to repair that sort of damage. Just rough up the front of the flat part of the seat, and lay the tape across and glue it with resin.

The kerbs won't rip into the kevlar like they will into glass (they don't use it in bullet proof vests for nothing!)

In any case, if you are using glass mat, or kevlar or glass tape, lay it on a plastic sheet, and paint the resin directly onto the repair patch. Then lift the entire repair and lay it in place. This helps to prevent using too much resin.

Oscar Aguilera · Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 1614

im impressed you run yamaha pipe!

for that class we needed a flexy seat so if it did wear a hole...the number plate did the trick

i can appreciate doing it right...and it also being a tech issue.

so in my opinion...from your photo. the motor side tab under the seat is under stress. and it is binding your seat.

you should ben the tab to be parallel to the seat bottom then add the spacer...washers . the bolt should go through seat and through the seat mounting tab as the same angle....90 degrees. you probably have hung a wheel on one part of the track on a right hander...or there is a rumble strip type curbing you are going over that is on a right hander? because your seat...chassis and rotor all have evidence of that.

i would raise the seat about an 1/8...the only other thing is you seat my be mounted with a slight tilt to the left...which happens if you dont keep you seat flat when you angle it for the motor side.

so you could have you seat mounted a little better. you might also find that the side seat stays (mounting points) are binding the seat together and not spaced correctly and that is why your seat dips on the left.

just check it out...kinda hard for me to tell unless you take a pic from the back so i can see the axle compared to the seat back.

i have a hunch,,,but cant be sure

Sean Kisselbach · Joined: 04 Feb 2012 Posts: 18

Well you are spot on man! The corner i went off on is a tight right hander off the smaller of the two straightaways. I dropped the left rear and slid down the rumble strips like it was ice. Here is a picture of the rear of the kart from about 6 months ago. I haven't changed any parts on the kart since then that would make a difference. If you would like a more recent pic please tell me and i would be happy to take one. Why are you impressed that i run yamaha pipe? Im not trying to be a snob but more so someone still kinda new and i don't fully understand the compliment.

Oscar Aguilera · Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 1614

im impressed because that class is non existent down here and it was highly competitive and with all the tags/rotax i didnt know there was still a class else where.

it looks like your seat is tilted down on the left but with the bumper and the angle of the pic i dont think i can fairly say that is what i see.

i would need a pic from the back level with the axle so i could see the seat top compared to the axle. it should be level.

what weight do you run that class at? back when we didnt run so much plastic we ran at 320# and that was a lite wt...yamaha medium as at 350.

Sean Kisselbach · Joined: 04 Feb 2012 Posts: 18

I will get a pic like that soon. We have one class all of which are 360lbs if you have the new style head and 385 if you have the old style head. We also have to run the same tires, pipe, fuel and flex. Two weekends ago was our last race and we had 7 running in the class. It it usually between 6 and 12 karts.

Oscar Aguilera · Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 1614

basically i had a straight edge i put across the top of the seat and i made surr it was level to the axle.

even if the seat is cocked to the motor side the seat should still be level....bottom flat...no pinching of the side seat stays...just snug enough not to fall out. you also have to twist the seat stays to match the angle of the seat so that the side mounts are flat and flush to the seat.

and my straight edge was a metal ruler that is 4 feet long....not the flexy kind...whatever you use has to be rigid.

Walt Gifford · Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:04 pm Post subject:

Your seat doesn't have to be perfectly straight or square. It has to be way off before you notice it.

Gif Cool

_________________
FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician
Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001
Yamaha KT100 Service Center
40 years karting experience

Oscar Aguilera · Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 1614

i like my $hit done right.

Sean Kisselbach · Joined: 04 Feb 2012 Posts: 18

Walt Gifford · Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 10:13 am Post subject:

Oscar Aguilera · Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 1614

very funny walt...that was a temp fix until you got a new seat...and even with a hole...it has to be mounted correctly.

how can you even put on here that something DOESNT have to be perfect....when peeps are worried about 2mm toe in or out?

geez Laughing

and you learn over the years!!

Mike Svorinich

chad lee · Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 8:26 am Post subject:

I would seriously consider adding a layer of kevlar (5-9 oz) to the bottom. Start by adding a layer of 3/4 oz mat, kevlar, 3/4 oz mat and cloth (6-10 oz). I use kevlay layered into the bottom and sides where seat mounts in the carbon fiber seats I build it keeps the botom from getting blown out in case it happens again. Polyester resin will be sufficient...I have used polyester, vinylester, and epoxies for ages and most all seats are polyester anyways. If you can't find any kevlar PM me... I have plenty as well as the other materials but you can find mat and cloth at Lowes. Good Luck!
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