KT100 Tuning

Bill Faulk · Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 10:28 am Post subject: KT100 Tuning

First off very new to karting. I have an Emmick kart with a KT100. I am looking for any books or DVD with helpful information on how to tune my engine. I have a digitron DT50 meter with CHT, EGT, TAC, and speed. for starters what temps are normal and what temps are going to destroy my engine?
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-Bill

TJ Koyen · Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 3:17 pm Post subject:

What class are you running?
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T.J. Koyen
OKTANE VISUAL - Custom Helmet Paint & Graphic Design
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DB Motorsports
Exprit/Leopard

Bill Faulk · Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 4:18 pm Post subject:

I am not sure what class my Kart fits into as i just getting into karts. i have an RLV 3 pipe(it has 3 holes). i assume me and kart are around 300lb? 86tooh sprocket (What was on it when i bought it) a L&T wet clutch, no front brakes, 101 octane fuel with Castor927@ 6-7oz per gallon.
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-Bill

John Mulvihill · Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:55 pm Post subject:

Hi Bill,

One of the next steps is to figure out where you are going to race and get a copy of their rules which will cover fuels, oils, engine specs, weights, tires, etc, etc......

That should answer half of your questions.

The next thing is to send many hours on this and other web sites using "search". Virtually EVERY question concerning Yamaha's has been answered on this site, if you know where to look.

RLV 3 pipe with 3 holes? Is that actually a 3 hole "can" (looks like a coffee can with three outlets)? If so, that is a Junior can and not actually a "3" pipe which is something different.

Got any pics of the carb and exhausst? If so we can leap in and help more.

Also, where are you located? maybe we can hook you up with a mentor or a good shop.

John
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I bowl overhand..........

al nunley · Joined: 13 Nov 2006 Posts: 3030

I cringe when people first get into this sport. There is so much to learn, and the learning curve is almost vertical for the first few months. I believe there may be just as many people that don’t know, that do.
Where in California are you, maybe someone knows of a near by shop you could go to and learn some stuff. It would be great if you could find friends to hang out with at the track. Maybe not take your kart at all, just hang out and absorb what people are doing.
Like that 101 octane fuel. If you do have a “can” exhaust, there’s no need for that. It wouldn’t hurt anything, just an extra expense for no gain. Go to Wiki Pedia on line and read up on Octane.
Go to Muller.com and read up on all the stuff he has there. Real good information on a lot of things.
CHT 400 degrees. Just a guide.
RPM 13,000. More or less.
Watch the RPM’s coming off a tight turn. If you do have a “Can” exhaust, the tack should be reading about 8200 RPM. A little higher, or lower, doesn’t hurt anything, you just go slower.
EGT?? As long as it doesn’t go up and then drop down, you’re OK. Confusing I know.
If you ever hear something that sounds like a rock rattling around in the engine or exhaust, that’s detonation, and that’s bad. It means the mixture is too lean.
Post a picture, it will help a lot.
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If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
All else being equal; Compression is the Holy Grail.
45 years, in and around karting

Bill Faulk · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 11:28 am Post subject:

These aren't the greatest but i can get more soon it just what i already have taken.
I am Running in Northern CA. Prairie City WKA rules and Davis which i believe is IKF
I have the WKA rule book for 2012.
For now I am trying to get myself around the track with out breaking anything as i have already cooked the clutch on this kart 3 times. ($150 each repair)
Kartel has done the repairs and set the clutch engagement each time. I changed oil in clutch every time back off the track in the pit.
I have 2 shops "near" me Kartel and Swedetech.
I will ad pics of carburetor but for now i believe it to be a Walbro carb
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-Bill

al nunley · Joined: 13 Nov 2006 Posts: 3030

Bill Faulk · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 3:22 pm Post subject:

I am out of the Rocklin Roseville area. Kartel set the clutch at 8900. I'll try setting it at 8000. I'll be out at prairie city on Tuesday. Pipe/can says RLV 3.
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-Bill

TJ Koyen · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 5:07 pm Post subject:

Pipe is the HPV/KPV 3 pipe from the looks of it. Out west they've started running the Yamaha with that pipe I believe.

Al's right, there's lots to learn, but a ton of it is pretty unimportant as a novice. You just want to get out to the track and make sure nothing breaks or falls off. The best way to would be to get some local help with some guys and just maybe get a checklist set up with the Kartel guys of things to do on raceday/practice to get the kart going with no issues.

Not familiar with tuning on that particular engine setup, so can't really help you there, but there should be plenty of guys at the local tracks who can help.
_________________
T.J. Koyen
OKTANE VISUAL - Custom Helmet Paint & Graphic Design
www.oktanevisual.com
www.facebook.com/oktanevisual
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DB Motorsports
Exprit/Leopard

Bill Faulk · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 5:23 pm Post subject:

Yes Im looking for some good safe baseline specs so I don't break anything or break my wallet.
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-Bill

Bill Faulk · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 5:54 pm Post subject:

Yes Im looking for some good safe baseline specs so I don't break anything or break my wallet.
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-Bill

John Mulvihill · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 6:32 pm Post subject:

Hi Bill,

What happened with the clutch? Loss of fluid?

John
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I bowl overhand..........

Bill Faulk · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 7:29 pm Post subject:

I wish I could say it was a loss of fluid however since the first time I toasted which was due to a lack of fluid. I check and change after every practice.(about 2-5 laps) If its not bright red I drain it and put all new fluid in. I am using the fluid from L&T. I've heard normal transition fluid works however with all my troubles I'm sticking to what the manual says.
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-Bill

Scott Formanek · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 8:17 pm Post subject:

if buck built your engine/carb, your base settings should be 1/8 to 1/4 on the high needle and 2.5 on the low speed needle as a base. if you need any one on one help at any of the local to sacramento tracks i offer services at a very reasonable price for full and half days. my # is 916-207-9006 if you are interested. good luck and and make sure to remember that the most important thing is to have fun, the rest will come with time.

Walt Gifford · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 9:18 pm Post subject:

I never knew how much heat a rookie driver can put into a clutch until I mentored a new guy last week. It got so hot the starter nut came off and the guts came off the taper. Thank goodness for the 3rd bearing arm. I fixed it and he drove faster and it was ok from there.

1st, set the clutch to the lowest stall setting possible as per the manual. The guy that rebuilt the clutch should have done this for you. 2nd, add lots of teeth to the rear gear to help you get above the stall speed of the clutch in the turns. Max 219 gear is about a 91 tooth. 3rd, when you leave the pits give it full throttle until you're up to speed then keep it up to speed and rolling through the turns as fast as you can.

If you find the engine revving too high at top end (15,000) you can open the main jet and it will go rich to govern the rpm.

Hope that helps,
Gif Cool

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FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician
Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001
Yamaha KT100 Service Center
40 years karting experience