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Engine Placement and Chain Length

 
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Ken Bailey



Joined: 27 May 2010
Posts: 102
Location: United States, Pennsylvania, Shavertown

PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 8:36 pm    Post subject: Engine Placement and Chain Length Reply with quote

I am fitting out a 2011 CRG Blackstar with a Yamaha KT100. I am finding however that in order to have the motor mount sit perfectly on the frame without hitting welds for the Nerf carrier or crossmember behind the seat, I have to move the motor forward more than I am used to. This in turn is requiring me to run a fairly long chain. Is there a best practice I should follow that would help determine a starting point? Perhaps distance between drive gear center and sprocket carrier center?

I am fearful that if the engine mount lifts the even the slightest bit on one of the welds it won't be true and would cause the drive sprocket to be slightly off.

The mount is a Burris 5 degree. The 12 degree mount puts less of the mount in contact with the frame so that could be a partial solution but it really only gives me another 3/8's
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Walt Gifford



Joined: 19 Jul 2002
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Standard length of 219 chain is 114 links, that's what I always use +or- a few if needed. That's with 10/86 gears.

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Patrick Roth



Joined: 22 Mar 2010
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Location: United States, Texas, Houston

PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I try to line up the center of the motor mount clamps with the cross brace between the two frame rails that the motor mount clamps two. This allows me the flexibility to move the motor forward and backwards as required. I run a leopard with 10/82 and use ~110-111 links of #219 chain.
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Tim Koyen
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Joined: 26 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walt Gifford wrote:
Standard length of 219 chain is 114 links, that's what I always use +or- a few if needed. That's with 10/86 gears.

Gif Cool


Thats alot of gear! Are you racing in a kiddie pool? Very Happy


There shouldn't be any problem using the full length of the chain. A good plan with non O-ring chains like DID is do your best pick on the gear, then use as much of the chain as you can. If you guessed to small on the gear, you can just change the gear. If you go ahead and shorten the chain right away, you may find yourself trying to add links back on, and that's not a "best practice", although it can be done. If you guessed to big, you can still easily shorten the chain to keep it "in the zone".
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Walt Gifford



Joined: 19 Jul 2002
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Location: United States, South Jerrrsey,

PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tim Koyen wrote:
Thats alot of gear! Are you racing in a kiddie pool? Very Happy


4 hole can, 1/2 mile track all intestines.


Gif Cool
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Ken Bailey



Joined: 27 May 2010
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Location: United States, Pennsylvania, Shavertown

PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the replies. I am starting with 10/80, and have the motor splitting the nerf brace so I can go forward or backward. It seems the nerf brace is just a bit forward of my old kart so it makes the motor seem like it is forward more than it should be. In reality, I put a new chain on and will probably have to shorten it by two links. Without counting, I would say I am at 112 links so am in the ball park by everyones comments.

Maybe the motor was actually furthur back on the old kart than normal and that is why I had a heck of time scaling up front.
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