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Weight reduction
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Tim Baynes



Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:24 am    Post subject: Weight reduction Reply with quote

Just got back from our first race ever. We had some glitches, and did not finish either race, but we learned alot, met nice people, and had fun.

Weighed in with nearly a full tank at race end (see above) at 420!

Clearly there is some opportunity there. I'm looking for suggestions on where to trim some weight. I'm on a loaner chassis (Rocket) with my own engines, so won't be looking to do anything with the chassis itself, for now. Everything else (seat, wheels, tires, etc) is fair game, starting with my own weight. I'm 6-3, about 210, and got down to 192 a couple years ago for biking. Obviously need to do that again but don't think I can hold a weight below 192-195.

Like to find another 8-10 lbs off the kart if I can. Realistic? Ideas?
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Craig Diller



Joined: 21 Sep 2006
Posts: 150
Location: United States, New York, Garden City

PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dont fill the talk all the way just put what you need to get through the race in it that should save you a pound or so
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jeff grose



Joined: 11 Dec 2008
Posts: 1249
Location: United States, Florida, cocoa

PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

what series are you running, SKUSA,WKA or local race????
What motor, Leopard,Rotax,Vortex?????
Is the Tag class Senior,Masters,Heavy????

more info needed to make a good recommendations
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Tim Baynes



Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeff grose wrote:
what series are you running, SKUSA,WKA or local race????
What motor, Leopard,Rotax,Vortex?????
Is the Tag class Senior,Masters,Heavy????

more info needed to make a good recommendations


I'm running in the MARRS series, road racing in the midwest. Leopard motor. Senior class (40+) but no Heavy available. The min weight for Senior class is 385.
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Jeff Salak



Joined: 01 Aug 2007
Posts: 624
Location: United States, Illinois, Antioch

PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my honest opinion being over weight in RR isnt that important. Not like sprint racing.

A couple things that may help you.

Try and drop 10#'s.
Try to finish race with as little fuel as you can.
Does your kart have front brakes? If so try and race without them.
Kart suit, helmet and gear can save weight too.
Finish each race for track time.
Learn to drive with a pack of karts, driving in the draft.
Make sure your geared right.
Keep corner speed and hit your marks.
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Tim Baynes



Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeff Salak wrote:
...

...
Keep corner speed and hit your marks.


Thanks for the advice Jeff. By "hit your marks" you mean braking points?
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Jeff Salak



Joined: 01 Aug 2007
Posts: 624
Location: United States, Illinois, Antioch

PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, Tim thats exactly what I meant.
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Chris Hurst



Joined: 27 Jul 2007
Posts: 570
Location: United States, California,

PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It would probably be easier to lose 8-10lbs from exercising. Walk before you eat in the morning. Your body will go straight for the fats but be careful not to exercise too hard without eating or your body will start eating muscle.
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Robby Mott
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Joined: 20 Aug 2001
Posts: 308

PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Order a lithium style battery...........the Rotax approved battery is about 5 pounds lighter than a standard battery.


Robby Mott
www.ribtect.com
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Curtis Cooksey
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Joined: 16 Aug 2001
Posts: 311

PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 10:54 am    Post subject: Lithium Battery Reply with quote

Here is a great Lithium Ion battery that will save you about 4.5lbs and is only $114.95 : http://www.accelerationkarting.com/shorailithiumbattery.aspx
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gregg boyce



Joined: 27 Jul 2004
Posts: 1143
Location: United States, Tennessee, nashville

PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since its a Leopard (and it isn't against the rules or they just don't check Wink ) You could take the battery completely off and if you're still not close enough take the guts out of the starter. That should net you 15-20lbs easy.

Mind you, if its against the rules for your club forget I said anything and start running.

GB
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Tim Baynes



Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2012 4:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good info, thanks for the battery tips, I'm on that. Not sure I want to run with no onboard start capability, but that's a fine idea if I can't get there otherwise.

Next question: I'm going to go ahead with a new enduro/rr chassis, since I' on a loaner now. Looking to be in one in the next couple months.

Obviously there are a host of factors involved in choosing a new frame, but put aside almost every consideration but this: which chassis mfrs offer the lightest 32mm TAG frames? Light, with reasonable reliability - I don't want the one that will last one year, but the next step in from that, let's say.

No one seems to publish weights on their product - what's up with that? Every other industry seems to do so (cars, bikes, sailboats, planes, etc etc).

Or to ask a slightly different question: if you were going to go build the lightest 32mm TAG you could, what are the major components you'd choose? My budget is whatever I make it - I have flexibility there.
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Scott Heavin



Joined: 18 Oct 2006
Posts: 1766
Location: United States, Indiana, New Castle

PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Honestly, you're just not going to find a whole lot of weight reduction in a kart. I'd just have to guess that if you went from a showroom stock kart to putting every weight saving, wallet crushing piece you could on it, shortening every bolt to minimum, drilling everything you could without compromising strength, you might get 10-12 lbs. off of it. At a cost of thousands.

Will it make a difference in your lap times? Yes. But your lap times will suffer more from that wheel you dropped or that apex you missed.

Until you're at that level where almost every competitor puts every wheel perfect in every turn of every lap, the weight won't hurt you near as much as your driving will.
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Patrick Hubbell



Joined: 22 Jul 2001
Posts: 2546
Location: United States, California, San Jose

PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look for a chassis that is made all from Chrome Moly or mostly. CTS is the only chassis made entirely of Chrome Molly. Right down to the pedals. CTS stopped making chassis' a while ago, there was an employee by the name of Ayal who took over. Don't know how to reach him. Northern Calif.
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Dan Schlosser



Joined: 25 Aug 2004
Posts: 684
Location: United States, Pennsylvania, Sewickley

PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Breadbox bodywork - not sexy but lighter than all the options. Worth 6-8 pounds on a Birel compared to the stock Freeline bodywork. Although for Road Racing the drag may offset the weight - need to talk to someone experienced in that area.

Carbon fiber Tillett seat - saves a pound plus and you have to buy a new seat with the kart anyway.

Carbon fiber floor pan - might have to get one handmade or there are some available already.

Magnesium components - RLV makes a very nice set of hubs and carriers that are pretty reasonable.

Lithium battery - Huge weight savings for cheap money and you probably end up with a better product to boot.

Suit & helmet - Suits can vary by 2-3 pounds, same with the helmets.

No graphics - Pick up a graphics kit still packaged and you'll be surprised how much weight they add. Again, not sexy but it really makes a difference.

In a Junior Yamaha kart we were able to shed 15 pounds utilizing many of the above methods and we didn't even have the luxury of the easy fix in the battery.
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