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Rotax will not turn over after connecting switches wrong
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andy graham



Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 126
Location: United States, Florida, Jax

PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you're both right now that I think about it....if the engine wont turn over the cdi and coil have nothing to do with that, those kick in once the ignition system has done it's job...you've got a dead motor, so start with the ignition system and a voltage meter...you go Joe!
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Joe Ricard



Joined: 23 Jun 2009
Posts: 882
Location: United States, Mississippi,

PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok put my meter on wires and found power where I should, compared it to my son's mini max and it all jived. swapped motors and mini max would not turn over (dang it). Max motor started on son's cadet chassis. Well that's a good thing as it won't cost me cubic rotax dollars to fix.

swapped harneses after metering out all wires from my kart which checked out good. Hmm put harness on cadet with max motor cranked fine.

swapped batties my kart to cadet Wala no crank. swapped my spare battery wala no crank. back to Cadet battery brand new cranked fine.


Muther Effin crappy Sonic power batteries. both read 12.5 volts but won't turn the starter. Both showed green light on rotax wall charger and my sears big charger.

Going to take them to Auto parts store and have load tested and then throw in the trash.

Batteries seem to be our general consensus Nemisis.
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Anthony Burke



Joined: 19 Mar 2011
Posts: 22

PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 2:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Um, 12.5v is more or less dead as far as your battery is concerned. Should be upwards of 13v (at 12.8 you should be getting worried).
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Joe Ricard



Joined: 23 Jun 2009
Posts: 882
Location: United States, Mississippi,

PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 4:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome Thanks Anthony.

I am getting smarter every day because of this place. Now to learn how to drive.

I left the batteries at the FLAPS when I went to get something else.
(Friendly Local Auto Parts Store). they dispose of them safely.
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Nick Weil



Joined: 18 Jul 2001
Posts: 1800
Location: United States, Florida, Orlando, FL US of A

PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

12.5 isn't a problem, but it does mean your battery is likely not fully charged...

The problem you'll have is that a CHEAPER battery has inferior plates that cannot tolerate the vibration and so they crack. If you actually put the voltmeter on the battery while you crank it, you will likely see the voltmeter go from 12v-13v to 10v or even 0v. This is because once energized and loaded, the inferior plates are acting almost like a breaker switch and lose connection. If the plate crack is REALLY bad, you won't even get a click on the starter.

A GOOD battery may drop to between 10 and 11 volts when the starter button is pressed, but will rapidly jump back up when the button is released.
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Nick Weil
Authorized Rotax Service Center and Dealer since 2002
2004 Team USA Rotax Worlds Finals DD-2 Driver


Want to save money AND grow the economy? www.fairtax.org
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Nick Weil



Joined: 18 Jul 2001
Posts: 1800
Location: United States, Florida, Orlando, FL US of A

PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also Chris, based on the fact that you have a 'cracked' exhaust pipe, I would guess that your engine/battery has been subjected to a LOT of viration from it's previous owner. That will cause you battery problems and starter brush problems. Depending on how old the motor is, there is supposed to be a stater support ring on the starter. Not having that can certainly exacerbate the problems you have mentioned.
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Nick Weil
Authorized Rotax Service Center and Dealer since 2002
2004 Team USA Rotax Worlds Finals DD-2 Driver


Want to save money AND grow the economy? www.fairtax.org
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andy graham



Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 126
Location: United States, Florida, Jax

PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

experienced that exact thing Nick...voltage was 13.2v on the meter, hit the start switch and it dropped to 11.0....never turned anything over or even clicked....let off the start button and right back to 13v...picked up a new battery with a little more amps, hopefully it will last a little longer at the track...
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Joe Ricard



Joined: 23 Jun 2009
Posts: 882
Location: United States, Mississippi,

PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All 3 of my Yuasa batteries now charged to 13.6v

one for my kart
one for my son
and one spare.

also getting a CTEK charger.
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Todd Renaud



Joined: 21 Oct 2001
Posts: 206
Location: United States, Texas, San Antonio, TX

PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe Ricard wrote:
also getting a CTEK charger.


Which one are you getting?
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Joe Ricard



Joined: 23 Jun 2009
Posts: 882
Location: United States, Mississippi,

PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Todd Renaud wrote:
Joe Ricard wrote:
also getting a CTEK charger.


Which one are you getting?


CTEK US 800
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